MJTru

Im trying to load more photos. Having problems will try a bit later

So as some may have seen ive been staying tuned to this topic as i like this thread. I have been experimenting with different setups as i build a few rb"s On rb26 ive gotten pretty much sorted out. I started with the piston rings. Next was head oil restrictors. A custome head drain. (Ok not a drain lol ) so bare wit me a bit here as im sure ill get ridiculed. I vented the block from the front turbo drain unsing a dash 10 hose. Head drain (not a drain) to the rear turbo oil drain. And the singal gt42 drian go to the race fab oil pan on the turbo side. I have 2 rb26 set up this was and not a signal sign of oil. On the rb25's its a bigger challenge and ive done the following that seems to work upwards of 28 psi of boost and no sign of oil the car doesnt even have a catch can at the moment as were being lazy and not installed it as yet. We really realized that the rb25's shouldn't have there oil restricted to much as the lifters need to have a good amount of oil. We even had some new set make noise untill they cooled down. Before that the just failed and tick all the time. Were talking new lifters from rhd japan here. So last what seemed to work for us was to get rid of the front head drain. We blocked that off from the head and vented the block but we focused on really letting all this oil drain. We had no idea if it will work at the time. I puched the biggest hole i could in the back of the head with 2 dash 12 (drain) hoses one on the intake side of the head to the front ofna race fab oil pan, exhaust side on the rear of the oil pan. The standard head drain pooled the oil in the line and backed that up in the rear of the head. So we thought we should pool.the oil in a oil catch and use the weight of the oil to help puch it down only when it pools up. Whiles cornering it would do so in the respected dash 12 drains. So this led us to make our own head drain. ( please remember this was all experimental at the time.) So after that was done the turbo oil drain was returned in the same place as the rb26 set up. But on the rb25 there was no oil drian as on the rb26 for rear turbo. So we simply made that in the block. And from our dash 12 hose (head drain) exhaust side we returned it there. The photo i have a ruff but gives a good illustration of what i mean. The photos are old and missing the 2 dash 12 hoses. But we have been testing it and not a sign of oil as yet. If anyone is intrested id be happy to give more details. Just pm me.

The photo attach i got from facebook but i cant comment. So i cant ask any questions or anything. Seems like a a 6 speed setup on what seems to be the bell housing for an rb. Anyone have any info on this.

:lol::lol:

I tollay understand what you mean by saying search harder Ive been ridiculed like this for as long as ive been using this sight.. id like to say this. One thing im not is lazy. Next this site isnt just an archive of info its also a interactive site and when and after how ever long it takes someone to search info doesn't mean that they shouldnt ask a question just to see if there are better ways to do it. Technology does progress very fast and after looking at old post whats the problem getting interactive by asking few questions. Seems like people like new topics but thats not going to happen with a 25 plus year old car. But the technology used to run them can. Yeah ill look harder with that attitude i do believe what my uncle tells me. (90- 10 rule )90 percent of the prople makes 10% of the money and 10% of the people make 90% of the money. Wounder why that is maybe they should ask more questions. But guess what its been done countless times search harder. Sorry for leaving topic. Thanks for all those who have helped me. Cheers.

This makes no sense running on about. By asking i learnt where the abs computer was. Oh but that was talked about millions of time the fu__ing car is just 25 years old whats there left to talk about???

Thanks guys i do search hence these ideas. But i always regret not asking so i always make it a point to ask. The fuse in the bonnet is a big one its like 30amps and the wire is thick. The attached photo will illustrate what i mean. Or is it a fuse inside the car if so its in japan. But i can remember having a English version of it. Ill have to look.

Hi guys. Well i have the attesa system sorted out. Im intrested in how to instal a switch to kill the attessa. I dont want to have to leave the car, or pop the bonnet. Like pulling the fuse and thats a high amp fuse so the wire would have to be very big as i thing its for the entire system ecu hydraulic pump and so on. I was wondering if i get a attessa ecu pin out i can just kill the contoller. Just was wondering how that would work. If i install a kill switch on the power supply for the ecu and do a burn out come to a stop and then power it up before reversing engaging the 4wd system again. Is this possible. ??? The purpose of this is to aid in traction by warming up the rear tires as the systems back bone is rwd. Thanks in advance

Ive sent out like 3 emails on various sumps. But the spool import, one did catch my eyes. The suppliers of these sumps really need to add photos in the inside. Thats the most important part. On spool imports web site they did just that. And the work seems clean. As for now im leaning to them.

Im looking to buy a oil pan. Ive gotten my rb26 oil pans from racefab and they where great. I noticed i cant see the inside or the baffles for the rb25 ones, and was wondering you any of you guys ever got one of an rb25. Do any have any photo of the inside of the 25 unit. I have google it and contacted Rob at race fab and he said that its hard to take photos because the one he has is already welded up, and cant be taken apart like the rb26 can. Next for the rb25 is there a better option than racefab. Ive tried asr but there not returning my emails. Photos would be great. Thanks in advance.

