phat_man

PM me your number, and ill MMS you one.

Air box sold

Located in Sydney Near Olympic park

Fuel pump sold pending payment.

Click link above to see pictures, thanks

Hi guys/girls, Unfortunately I no longer have my r32, therefore all the parts i've hoarded over the years must go. All parts work perfectly, any inspection welcome only if your serious, please no time wasters. Used: R32/s13 rear camber arms upper and lower (missing adjustment pins) $60 R33 front pair LCA's $180 r32 rear passenger LCA $60 Standard r32 gtst cat back exhaust with cat $100 Standard r32 gtst intake box with snorkel and intake pipe $100 Standard r32 gtst side mount intercooler only with some piping $30 Standard r32 headlights $180 pair Standard r32 passenger indicator $40 standard r33 (s1 i believe) turbo, tight shaft with elbow $180 R32 REO bar $80 r32 gtst Complete air con assy $80 s13 boss kit, was on car for under a week $20 Jasma exhuast $50 R32 gtst Stockies 2 with road worth tyres 2 without $140 RAY's Wheels C-Ultras 2 x 17 x 8.5 +34 & 2 x 17 x 9.5 + 38 $350 or $400 with spacers off r32 gtst one wheel has buckle (~$50 to fix) but does not leak any air, great for drifting, they are really light, wont find any rims this light for this price. Spacers are required to clear brake calipers. will need rubber for all 4. 2 x 25mm spacers 2 x 10mm spacers Brand NEW BITS: Kazama caster rods to suit r32's etc..... $260 I bought it for $300 never been used Bosch 040 fuel pump still in sealed plastic $170 I paid 200 Uras Handbrake shoes, never been used $220 i paid 250 Apexi AVC-r boost controller in limited edition black never been used $550 i paid $660. PARTS FREE to a good home: standard r32 spoiler black coil pack looms ( have like one clip missing, the other has like 2 missing, can do bodgy cut and shut job). standard r32 gtst steering wheel, leather is ripped. r32 4pot brake pads have a bit of meat left standard r32 brake lines, one of the front ones has rubber split but does not leak, would advise not use this one, but others are fine. standard r32 front chrome garnish? the bit that sits under the hood ontop of the front bar air ducts for standard r32 front bar (not sure which side) various plastics, front wheel arches, some rear and boot surrounds Blitz nur spec r silencer (the bit that bots into the cannon) Standard front r32 electric spoiler... I think thats it for now, I think the prices are fair, if you think otherwise let me know, and why. preferred if you got me on my mobile, Message anytime, or call when you think id be awake <removed>, Issa. Thanks Update CLICK to see pictures.

I have around 180-190 each to spend on 2 steer tyres... what should i go for. ku36's i can get for around the 180 mark where the fed RSR's are going closer to 200$ are the rsr's worth the extra money or is there something else i should be looking for? their needed for steering a drift car. Thanks. PS the rim is a 17x9.5 would like a 225 but most likely go a 235/45 as i dont think many tyres are made in the 225. cheers.

Thats one neat r32, are you going to keep it a virgin? or is this turning into a basher? (they 'ALL' eventually turn into this )

hahaha thought i was the only one to feel that except for the japs. Also how do you have the crankcase pressure valve set up? are you running a catch can or just like standard with the nipple on the intake pipe? sorry about all the questions, just absolutely love this car, especially seeing as its proven.

PS i know this may sound silly, but are you running a BOV? I know not running one usually means the turbo dies quicker (even though most people will deny this), its just that when running one, especially in drift, it doesnt feel like the BOV can keep up with being on and off the throttle as much as you are while drifting.

Just read all 22 pages, awesome build mate, reading this makes me want to get started on mine sooner. Good stuff! So how did the gtx go compared to the non gtx? Also whats the reason for the r33 TB instead of the r34 one? Good work mate!

Hey mate, Nah haven't got around to it yet, still need to source all the parts I need, ill give him a call Monday. Thanks for the help mate, its much appreciated.

How different is the auto loom to a manual one? I dont think it'll be to hard to source manual loom and computer, or are they not that different? because i will most likely run a nistune later on down the track so i dont mind waiting around for a manual one if its going to help later on. I plan on running the neo motor as is complete.

I think i might stick with the r32 cluster, only worried about getting the speedo to work as i know the navara mod doesnt seem to work as accurately as it should, any other suggestions for getting a speedo to work? Ok so far the best i've been able to find is a neo out of an auto r34 with approx 96,000k's for 1600 complete minus loom or ecu as its auto.... Where is good to look in sydney? Rolls: I'd like to keep the box as it'd be much cheaper, but i know the box is on the way out, and since its all coming out i'd rather change it now. Thanks for the input guys, its much appreciated. Thanks!

