Bozz

Would you happen to be in Melb? I lost motivation but another person into electronics and cars would get me back on this project again. Got all the test tools here

Yup, all it does is adjusts the negative feedback to the lateral G-sensor. More negative feedback = less voltage swing from 2.5v at the output of the G-sensor = more 4WD goodness

I've also modified the standard G sensor to fix the shit handling of stock R32 GTRs as first described by our mate Mr Edgar in this excellent article: http://autospeed.com.au/cms/title_Godzilla-Tamed-/A_107753/article.html I pulled apart the G sensor, drew a circuit diagram and went from there. By increasing the bias to the front, my comments are the same as Julian's - the car is now a frighteningly quick, this mod alone is better than every other modification I've done to the car combined! At Sandown, go slow into any corner and put the foot down hard as you begin any turn - the car now stays glued to the track, no power oversteer at all. Too much front bias and it understeers a little under power, set it to your cars configuration and its just magic, the car is so much faster through and out of corners.... My top speed is about 20-25km/h faster down both straights after this mod I'll post what to do and photos soon.... I need to do a permanent install in my car, currently i've just got a wire coming out under the center console, soldered to a potentiometer.... looks nasty but works awesome as I was developing it. The mod is extremely simple - drill a hole in the top of the G sensor housing to run a two wires through and connect the two wires to a pot to adjust front bias.

What if the criminal was on an open country road without any approaching motorists or houses? http://www.theage.com.au/victoria/two-drivers-killed-after-police-pursuit-20120121-1qays.html If a hail of gunfire was opened upon the criminal above as soon as he fled, chances are we'd have another innocent human still alive with us and a strong message that fleeing police isn't the right thing to do. I'm not suggesting to use it in the suburbs. It wouldn't have been appropriate for the pursuit in the original post. Who cares about the tyre, shoot and shoot to kill, after all, these criminals are running around with what is practically a loaded weapon ready to kill a carload of innocent people. edit - If shooting isn't appropriate, run the criminal off the road into a tree/power pole/anything as we've seen the American police do. I have no sympathy for anyone trying to run from police because it seriously endangers the public. This certainly isn't something to do if you've been busted doing a crazy speed, however if you refuse to stop after the bluey's start chasing, it's fair game.

I have a different view. I believe any motorist trying to flee police in a motor vehicle, when safe for the rest of the public, should be stopped immediately by gunfire. Initially at the tyres, if they don't get the message, at the driver. If the driver has passengers, the cops should get closer before opening fire. Within weeks, police chases would become a thing of the past.

Are they at least 18" and 9.5 wide? Can't fit smaller wheels over my brakes. Cheers

Yes I have and now I'm playing with the settings to make the car behave. BTW, changing offset completely alters steering behaviour and feel. If you have five minutes to spare, read this http://www.hrsprings.com/technical/scrub_radius I have what I suspect to be the completely wrong offset for my suspension geometry so I'd like to try some other offsets before buying what could be the wrong choice of wheels.

I need to try bolt on wheels with different offsets to figure out what the hell's going on with my steering. With the wheels directly attached to the hubs, the scrub radius would have been close to zero or negative, now I'm probably too far into the positive. I've currently got 18x9.5 with +30 offset and that's making the steering pull hard whenever camber presents itself on the road. I attached 25mm bolt on spacers (so it makes the offset at +5) and that's greatly improved the steering. So yeah, I'd like to try the wheels and take my car for a short drive to see how it affects the steering behaviour to give me a better idea of what wheels to buy. I'll do all the swapping if the wheels are on your car. Cheers

These threads entertain me, A copper gets a shitcnt off the road, Many flame him for abuses of power he has no control over, But don't write to your MP. Don't do anything that could fix or improve the situation. Keep bitching on forums. Continue achieving nothing.

You're on a roll, I haven't even put any thought into it yet.... Great work!

Off the top of my head, dunno Are the coil packs exchangable between R33 S1 and S2? If so, the ignitor has been moved into the ECU and the same procedure will work. If not and the ignitor is in each coil, you'll need to apply a low current (perhaps 100-200mA, through something like a 47-100 ohm resistor, I don't know the correct amount) to the ignitor pin then remove it. Connecting the trigger pin to 12v will immediately destroy the coil pack if there's a transistor inside it.

