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Everything posted by phat_man
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^^^ yea the louder flutter is normal, its the WRX sounding note that i would be worried about.
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+1 to do that. does it mainly happen when its under load as well? it may be your coils, try taping them up with some good brand elec tap and getting new plugs gapped to like.8 or less depending on how much boost your running. works a treat.
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ok for others reference, they need 25mm spacers up front, and 10mm spacers at the rear. you need to also change the standard wheel bolts, as they are to big to fit snug with the 10mm spacers. other then that, there a great fit on the standard suspension set up, they may look a tad to high, but some good coilovers in the not to distant future should fix that problem. edit: running 225/45 17 at the front and 235/45 17 at the rear. cheers, issa.
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1992 R32 gtst Wheel dia= 17" Wheel width=8" fronts 9" rear Wheel offset 35 fronts 38 rears tyres 235-45-17 front tyres 255-40-17 rear Didnt need to do any mods car was lowered 25mm thats answers on question. thank you ledgend01 what work will i need if i lower anyfurther? also spacers? cheers, issa.
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im currently looking at my turbo options as well. for that turbo size the gtr 444cc injectors will be enough. they are good for 265rwkw. theres mixed opinions about the gtrs esp for its price being garrett items are t25 not t3. im thinking going the rb20 gcg hi flow, but it all depends what power you want. im aiming for around 230rwkw as responsively as possible, i hope this is the correct option. sorry but this may be abit of a hijack, but will a stock afm suffice for this goal?
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Best Trade-off For Power/spool On Rb20
phat_man replied to falcon's topic in Engines & Forced Induction
who has more information on the t518z turbo. i also want the best trade off for response/torque (not just figures, but so i can feel it) and power (like everyone else) but i want around 230-250rwkw, if it means im going to lag from breakfast to asshole to get 250rwkw then idont want that much, but i would like at least 230rwkw. i want the car to feel that its pulling hard(usuable power) by 3k. its a r32 gtst from what i mentioned earlier would the smaller exhaust housing version of the t518z be the best option? -
how can you go? arent you gona be stuck with me?
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spotted police last night next to laziko on parra rd. i was in a shit box camry next to you.
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thanks primordial. found it at CRD, thanks to the guys at CRD got it at an awesome price with a 040 pump. cheers, issa.
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anyone? someones got to have an idea? thanks.
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ok i want a trust LS to pick up this weekend. who knows where i can get it from? its for a RB20 r32, thats the problem, no one has them, and i dont want to pay a shit load extra going rate is ~650(im pretty sure). thanks, issa.
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yesterday i spotted a wait for it... wait for it..... A R 3 4 G T R V - S P E C I I i creamed my pants looking at it, it was in guildford got down and took photo's of it n all, definately one of the nicestest cars made, looks like it doesnt drive on the road, it eats the road.
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1st of all, i did do a search but i still dont know what to do with the lines that run into the intake plenum... i havnt started to do it yet, but i want to do it soon but i dont know where to start. i dont know what to do with the lines that run to/from the intake plenum. do i loop them or just block them? also what components is there to remove? and where are they located? with the front spoiler, i dont know where to start? do i just unbolt it and rip it out, what other things is there to remove with it? anything that is in the dash? ps is anyone willing to help me out in syd, could possbly be worth a case of what you drink. cheers, issa.
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spotted a grey R32 GTR this morning heading up james ruse drive with me
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lol, i posted as soon as i saw it. glue on the boss kit??? its just on there tight, i doubt its glued. if its good quality it wont get wrecked if you whack it a few times lol. just wrap a towel around a clublock or something and hit it a few good times to loosen up the boss kit, butt it off (with the wheel still attached, guesstimate it then put it back on and just so nut is on there and you cant pull it off, not tight untill you get it right. the main thing is not about damaging the steering wheel, but its about not stuffing the teeth on the boss kit or the steering coloumn.
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yea thats abit queer. no waterman components anymore either. there all on 'phase 3' but not everyone is allowed to do it anymore. ask some of the guys if they know "skyline". tell spr jack, mexhico, jess, cookie, and sly bro (and anyone else i forgot comes from 5cer) trad says hi.
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patrolling? these days, the frontline isnt visible, your always fighting.
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hahaha you 5CER people a bunch of clowns 21st const. here. i got a few mates from where you are. was on phase one with them recently. lol all grunts with they were ginger beers... we are we are we are the engineers... we can we can we can demolish 40 rums.... *f**k every queer and assualt pioneer, long live the engineers* hahahahahaha
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do you need shirt and pants? the jacket is just like kahki/tan not even camo, but its heaps warm lol and it aint that cold yet. the next thing is the rain coat, its supposed to be gortex, but it does have cam on it, also makes that annoying noise though lol. tell me exactly what you need and ill see if i got it at home. cheers, issa.
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thats the fun part, doing 200000000milion happy laps to get it straight, what you do is put the steering wheel on the boss kit, and then put it to where you think will be straight (leave the horn button off) and then just put the main nut back on just so its not loose (not tight) then try and drive straight, take it off and adjust accordingly, took me a few goes to get it right. once its right tighten the boss kit on, then take just the wheel off put your horn button in and put it all back together. done. goodluck, issa.
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spotted a gtr this morning around 8 45 going up james ruse drive.