Bozz

Sold mine for 9.5k after 6 months of advertising. Mine was absolutely showroom quality apart from one small scratch on the corner of the front bumper and had 103,000km and mine was 4WD, RB20DET, 4WS, ABS brakes, 4 piston front brakes, etc, the whole nine yards.

I had mine do that as well, when I started it, I stalled it almost immediately and then it started cranking but not a single sign of life - it was cranking very fast, not like when its starting up, it was cranking as if all spark plugs were removed and there was no compression. I ended up tearing my hair out until I unplugged the variable cam timing solenoid then it started cranking normally and fired after a few coughs and splutters, then I plugged the solenoid back in and all was well.

Whaddya mean, it took me 5 mins

Squeaking for a few seconds on startup means the fan/alternator belt is too loose. This is because the viscous clutch needs a short period of time to free itself and let the fan freespin without being locked to the pulley. It will squeak like buggery when the hot weather arrives and the viscous clutch decides it wants to lock up to drive the fan at full speed. Return it to the monkeys... umm mechanics that did the work and get them to tighten it a tiny bit. If they tighten it too much it will chew out your alternator and water pump bearings.

The GTS4 comes standard with 4 spot front brakes (well at least mine did) and I've driven both, owned a GTS4 for 3 years and driven various GTSt's over the time. In the dry, on the twisties, the GTSt's are slightly better. They are also slightly better on rolling start drags or overtaking due to less weight. For every other situation, the GTS4 absolutely OWNES the GTSt. Wet weather is so much better with the '4 as is any non tractable surface. I remember towing a bogged 60 series Landbruiser with my GTS4 I had to get him 10 meters and my car did it with style Now the brakes, oh god were the 4 piston calipers with ABS bloody good. Oh yeah, all GTS4's come with ABS standard, thats very well worth considering. Problem is, if you reef the handbrake on mid corner, the ABS unlocks the back wheels and 4WD engages trying to deliver identical torque to all wheels One thing I learned with the GTS4 is how to drift and stay safe. With the GTSt's it's easy to go too far and spin out, the GTS4 pulls power to the front wheels after you start drifting and you get such a wonderful sensation of drifting and knowing there's so much more room before you get to the limit. I had adjustable KYB suspension in my car and it handled brilliantly, better than most GTSt's but the GTS4 is front heavy and tends to understeer much more than the GTSt's if you aren't gently powering through the corner. Another great memory I have of the GTS4 is tying both towing hooks at the back of the car to a tree, putting some oil under all 4 tyres, in first, smoking them all up, almost redlining at 60km/h I pushed the cruise control button, opened the door, stepped out, took a photo of the car with all 4 smoking up, jumped back in and disabled cruise control I ended up selling the car, pretty much in perfect condition with 103,000km on it for $9500

There's no such thing as a "5 amp voltage drop" Its like saying your engine produces 500 newton meter kilowatts. If the car is sucking 5 amps of power when turned off then you have something draining the power. 5 amps at 12 volts is 60 watts so whatever it is should get pretty warm/hot. What you can do is selectively pull out fuses till the current stops being drawn then you can follow where that fuse goes and rectify the problem. Edit - doh! I didn't see the bit you had already pulled the fuses out In that case it should be dead easy to track where the short is, quite simply, the main power line from the battery goes to the fuse area to the mega sqaure loom above it and to the starter motor and alternator. Disconnect the last two and if it drops off, you've found your problem and ditto if it doesn't drop off.

Man, I've got no idea! Can you give me a bit of a hint where you put it? Might have to get you to install me one using your stealth techniques!

Make an offer, I'm not after much since it isnt perfect.