Awesome, looking for parts hopefully it doesnt take to long to find a healthy motor+box... Was there a lot of work involved in getting the r34 cluster to fit and work? i assume you had to use the neo temp sensor, anything else required to get all the dash features to work, same fuel sensors and rpm signal sensors? Please elaborate on what other problems you had fitting the r34 cluster? Thanks.

Loving the input, its much appreciated, thank you. If i choose to go down this path, ill definitely let you know. At the moment it looks like its the way to go, it seems to be the cheapest way to get the goals I want, a powerful car in a car that handles the way i like (mine does this already). Do you mind if you please PM a price for this work, also how much of the rb20 loom do you need? do i need to pull out all the stuff behind the dash? With this plug and play loom, everything wires back in like standard? and everything works like it should? if so i think i just had a wet dream. not just for the performance of the motor, but also because its my daily, and I'd like to have a working speedo, will the standard box cog work and wire in correctly? i plan on leaving the standard 4.36 diff. Thanks again, its really appreciated, as ive never done anything like this before, i need all the help i can get. thanks.

Hi, I currently have a RB20det manual (~240,000k's) in my r32 only running a fmic tbe and thats about it, its a great motor, although it has alot of k's, and i know the power is starting to die, I'd love to keep it, just doesn't seem economical to rebuild it and spend more money especially seeing as the price of a relatively newer rb25det neo will be cheaper (~$3k complete with a box) and it can handle a lot more. If I go ahead with this, I plan on running the complete rb25det neo motor with the loom and the neo ecu. So my question is (yes i have done a quick search), if i use the standard neo ecu with the neo loom, will i have drama's with getting the motor running like standard? Also with the wiring, is there anything else which will need to be spliced/rewired other then the wind screen wipers? Will i have to run a funny cog to get a speedo reading even with the neo ecu? Apart from heater hoses and cut and shut tail shaft, will i require any other parts? I plan on doing all the work myself, and hopefully learn as i go, I'm on a budget of around $3,500. Is there anything else i should take into consideration prior to going down this path? The car is my daily but, but also the car i slide every once in a while, so i'd really like to keep it, if not ill be in the market for a evo 6 or r33 gtr. Thanks in advanced, and please leave the silly comments to yourself, Thanks!

When I connect the PCV plumbing how it came from stock, i lose the stalling issue. But the stalling issue isnt my concern, my concern is running the standard PCV pluming with flutter, will this cause damage? Thanks.

The picture above isn't one of my engine bay, its just one i found on the net to show how i've got the PCV plumbing set up. Currently not running a bov. Thanks.

Oh sorry i should have noted, that the pic of the RB is just one i found on the internet, i just used it to demonstrate how mine is set up. It's not the blocking of the blow off valve that makes it near stall, its when it's set up like the above picture (PCV Setup) it does that. The reason i ask if not having a BOV affects this, is because i understand the back pressure/surge coming back through the intake pipe will lead the air back to the head, which might damage the motor, thats what i need to clarify. Thanks.

Not as much as the specs you originally posted, but it does it look bloody awesome. Good work mate!

What does it mean if it does this while its warm?

Hi, I know this seems to be a hot topic, and I have done a quick search, but I still havnt found the information/answer im looking for. Now the motor has done 225ks although it is tired and is slowly losing power, it still performs. I currently only have a fmic, cai, tbe and thats about it in terms of power, but ran a 171rwkw a while ago with these mods. I have blocked the Red bits, and the blue bits are vented to the atmosphere. Some people frown upon it, and some say its fine, all i know it seems to be working well, although i have noticed that it seems to stall when it decelerates rapidly eg. when pulling up to lights with my foot on the clutch and hard breaking. This is not the case when i return it back to the factory set up. My main concern is this; I'm currently not running a BOV, and would like to return it back to the standard set up to get rid of this stalling problem, but also just because im sure Nissan engineers are smarter then i am in this field regardless of what people think about emissions, a vacuum to get rid of crankcase pressure is better then the atmospheric pressure. Would running the standard PCV setup without a BOV mean that the "flutter"/back pressure created pressurise the crankcase and put me in a worse situation? Thank you.

I need steerers for the front, it will be for a street car so i wont be going slicks, not to mention im on a budget. its between the re001, ku36, or fed evo's. Now i know the re001's are alot more expensive followed by the ku36's and the evo's are alot cheaper, but i've only heard good things about the evo's. So should i just go the evo's? or is it worth forking out the extra coin for the re001 or ku36's? If there's anything else out there that should consider, let me know. Thank you.

They are the same, although the r32's have more space in fitting a bov then r33's do. Bonnet wont close properly on a r33 with a bigger bov even if it does on a r32.