I'm in two minds about a digital accelerometer - the R32 4WD system is well known to be shit on a track and all the aftermarket stuff does is feeds different signals into a slow and shitty controller to try make it less shit in some situations. An awesome project would be to replace the 4WD control system (leave the factory ECU doing ABS) with a MEMS accelerometer such as the ADXL335 coupled to an Arduino Duemilanove. $40 gets you the new sensor, new controller running at 16MHz and you can make it do whatever you want, track, drift, playstation But back on topic, it would be good to play with a broken sensor as it's unlikely all three axis are broken so I could spin it up and plot the force/voltage and pretty easily make a new unit with a MEMS accelerometer. After the design work, I reckon a replacement adjustable accelerometer could be manufactured for under $100..... Sent from my laptop using Firefox

Without seeing whats on the other side of the PCB, the underneath pictured is very simple - three quad op-amp chips taking input from what I'm assuming are the G sensors on the other side of the board. Surely someone has a crook one here in Melbourne that wants it fixed....

I adjusted the three factory stops, the ones the manual tells you not to touch, that brought my idle back down. Perhaps find the cost of a secondhand throttle body from a newish model GTR from the wreckers?

What coil packs out of what model and series car? Triggering them is different based on the packs If they dont have internal ignitors, 12v on one, Gnd on the other and the trigger pin needs to be pulled to ground for about 3 milliseconds (dwell time) to charge the coil pack. Once you remove the earth, it'll let out a spark. Don't leave the earth on too long or you'll fry the coil pack

I'm willing to do the same if someone has a 32GTR with this fault in Melbourne, I'll also investigate why the values are drifting to see if the root cause can be fixed.

Yep, could have been much worse, lucky I turned it off as quick as I did......

Yep, In line with the thread, I should post: Engine/Car: 1989 R32 GTR RB26DETT Type of failure: Broken oil pump. Factors influencing the failure: Right foot and rev limiter. State of tune of the engine: It's stock officer. Suspension and tyres: Meh. Oil used and service interval: Martini 10w50. Third oil change the day before engine failure. General comments: About 8-9,000km since I built the motor. High RPM, dropped the clutch, held it on the limiter until the car got to about 60km/h. Heard a tapping noise, pulled over and turned off the motor. Lifted the bonnet, thought something was hitting the fan, nothing obvious. Started the motor and heard a tapping noise from the bottom front, checked the dash and oil pressure was on zero, turned off the motor. Shit eh, called towie for a lift home.

RIP R32 RB26DETT. You provided me hundreds of memorable 4WD launches, many high speed track events, off street drag days and thousands of smiles from that angry bark and flames when I change gears at full noise. Fùck you to whoever designed this component:

I've had this in every 4WD R32 I've owned. If only intermittent, as in once every two hours on country highways at 100km/h, I wouldn't worry. To resolve it, for a split second, completely back off the throttle and come back on, the front torque will drop to zero. Been exactly the same for years, not getting better or worse. 4WD works fine when you need it. I find it happens when you hit a decent pothole, have power on as crossing train tracks or really bad surfaces. I live with it, for me it happens once every few weeks. I've done no diagnosis however I reckon its just the 4WD computer getting confused.

I'll start with I've never pulled down a gearbox but am interested to try and learn. The gearbox is OK and silent in all gears, the transfer case can always spin the fronts as well as the rears, but if you quickly put it into fifth at anything above about 80km/h, it'll crunch. It also won't go into fifth at over 140-150km/h, causing major suckage down the straights at Sandown. Would anyone have a diagnosis? Is pulling down a gearbox and checking/replacing synchro's and other parts a DIY job for someone who does practically all work on their car? If so, what should I know? If not, who should I take it to and what are the typical costs? If not again, do R32 GTR gearboxes often break or not, therefore I should chance it with a second hand box? Thanks

One more thing: God I hate pulling out the gearbox and the f'ing top starter motor bolt!

Thanks everyone. I bought an R34 RB26 from a VSpec. The only thing missing is the CAS as Beer Baron advised above. Are the R32 and R34 RB26 exhaust cams the same? Should I just swap them if they're the same, or get another CAS if they're different? Also, how do I identify if I've got factory or aftermarket cams? Cheers

Cool Just looking for the bare engine Will an r34 engine completely bolt up to all r32 intake, exhaust and accessories with no drilling, grinding, bending, welding, dremelling, bashing, kicking, praying and cutting? Thanks

Also, any difference between the v spec and non v spec versions of each? Thanks