Has noisy input shaft bearing, noise almost completely goes away when box warms up. Comes with clutch fork and slave cylinder. Also have two piece tailshaft without the final part that bolts to the diff & rear unijoint. (should be able to get from wrecker and I can fit it for you) All gears work perfectly but like I said it has input shaft noise, first gear synchro is a bit stiff when cold and rolling while trying to put it into first, never crunches gears (unless you try to put it in reverse when moving ) Naturally fourth gear is quietest as its straight through I'm selling because I put the RB25DET box into my car Offers? It also comes with the crossmember to suit the Skyline

So long as your radiator end tanks are in good nick, a recore should cost in the order of $100 at any Mr Radiator place as long as you remove/refit the radiator yourself. My Skyline cost $88 to recore it about a year ago. Water pump is identical to the RB30E so a new one is $80 Fan is again almost identical to the 3 litre so any wrecker should be able to give you one of them and a new viscous clutch for it... Dont know the price of that, however.

If it is the same 9 bolt clutch as the RB25DET then I picked up the pressure plate for $99 at East Coast Auto Parts in Ringwood, Melbourne. It is a heavy duty reconditioned PBR part and I used a standard RB30ET friction plate Total $175 It has held probably about fifty 4,500RPM hard launches in the past few weeks without a sign of slipping but I figure it will only last me six months if I drive it this way

Dude, it is a 5 bolt pattern, the fifth bolt is hidden by the angle of the camera 4 spot calipers up front too...

My 1989 GTS-4 RB20DET had the GT-R headlights

Odds are there is something we're all missing that you've picked up on, heck I've picked up on strange little things previously too! Photo's!!!!! Show us what you're talking about

Yep its finished and I've been driving it all day... Love it The RB25DET gearbox is so much better than the RB30E gearbox... Problem I'm finding is that all gearing is a bit taller, with fifth being a lot taller. Acceleration is reduced in first and it gets me to about 75km/h where the RB30E gearbox used to get me to about 65km/h at redline. Now I can bump up boost and make the engine more powerful since I dont have serious traction issues anymore

If you're a bit electronics inclined, this will save you hundreds of dollars by not getting a pro to do it. To save a bit of time, I found an electronic square wave frequency doubling circuit on the internet and slightly altered it to suit the way the electronics in the Skyline work. Next I designed a circuit board that would fit all the components and built it. It works and is pretty accurate Here's the original circuit: http://users.otenet.gr/~athsam/freq...r_with_4011.htm I simply added a FET to the output (pin 11) to sink the current from the speedo instead of relying on the CMOS IC to do it. Parts: IC1 - CMOS 4011 quad NAND gate R1 and R2 - 10kohm 1/8 or 1/4 watt resistors C1 and C2 - 1nF capacitor (Code on cap - 102) Q1 - Any FET that can handle 50-500mA of Source-Drain current. The next link is the circuit board diagram I designed to mount all the components on. If you aren't able to, or dont want to etch your own circuit boards, you can simply buy a small amount of veroboard from the local electronics shop. http://members.optushome.com.au/pisstnbrok...qmultiplier.gif Hope it helps someone

That's exactly what I said although my unglesh is kwite a biit por yustaday. The eyeballs are the low beam (middle) parts, the parking lights are the outers and the high beams are the inner standard reflector type lights. Non turbo variants had the standard reflector type lights for the low and high beams.

The GT-R ones (and GTS4 and I think the turbo flavours of the R32's) have eyeball lowbeam lights whereas the regular ones only have the twin reflector lights.

