phat_man

As title states, i need the R32 gtst Stock Cat, Cat back exhaust system, Air box, and intake pipe if you know where ill be able to find them cheap, or have them please PM me or call me on 0424 742 563. thanks, issa.

not only is it cheap, but ive found the quality to also be heaps better.

the way it picks up the petrol is different to the 044, it just has a screen along the whole bottom of the pump that sucks in the petrol, unlike the 044 that has a sock where you can control where it sucks. so the verdict is faulty pump? i hope im right, im going to take it back tomorrow.

i just used a handsaw, the ones made for cutting metal... worked a treat. i can also vouch for the dremel, i used that to cut through the fire wall, made it so much easier to get to, but it went through alot of cutting disc's.

yea thats what i thought. and no one else seems to of had this problem, except the ones with faulty 040's, so i think that might be the case... whats the go with warranty, i havnt had it for over 12months yet, should i just take it back to where i bought it and do they have to give me a replacement? keep in mind ive had it for around 3 months, but it hasnt been in the car for more then 2 days, it just took me a while to get around to putting it in.

the 044 seemed like overkill for what i wanted. but now the 040 isnt working properly... so can someone confirm that they needed a rewire to run a 040 in a r32 gtst? thanks, issa.

thanks for that appreciate it. the problem is i dont know anyone else that has a 040. yea i think thats what imight have to do, except do i leave the stock triggers in there (the ones that turn the pump off when theres enough fuel and stop it from pumping fuel when you crash... etc.. etc... or is it just a straight hard wire? lol i dont have any subs and dont plan on getting any. i dont want to have to go external pump, seems abit to much for the amount of power i ultimately aim of having (~230rwkw) so i think the internal should be plenty... only if it worked.... who suggest's a good place in sydney to redo the wiring for my fuel pump on my r32? btw thanks again for the help guys, appreciate it.

yea thats the other thing, its stock wiring still, but it works fine on idle, unless its cutting the amount of voltage its getting up the top as well.... its weird because the pump works fine for a bit, then it turns to shit. could it be a faulty pump?

it works pretty well without a fanging, unless i drive it for along time then it seizes as well, so i dont think it would be from that. also its a large mouth there isnt enough dirt in there to block it . could it be the wiring? is your computer standard? as afew reckon i need at least a remap. thanks.

ive tried it with a small amount of petrol 15-20L, and like 50L of petrol... it still does it. thanks alot for the input appreciate it.

ok, so a while ago i installed a 040 pump, followed the manual that i found on here, now i mounted it correctly, and took my time getting it the right distance from the bottom of the tank2-3mm. it would work perfectly fine for the first 5mins of hard driving, even feels healthier, but after abit the engine starts to seize, like badly. not just a misfire, a full seize and jolts the car. it would be fine under ~2300rpm and idle, but it starts to seize badly after that. now i know its not a misfire because i put the stock pump back in for now and it works fine, plugs are gapped to 0.8mm with ngk copper cold 7's. its all good with the stock pump, but somethings funny with the 040. now i had it dynoed with the stock one and its on 13.5afr's so i need the 040 in there, as its making 170rwkw and i understand its time to change the pump, but now i need to know is it getting to much petrol? does it need a retune or a fuel pressure regulator to stop this seize? i need other r32gtst owners to clarify whether they needed a fpr after they installed a 040. btw it's still running off the stock fuel pump wiring. thanks in advance, issa.

i have to agree about the sidewalls things, having used Sportmaxx's they are a very good tyre, and they have probly the best rate of wear i have used (having said that i havnt used that, that many tyres). with the side wall issue, it could be because i noticed that the sportmaxx's have thicker side walls then most other tyres. at the time i compared them to potenza re030 and the sportmaxx's had at least 6mm on each side.

as topic states.... still having problems. spuwing.... if not who wants to hard wire my Fuel pump, pm me. thanks in advance, issa.

thanks for the help guys, appreciate it. PROBLEM solved... well 90% sure it is... just got back from 'testing' it, and all seemed good except for a lil vac leak somewhere or i think its the bov not closing properly(90% sure its that) it feels like its that anyway..... funny thing is its an apexi item might need some gun oil . just one last thing, the more you drive, does the pump get more voltage/amp's? as it seems to get louder after a hard drive then when i first start it. from what i know because its still standard wiring, this should be the case, can someone please clarify. thanks, issa.

