phat_man

1st of all, your a champion, thanks alot mate really appreciate your feed back. sofar i plan on getting: tein tie rod+ends Waste of time and money what do you suggest instead? tein castor rods Be aware of the savage wear rate of the undersized and ungreasable sphericals i thought being tien, i thought they might be worth the while, what would you suggest is a better buy r33 LCA's Why? increase of camber, as well as track and possible lock. rear camber arms (not sure which ones yet) suggestions, and why? Be aware of the savage wear rate of the undersized and ungreasable sphericals Adjust the traction rods at the same time otherwise you will end up large amounts of bump steer. sorry for all my questions, but how would i adjust the standard ones? or is it new bushes. rear and front strut bars (not sure which ones yet) suggestions, and why? Front strut brace is definitely worth doing. The rear strut brace should be on the list for an R32, but not at the top. what ive been dying to know is if its worth spending extra coin on some 'good' branded strut braces, or just go with some just jap ones. rear and front sway bars (not sure which ones yet) suggestions, and why? What tyres? What spring rates? atm there 8kg fronts and 6kg rears and i dont plan on changing them, im running 225 45 17 on a 8x17inch rim at the front and there falken 451's and the rear is 235 45 17 on a 9x17 inch rim, the rear tyres are changing frequently but atm its a potenza re030 and a dunlop sport maxx... due for new ones at the rear. new bushes all round (which ones, not sure yet) suggestions, and why? Camber, front and rear, caster, rear subframe alignment, inner lower front and rear control arms, diff mount, steering rack, rear subframe bushes. im going to get these looked at in 2 weeks time, def going to change the rear subframe ones and i think ineed diff mount. the tie rods+ends, camber rear, castor and possibly lca's i wont change as im getting new arms(hoping to in the next 3 weeks) but i want to make sure im going about it correctly and make sure i know what's there to see whether they need changing or not. also increasing the track at the rear somehow. r33 rear lca's? Waste of time, same as R32s yea i figured im going to keep the rear standard for now, and im sure by the time i need to change them ill know what to change them to. got type s greddy coilovers... came in yesterday plan on trying to put them in myself this weekend, cant wait. Oh well, you can always sell them and buy something decent later on. common, there not that bad... or are they. sofar from what ive used them, they seem to be pretty decent, and ive only had them on the 12th softest damper setting, looking foward to cranking them. btw the car is mainly to get me sliding. Hardly "BTW", if you are serious about it you need to keep that on the top of mind. im just figuring out how different the car has to be set up just as a skid rig in stead as a grip car. so far this is all i think i will need, may be not the sway bars and strut bars for now As any suspension engineer will tell you swaybars are easily the best value for money suspension upgrade. yea, ive moved the sway bars as the top of my list. ive been trying to pm you but your inbox is full. can you please let me know what bars you recommend i get, and how much you can get me them for, and when i can pick them up if you dont mind. ... but def the adjustment... but i do want to get all my suspension sorted at the same time so i can start getting used to the feel of the car. so im trying to get this all done so i can get some proper practise in. bare in mind, im not rich and i am on a budget, but none the less, if it means waiting so i get proper quality parts, i will wait. Everyone has a budget thanks in advance. issa. Your welcome thanks again mate, really appreciate it.

im after whiteline sway bars, wheres the best place to get them from? also want some strut bars, should i just go the just jap's or should i get some good branded ones? cheers.

Where's the best place to get whiteline sway bars? also should i really fork out a few extra coins for some 'known brand' strut bars? or just grab some just jap ones?

thanks mate, appreciate your feed back. how thick are the sway bars you go? atm im thinking of just getting new bushes and longer lca's to fix the lack of camber at the front for a while.

i plan on getting r33 LCA's on my r32 front, and im also half way through getting suspension sorted. what i want to know is if i run r33 lca's will i have to use r33 tierods+ends or castor rods? or is there an advantage in doing so? sofar i plan on getting: tein tie rod+ends tein castor rods r33 LCA's rear camber arms (not sure which ones yet) suggestions, and why? rear and front strut bars (not sure which ones yet) suggestions, and why? rear and front sway bars (not sure which ones yet) suggestions, and why? new bushes all round (which ones, not sure yet) suggestions, and why? also increasing the track at the rear somehow. r33 rear lca's? got type s greddy coilovers... came in yesterday plan on trying to put them in myself this weekend, cant wait. btw the car is mainly to get me sliding. so far this is all i think i will need, may be not the sway bars and strut bars for now... but def the adjustment... but i do want to get all my suspension sorted at the same time so i can start getting used to the feel of the car. so im trying to get this all done so i can get some proper practise in. bare in mind, im not rich and i am on a budget, but none the less, if it means waiting so i get proper quality parts, i will wait. thanks in advance. issa. ps, ill update this as i go along.

