MJTru

Yes i do. Lol. But i also have lots of cars. This is for my gts4 that i just brought back from the dead. Im running small 550 injectors and using a power fc. I know to make about 500hp using no dyno, but on my other gtrs im aiming for way more than 500hp. But on this car (gts4) i just was wondering if i need to use z32 afm for 22 psi. Thats my goal. Ive done 25 psi on rb25 wit z32 afm and the motor still going to this day. Just need to know if the twin stock r32 afm will handle 22 psi.

I never understood how the hose in the back of the head is a breather. ??? For me in drag racing it never breaths. Its always stuffed with oil. The oil has a had time flowing back to the front of the sump on hard launches. I tend to use the highest point for a breather on the block. We all try different things.

I was wondering whats the max psi a r32 rb26dett gtr factory twin afm can handle.????

Make sure the gate isnt leaking.

Hi sorry for the delay on this build. Well i just finished the motor build. Was a little hold up on the head drain. So i just built my own. I step back and looked at it and decided to do it a bit different. I drained it into the rear turbo return and im going to vent the bottom end from the front turbo return seeing how thats the highest point. The actuall turbo retun is on the oil pan using dash an10 fitting. All my other setups have the head drian going all the way back to the front. To me that a long trip and the forces of foward movement is trying to keep the oil back even in the pan. More downward trip (hense) should keep things moving. Only drow back is in the oil pan. The rear of it is only so big so at some point it will start flowing foward. I guess. Lol. The oil pan is bigger so the extra oil is also a bonus.

Hmm whats a CAN WBC KIT. My guess would be CAN communication type. And WBC. Is some kind of wide band correction device. CAN being very fast. Just a guess here lol.

Ok finally got them cleared. Should i change the thread topic ??

I just got some torco mix with the pis* for gas we have here when im out of race fuel. It works fine i guess but never did a real test of it. Really dont know how to test it. From gas to torco mix, knock is down a bit. Race fuel is my personal opinion thats the best.

I remember i had an issue like this long time ago with a halset turbo. It just kept over boosting even when i tied the gate open. Talk about lost. So one day i took the turbo off and noticed it was a t3 twin scroll. The gate only vented from one side. The othere side just kept boosting. So over boost hard. I noticed it only controlled boost over 22psi. So thats what i aimed for. I upgraded everything to handle more than 22 psi. She was good after that. Hope thats not your issue mate. Cheers

Hmm i noticed that to. But i run an aftermarket boost controller. Power fc logs the boost if you use it.??

What is a BF XR6. Im mean i can google it but damn. Kml. Seems like guys here dont like the dark side. Please dont say its a ford.

You should try changing the coils. Just as a process of illumination. Check injector plus make sure thats fine with a node light. Should be one of those. Last resort could be a broken ring. Need to do a leak down test. Wit broken ring its tricky. I had one years upon years ago but had compression.

Well im in miami. Now cant wait to get back to try these out

This is intresting. Thanks for taking the time to help me out mate. Im taking a trip to miami tomorrow and when i come back im going to finish assemble my stock rb26. I will try to get the haltech working with all the parts being stock first. Just to get the motor started and get familiar with the unit. It was intresting how you mention checking the timing to make sure the haltech is reading the right thing. I guess id have to use a timing light for this and get to number one spark plug. Last time i did it i lifted the coil and used a spark plug wire with the coil sitting a bit to the side. The next part was to adjust the wide band to get the right value. That i didnt do last time. The right injector info i have. There sard 800cc injectors from rhd japan and has all the lag time. But not across voltage. Post start enrichment beat me up last time i tried it. Ill give it a very good try after i return from miami. As im going to get my work wheels for my r32 gtr. Im not even happy about it no more. I think this situation is beating me up.

I really appreciate all the suggestion. I even joined up the haltech website last night. I have had tunes from jim wolf and RS enthalpy before and they worked fine. I can ship my car to the main land but it will be a big problem and lots of red tape. i do understand that i would be able to tune it for light loads. And investing in a good knock device would make sense as i always wanted one. I do it with the power fc, i even gave it a try with the rb25 and got it all setup and ran on light loads. I do understand that to find the right torque curve i would need to have a dyno. Over the years of messing around with the power FC all i did was look at the knock levels, as with turbo motors i would get high knock before torque drop off. Dont get me wrong its the brain dead approach, but worked as long as the fuel was good and engine was resistant to knock it was good. I would still appreciate the walk through this it. Im sure someone have what could be considered a base map for stock rb injectors using internal map sensor. Thats a good starting point and can easily be cleaned up.

Looked him over. Hope they could help me out. They seem busy. Pm was sent. Thanks mate.

No i did. Just have no choice really. I wasnt thinking of remotely tuning it. Was just asking for base maps closest to my set up so i can clean it up. Hmm. So why do people sell rom tunes. Like jim wolf. And RS enthalpy. Lots of people do using the volumetric efficiency method. It gets it very close to the real thing. But from my experience the way you measure load injectors and ecu choice is key to doing a tune this way. To me a ecu is just a buffer between a the actual fuel amount and air entering the motor.

Lol this is funny.

Hi guys. I have now for a long time own a haltech PS2000 and would finally like to use it. Does anyone offer tuning service that would be able to work with me on a one on one base to get a 600 hp goal. I can provide all info needed and pay via paypal. Or wire transfer. I have very minimal experience using it. Please PM me for further details. Thanks. Cheers

Hmm. I never thought it was 450. Thats good for me. I know what you mean about how you load the motor. I really dont want much. Just more than 300. Lol. I have owned several rb25s from neo to r33. To me i just like the 26 better. I drag race thats it. I actually also had a rb25 from a r33 gts4. It must have been because it was stamped rb25 and had the bolt holes for the 4wd oil pan on it like the 26 and 20 from gts4 originally.

Sorry i said that a bit wrong. The gts4 that i have is 4wd. But if i was to run a rb25 wouldn't it turn rwd. ??Eather way id choose a 26 over any 25

I totally understand that. What would the power potential be for the freshly built stock rb26. Even if i up the injector size. ??

How would use the 4wd system. Rb25 neo cant never be a rb26 mate. The rwd will limit it to be just that rwd not 4wd. Thats what i wanted. Plus it was just laying around and ya cant beat free.

+1 here i still dont understand it. Kml:D:D

Hmm. I needed that. Ok. I was thinking nistune. But may just go with the power fc. I have no experience with nistune. Unless some has a setup i can just buy thats a good price. Thanks for that tho guys sometimes i loss my sense of direction. Ill set it up the car and for now just share a power fc, and just upload a tune for the particular car it's in. Ill share between a r33 gtr and a r32 gts4 (rb26) powered. Here is the last question thats bugging me with the 550cc injectors with a fresh stock motor. What power levels should i expect. And what boost would be my limit.