haha here's todays sequel of f**kups.... 11am Initally I can't pull the gearbox out on my own, thing weighs too bloody much, wait an hour till a mate gets here and things start going OK. Driveshaft is out, plastic bags and rubber bands are around the output shaft of the box, jack is in place and we remove the gearbox, only putting another 45 scratches to complement the 2,000 odd scratches on the transmission tunnel. Clutch is replaced in no time, I've aligned it and we put the gearbox back on. Slave cylinder gets replaced as does the driveshaft and I sit in the car and test the clutch. 3:30pm Bloody thing slips, although it does stall the engine, if I use any throttle it slips like nothing on earth. I get under the car again, lots of swearing, and I realise the pivot fork hasnt returned all the way. A bit of persuasion with a hammer unjams it and I breathe a sigh of relief. Get back in the car, start it, put the foot down on the clutch, put it in gear and release the clutch. Woohoo it stalled and a bit of throttle didnt affect it. I try it again and the clutch fork jams again and car doesn't stall. Well sh*t. 4pm Tailshaft, slave cylinder and gearbox are removed again (Fourth time - I'm getting really good at this) and I see the pivot fork is sitting on the pivot ball properly but the thrust bearing somehow has rotated about 45 degrees on the fingers of the fork. No wonder its jamming. I dont know whether or not it somehow jumped out of position or whether I never aligned it properly so I put a cable tie around it to hold it to the fork. Sweet. Put the gearbox back in, the mandatory "tear the plastic bag and lose quarter of a litre of gearbox fluid on your chest" routine happened again now, all stuff is returned back into place and I start the car and test the clutch. 5:30pm Now it works!!!! I top the box up with fluid and get on to wiring the electrics. In no time I manage to blow a fuse while trying to figure out the three pins to speed sensor. Red wire is signal and it sits on 7.5 volts, yellow wire is +12v and black wire is ground. The red wire oscillates between 0 and 7.5 volts to generate the speed sensor pulses. I worked out the R31 gearbox makes about 9 or 10 pulses per revolution of the sensor. I didn't get around to checking how many pulses the R33 box made but suffice to say, I hooked the two wire sensor to the ground and 7.5v wires and I got a speed reading of approximately half the road speed, now I need to design and make a frequency multiplier circuit to bring it back to spec. 6:30pm Shower and get on here.... What a poo of a day.... Whats the moral of this whole story? Nissan wants to piss me off and they succeeded.

Have you had an immobiliser installed recently? The ignition barrel has two wires to start the engine, one goes to the starter motor, the other goes to the ECU, pin 43 to be exact. If this wire is not getting 12 volts when you are cranking the engine, those exact symptoms appear. Put a multimeter on pin 43 and get an assistant to start the car. If it goes to 12 volts then you've found your problem. Return the car to the monkey's who installed the immobiliser/alarm and get them to fix it. This is the ECU pinout for the RB20xxx and RB25xxx family of engines: http://members.optushome.com.au/pisstnbrok...CR33_Pinout.pdf EDIT - I'd first try the ECU reset since it's much easier....

Gearbox is coming out again today, wish me luck!! :eek: :eek:

Could be a relay as much as it could be absolutely anything else to do with the lighting system. If it's a relay, then it will be bloody hot. See, anything that drops a few volts at high current will dissipate an enormous amount of heat. It simply could be absolutely ANYTHING to do with the headlights. Could even be the plugs that connect the bulbs to the wiring. If you want to work it out for yourself, perhaps go and re-read my above post and try a bit of hunting around rather than asking people to find a needle in a haystack that we can't even see. If you are a tiny bit more electrically inclined and know how to follow a wire, perhaps you could use a multimeter and see where the voltage is being dropped. But this is just wasting time, finding the source of the voltage drop is SO much easier by finding out what part is hot.

My R31 did that and I bought brand new wiper arms from Nissan, they are absolutely as good as new now. There was a lot of slack in the arms which I believe was causing the shuddering. The springs were quite a bit firmer too.

If your headlights are dim, the voltage must be dropped somewhere else. Where the voltage is being dropped will be getting VERY hot. Lift the bonnet, using the stub of a big screwdriver, tap everything that looks electrical related. If it doesn't solve your problem, inside the car, bash the steering column when the lights are on (naturally take the trim off first) and see if it corrects the problem. Sniff around for where the heat is coming from, noses are great for finding minute sources of heat.

http://home.att.ne.jp/omega/hipogtr/galler...at2/R35GTRF.jpg http://home.att.ne.jp/omega/hipogtr/galler...at2/R35GTRB.jpg