would you be able to put r33/s14 rear arms in the back of a r32 to increase track and camber? or is it to much of a hassal to change them around. thanks.

was that for removing all solinoids, and lines? if so thats heaps cheaper then what ive been quoted at other places.

Wow, didnt expect it to be that steep... might be worth while just to go external then.

+1111111 lol to to to true.

i dont exactly get what your saying here, but if your asking if you run a external gate on an internally gated turbo, yea u need to weld the internal one shut. id rather not run an external gate on this size turbo, doesnt seem very economical, esp for the power these make/amount they flow. im sure you would be able to flow abit more and hold boost abit bettter, but for the amount its going to cost to get it done (with good quality bits) doesnt seem to be worth the coinage. mot to mention all the other goodies you would be able to get to make that extra 5kw. rather get coil packs/cams/more suspension bits... etc....

ive actually been thinking about this very same situation, for a while now. as i currently have a rb20, and am thinking of going a rb25 gcg hi-flow. but ive been thinking of not going the EBC just an 18psi actuator. or will that have to much play with weather changes and heat....etc...

i still got mine and try to slide. when i 1st started i thought hicas was shit and it was making me oversteer etc.... then i realised that finding a smooth rd is one of the more important things. plus if its a r32, hicas is minimal, i remember reading somewhere that hicas on r32's only moves out like 1.5 degrees, which aint much, and unless your doing 120k entries you shouldnt worry about it to much... in saying that, i still plan on removing it in the near future.

spuwing... i knew my car was to good on petrol. how do i go about checking my fuel pump? better yet i got a 040 under my bed, will it run to rich if i just chuck it in, seeing injectors are still standard? ps thanks for the help. edit: forgot to mention mods are FMIC, straigh through turbo back, CAI and running 12psi. (boosted its self)

nice to meet some of you guys, was some nice cars there to. i got a question though the higher the number is on the A:FR the leaner it is correct? because im running pretty high. starts at 13.8 then dropes to 12.5 then goes back up to around 13.5. is this dangerously high? what should it be around?

lol auburns what ever you want it to be... africa, asia, middle east, europe.... lol i was raised cooking chicken

cheers mate. lol im only going near the BBQ if its chicken, then ill show you skilz that kilz. ps LOL at Michael doing doughy's in the car park lol

would you be needing some help? or will i just be standing around looking pretty for a long time? lol if you like ill meet you at auburn maccas at like 9 am? and leave as soon as we get there?

fair enough, well if you need an extra pair of hands for help, let me know and ill be willing to make the trek... earlier...

why so early?

planning to make it out tomorrow, should be good to finally meet some of you guys and gals. anyone heading up from inner-westish area?

yea parra uni carparks are gay, they turned they whole EE building ones into blue, and now there not letting you park on the grass, when they didnt have enough parking spaces as it is. like others have said, get in there early. and lol about the burnout many a time i have left my marks there, i was suprised no one else had. if your up for a drive, drive around to the back of the uni next to the river and try find a parking spot there on the grass or something. if not just bring a paint brush and some yellow paint

anyone want to shed more light on this matter?

for 1950 and only get a year out of it??? that cant be right. if it is ill rather pay the extra 1k and get a gt-ss. my turbo's dont get the easiest of times.

that doesnt change with the kit, or so im told. its supposed to bolt straight back up like the standard one, as it should as nothing from the out side is changed. im also contemplating getting one of these GCG turbos. whats there quality like? and power figures? ive seen them get 230rwkw quite well and thats the power i want, but are they the best turbos for that power figure regarding response and reliability? ive asked around quite abit and so far im leaning towards this turbo, what do yous think?

ive got 235/45 17 on my rears which are 9" and they look just a tad stretched. good size though.