UPDATE! just finished playing around with it somemore. lowerd the pump as low as i could get it while not touching the bottom of the tank. that seemed to work wonders. went for a good drive around my area afterwards, was going all well, felt 'healthier', then it started sounding like a rex... at that stage i thought either just the coil's or i need a new rb... i know i wouldn't be able to stop thinking about it tomorrow unless i fixed it tonight, so i checked the coils and sure enough, one wasnt connecting properly, so fixed that one up, and then fixed another one up while i was there. had to cut and connect the wire together to save just braking them brown clips... just got back from another drive, and it doesnt feel as 'healthy' as before, but at least now it doesnt sound like a boxer engine. could i have mounted the pump to low now? ive filled it up petrol so its got half a tank which should be plenty, as it didnt have as much before, i still want to be able to use the bottom 1/4 of my tank. also who else is running copper plugs rated at cold 7's with 0.8 bar boost? im thinking of going back to 6's...

yea, thats what im thinking now. but im still stuck as to how much clearence there has to be between the bottom of the tank and the fuel pump. should i make it so theres only 1mm, or 5mm? also abit random but i would like to know, are the 'jecs' pumps the standard fuel pumps in r32's?

Auburn. i think i may have mounted the fuel pump to high, and its got less then a 1/4 tank, so im going to try and mount it lower. as when i orignally mounted it, it wouldn't let me bolt it in, so i had to make it higher, but im going to try get it as low as i possibly could. does anyone know how high off the bottom of the tank i should mount it. or how much clearence there should be between the bottom of the tank and the fuel pump. thanks.

ok, i just finished putting the coil loom in, AND ITS STILL DOING IT... feels like its a spark plug problem, but it started happening after i put the fuel pump in. now my fuel pump (being a bosch 040) is really loud, and ive asked around and everyone has said thats normal. so i can hear it powering along and it doesnt really sound like its struggling. is it because i put brke7's or do i need to rewire the fuel pump? mods i think we might have to move this one to the tech section. cheers. edit* does anyone know where the resistor is for the fuel pump, if its got one.

im pretty sure the rb20/25 (non neo) have the same coil's so i would think the same loom as well. can someone please confirm this. thanks.

im pretty sure the r34's run different coils/loom to the r33/r32's, can some one please confirm? btw thanks alot for the offer mate, really appreciate it. ill let you know once someone can clarify it.

i was servicing my car yesterday, test drove it after i serviced it, and it drove like a dream... now this morning it drove like dog's balls couldnt rev past ~2300 as it was spluttering but like something major... it was missing and felt like the engine was seizing when i tried to go past that. now i broke the yellow clip on the coil harness that sits in each coil pack. i only broke one of them, so i tried to do a quick fix, but im guessing its come loose. so im guess im driving on 5 cylinders? the other thing is, i usually put BRKE6's not 7's. so could it be the cold 7's make it drive like crap? and another thing is i changed the fuel pump to a bosch 040 on saturday. i put it in myself, could it be it i put it to high? it started to splutter abit after i did this, but i thought it was because for the 1st time in a while it was getting the right amount of fuel as i was wondering why my copper plugs that were in it lasted for so long as i had 15000ks on them and they still seemed to work fine untill i put the pump in. so i thought they were getting more then they could handle. i placed the pump so the bottom of it is inline with the bottom of the float. my coils are tapped, and the plugs are gapped to .8mm. any help appreciated. also i dont want to spend 100$ on a whole new coil loom, would much rather just buy the broken yellow clips. thanks in advance, issa.

lol cmon albert, you know i cant do that hahahaha... not yet anyway, but i do plan to in the not to distant future...

yep ordered my swaybars from Superiorsuspension via email. getting 27mm adj fronts and 24mm adj rears for 445$ delieverd. cant wait

again, thanks alot mate, really appreciate your input. ive sent an email regarding the swaybars. is there a place where i can pick them up as im in sydney, and id rather pick them up then buying online(not a fan). it'll also give me a chance to have a better talk about my suspension (if you dont mind ofcourse) as i keep going in circles in what to get, and what not to get, thanks, issa.

on saturday i was there and spotted a beautiful grey stagea, and a black r34 gtt.