Lol. No i dont think ill be doing that bolt mod. But i have ordered a set of friction plates and drive disks from greenline. I hope these guys are for real and i dont have to visit them. After i paid no one is answering my emails. I wouldn't do business with them again. If the disk do arrive i will rebuild the T-CASE. And try the manual system here is my first part that arrived. Attached photo. I will get this to work. Im looking for the hydraulic pressure used for full lock on the T case. ??? I was trying to find the pressure from a video by looking at the gauge, but the image isn't clear enough.

May i add. Its not on the streets just an abandoned airport runway.

Here is it not working https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=zjQzzthOcKs

Thanks guys here is the video of the car with the attessa working https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=--X8l8dA5-0

Drag racing wise that is.

I feel i had a good read up on that topic. Thats why i asked for a link. Computer coding is my wifes specialty. Not mine. But i do know its a way to win people in building confidence in a product. Simple marketing and marketing anything is like 99% intellectual property. But. What do i know?? Ill tell you this much. There is no system other than being equal, that will engage the attessa 4wd system faster than a manual system, just need to know the right time to let it go. Thats key.

Can you post a link please. Or should i just google it

Yes i agree that the post has some good and bad idea. But its intresting to see the ideas that we all have. Some are not practical at all but opens the door to understanding peoples point of views. Even though some makes no sense. Kind of like on any topic. Some will always sound crazy. But here what happened to me.so far i changed the whole attessa pump. And man. I cant see a difference now between reaction time from my r33 gtr to this gts4. All i have now is traction. And yes all i do is drag race, i know lost of the guys here circuit race but some if not lost of things are common. I cant believe the difference this attessa pump made. When i was bleeding it up i noticed the difference right away. The manner in which the pump sounds and the pressure on the line. Now when i drive if i go on the gas a bit and bring in just a little bit of boost the front torque split gauge starts to move up to about 15% and now my 4wd light stays off on start up every time. Before it would come on. Then id have to stop cut the car off and restart it. From the r33 to r32 i can without a doubt mension tye difference. First the r33 gtr is more relaxed for exsample. R32 whiles driving tends to always apply the front wheels on the r33 gtr this doesn't happen unless there is a slip condition. Im still going to rebuild my transfercase and when these driven and drive plates come from greenline. (Much thanks there guys) next im working on have the manual engagement system worked out, but im going to install it in my r32 gtr. (Bare wit me it get confusing because i have a few cars i mess with.) This gts4 chassis i experiment wit. Thanks for all the ideas guys. Keep them coming. And if anyone has info where i can get a good manual system from please PM me. Thanks.

Ok. I got greenline to supply the disk to me. And ill rebuild the transfercase. I just finished installing a r32 gtr attessa pump on my gts4 after i found a leak on the pressure sensor. First it was a hose i changed that clean everything. Next after a day of driving i found more oil on the diff. So i pulled the whole diff from the gts4 and replaced the pump with the whole unit from the r32 gtr. Ill post back the results. Soon.

How can this be??? Or.is this just happening because your trying to fully lock the system whiles circuit racing. For drag racing from what i gather you can lock it up via a hand pump syatem. ??? Im interested in knowing if the system can work as mensioned above. Adding a switch on the bleeder wire to fully engage 4wd. And having go back after launching the car. I can see it pulling a code doing this but default is 2wd. ???? What do you guys thing. ???

Ok let me take a few moments to explain what im thinking. I want to retain the factory system and have a manual pump up system. So ill send the attessa line in the car with a bottle valve. This valve will separate the factory system from my manual system im going to set up on the other side of this bottle valve. (Towards T-case.) All the mods happen here. Im going to use a 240sx hydraulic ebrake setup to pump it up. Im going to have a pressure release valve in line so i cant over pressurize the system (will need to know the max attessa pressure for full engagement.) Next im planning on this pressure side to T-case have an emergency electronic release valve . Im planning on having some kind of computer at predetermined speed engage. Letting the attessa system bleed back to resivour. I will have one way check valves stoping the pressure to interfere with the manual pump when the valve is open for normal operating. Hope its doesn't sound crazy. Lol. Ill draw it out on the weekend.

Thats simply what i want. Unlike him im far from 1628hp. So i wont need the 4wd all.the way down the track. But im envisioning the set up ill need to do. Ill just need full 50/50 for 2 gears. 1st and 2nd. Then i can have a electronic valve at the hit of a button release the 4wd. For less friction and more rwd movment. So ill plot it out. Just one thing. Whats the max pressure needed for full engagement. I can do this.

I will.read it right away sir. Thanks.

Im reading these threads. Leaning hard to fullrace ets extreme. Still need to understand the system tho. I love the launch from a r33. I have most of my money in my r32 gtr and need to get it off the line if not equal as my r33 even better.

Im saw an r33 gear box for sale. But dont know how to identify a r33 box. But that wouldnt be the solution. The reaction time would still be laggy comparing to the r33. Unless the preload is in the case and now created by hydraulic pressure. ???