MJTru

Cant believe that there is no drag racing info on here like that

Hardsteppa your profile info is a total flam. Kml. Wouldnt be surprised if your a island boy. Your sure as hell not 75. Kml

Lol. Funny I did bust a manifold once. Kml. But it wasn't because of nos. It was just boost pressure. And the fact that there was lots of weight hanging on the manifold. It doesnt seem like lots of guys drag race here. But I like corns to. But no where here for that type of racing. Launch on 2 dont work. Lol. Jump and there goes your money.

Cant wait to try it out. I'll post back as sson as the kit reaches.

I have asked about drag racing here in the past but would like to start a new thread. This time speaking about specific mods that can be done. Now that I have tried a few things. I would like to add that I personally dont own a gtst anymore and has opted to just own gtrs personally for those that may know me. Now I have built like 3 gtst rb25's blow up one of them and was left with 2 one of which I sold to a friend as well as importing a gtst which we installed the engine in. Its built for around 800hp and he has saved all his cash for five years and now the car is done for the last year. And with all the mods that I have learnt here ive been trying. To date we have been winning. Our compation is 2 2jz powered supras and like 2 evo3 and 1jz powered 240sx (180sx). His car is running 18psi and is capable of 25-30 psi with about a 100 shot of Nos maxing out at that. So we have all the supporting mods. What I would like to talk about is suspension geometry and setup First thing we did was down grade the rear btakes to oem stock 240sx rear disk. Next we ordered some american (Weld racing) rims and M/T ET drag tires. Mounted them and it was a perfect fit. What ive noticed is that the car sits with a bit negative camber so the next thing we will work on is a set of toe and camber arms for the rear. We also installed a hicas lock bar. Im thinking about buying a set of pineapples for the rear end and upgrading the rear diff. To a 2 way unit. The car came from japan with lowering springs not coil overs so im stuck there until a new set is bought. What we are really looking for is a set of front shocks or settings that will let the front rise up fast and be hard to drop. And the opposite in the rear (drop fast and lift up slow) I have yet to learn the right words for this meaning. Like rebound or somthing like that. I always mix it up. Lol. I what the rear to be like 365mm from the center of the wheel. Im thinking of using like a set of 1 to 2 kg springs. Im also thinking of taking off the sway bars to gain a bit more grip. I must get this right as there is a mustang with solid rear axle so as he launches his tires stay flat all the way through his weight transfer. His car isnt to fast but hooks like crazy. Hense why I like gtrs. I've personally beat him by like 7 cars. At 14 psi. Stock injectors and motor. But this gtst I have to learn to get it set up right. I feel as if I never completed my past goals before I got gtrs. And feel like I have a second chance to make it happen. The tricky part is that its not on a prep track. Its an old airport run way. Am I on the right track here. Any help would really be appreciated guys. He beats the supra as well, we dont have a power issue we have a traction problem.

Well over here we have no emission laws. Im not actually in the states just on a small island about 30 minute plane ride away. This is how I get to enjoy all the jap cars. Its weird here. Lol. So because of the fact that I have no emission laws here I will just run it all the way back no cat ever. None of my cars have cat's on them. But stull would like a nice muffler. I've been looking all day cant find none with a 4" inlet. I may just have to mod a 3" inlet one. Hmm. This sucks. As for the 2 gtrs its tuff to maintain them as it is.

I can build one. But I understand your point with the bigger exhaust up close to the turbo. Kml. Make it. You need to see how they make them over hear. Imagine a pigeon taking a crap on a peace of pipe thats about how that will look. I will just bite the bullet and build one. All I would want is a nice looking muffler. I would like to have a 4" inlet with some kind of a bigger tip. Funny you would mention that bigger pipe at the heat source. On my r33 gtr I have a 4 inch pipe coming off a gtx3582r 3" vband that goes to a 4" pipe. Hmm. I hate welding thats all.

I cant seem to find a cat back exhaust system for my r32 gtr. Im looking for an exhaust that 4 inch all the way from cay back. Or at least starts to get bigger as it goes further back. I have one that does that for my r33 gtr but cant seem to find a one for my r32.

They come with automatic discharge solenoids. One from 35 to 40 psi and one from lets say 55 to 60 I guess the in between would be an issue.

I was thinking today, what stops me from running two accumulators one for low rpm protection and one for high rpm protection. This is possible????? In my head it is.

Hmm. Doesnt paulr33 page has the installations on how to do this using a PFC. you should check that out mate

Hmmm. Very nice I see you removed the humps as well. its nice to see an rb30 bottom end with the 4wd oil pan still there. I would have done one long time ago but it seems hard to find parts for them here vs a 26. Just getting a block is tough. The car looks good mate. And seems like you have it under control looking at the pics. Who makes that extend sump.??? Sorry guys we may have strayed off topic a bit here. But I am asking about the sump:D and I take it that you also running an accumulator. If so do you mind showing me how you tied it into your oil system. Thanks mate.

Yep im one of them. -_- And GTRPSI any good photos of that gtr in your profile photo. ??

Thats funny cause I was just going over that part in my head. Its funny you just mensioned that. Cause if you were following my gts4 post. I had the same problem when it came to the right oil level in the moded sump. I was told to use the same oil level mark on the dip stick. So after crashing the car and damaging the oil pan I ordered another. This time I figured out two things. First the oil level was changed based on quantity vs. The oem level mark inorder to carry more oil to factory level mark. Next was if you install the pan on a engine stand you should lift the pan to the block rather than dropping it on and having the block upside down. And installing the pan. For those of you that uses a racefab oil pan if its done wrong. (Having the block upide down and dropping the pan on the block that way) the trap doors are held open and never close by the oil pick up. So its best to leave the blick right side up and lift the oil pan to the block. Hmmm. I wounder this after it was done the first time. Second was after I used water outside as a mock up the level on the dip stick changed. Or it would just have a lower level. I used a oil level with the stock oil pan as a reference. Im actually still confused to that finding. Which comes to this point. If im wrong then ill have more oil and using that level will work for my accumulator level Mesurments. Thanks for that reminder mate.

Well said mate well siad. I change and went with the 55 to 60 psi one. As the car will see high rpms. And only intended for drag. So if I may. At low idle the accumulator will not work basically only at high rpms will it build its internal pressure. I have a racefab extended oil pan as well as run an oil cooler. At around 4k I have over 100 psi of pressure but at idle when hot its around 40. Is there any link to as what line size should be and in my drawings I went with a 10an line. I would also like to know the first time filling procedure and where do I tee it in on my oil system.

Hmmm. Nice video. But not clear on what discharge value to go wit.

Sounds like a good idea GTSBoy. For sure. Thanks mate.

Seller wants to know asap. Help

Ok here what I want to know bring this back to life. I just got my accusump. But how do I know what discharge pressure I need I have a tomie oil pump on my rb26. At idle warm im at 40psi. I have a choice of 20 to 25 discharge valve as well as 35 to 40 and 55 to 60. Im lost to as which one to get.

I need.to read up on all of this. As well as bring some of these concerns to the guys that run them over here. If I was to buy a brembo big brake upgrade. I would guess all these issues would be addressed. This is crap because im all about functionality then looks. Wow. I can see myself basically taking a course on these valid points. Here goes the reading. Ok. If it was you guys is there any way of addressing these problems feom the info you've seen. Thw bleed screw one is valid. Any others???

I got the 4 piston ones. I just realized that this piston orientation may only apply to the six piston ones?? I may have missed that r32. I will check thanks mate.

I couldn't find a really good fuel cooler so I used a trans oil cooler with 8 an lines in and out. I will make a system under the car to funnel air through it on an angle.

Are you serious or is this all theory. ??? Wow. I cant see how the piston size can matter. If all the piatons touch that thick metal backing on the brake pads. Can some take a photo of these piston orientation on the calipers for me please. I feel like crap now. Damn. I just bought these. About the front and back of the axle. Thats a whole new idea to me. Just like the piston orientation. Crap:angry::angry:

Hmm. My diagram returned the rail to the cell not the surge tank.

4 inch back space on weld racing rims. And s14 rear brake down grade.