MJTru

Thank god I thought I forgot somthing in my build. What is the proper oil pressure at idle mate. I have a tomie oil pump and was just wondering because in the morning im installing a manual oil pressure gauge. I dont trust tye stock r32 gauge.

Wow. Im lost now. Where do I find the with or without internal register feature. ??? I will look over the FAQ section and see if I find anything. Whats a titania o2 sensor??. And whats the right part numbers for a sensor of that type.?? If you have it. I think im running normal sensors right now. The voltage starts about 0.04 and as the car runs they go up slowly. Can someone expain this in layman's term. Lol

I have a question here what grub screws are on the crank shafts. ???

I got a brand new sensor (o2) for my front turbo or front oxygen sensor for my rb26. But after I pluged it in my d jectro power fc went to 5.12v on that channel, and the rear one was at 0.04v. After a while of idling the rear one warms up and starts to move up slowly, but the front one isn't moving at all. Attached is the photo of the sensor I got brand new. And I'm lost as to why this is happening, all I can think of is there has to be two kinds of sensors for a gtr r32 rb26 motor. High to low or low to high voltage. Im just guessing here. I would appreciate any help.

I sent my power fc to FC-HAKO and I spoke to john, and these guys seem very knowledgeable on power fc repairs. He told me that my board is good and my injector driver was damaged which he replaced, but he is saying one or two channels on the NEC processor chip is dead and it needs to be replaced. He also went on to say that he can find the blank chips but there wont be no firmware on it and only apexi will have firmware. Guess its a copy write or something. So that kills the idea of buying a blank one. So does anyone have any damaged power fc for ecr33 or know of anyone at apexi that can help me out by providing me with a NEC processor chip with firware flashed already on the chip. Ive been trying so hard to fix this power fc. :wacko:

http://mobile.dudamobile.com/site/TheSkyLife?url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.skylife4ever.com%2F2011%2F01%2Fhicas-delete.html%3Fm%3D1

Yes I had two options. One was to remove the actual bulb but was not the best option. Next was to cut this wire to stop communication from hicas computer. It seemed to be the best solution. But I just wanted to know if it was the same as a r32 gtr. I will post the link used for the modification.

Have any photos of it. ????

I was wondering if I did the electrical part of this mod right. I took all the lines and solenoids out, one under the rear suspension area and the next up front by the intake manifold. Next I took all the hard lines off the bottom of the vehicle. I then looped the cooler line back in from the supply line for the solenoid that was around the intake manifold. The part I'm worried about is the modification of a wire that i should cut on the hicas ecu. The instructions I followed is for the gtr and was wondering if its the same for my r32 gts4? ?? I cut the green with white strip wire please check the attached photos for more detail. Thanks

Would be nice to know mate.

I pulled my plugs and seem like its running rich. And at one point it was hard to start. Once started it runs fine. Looking at idle my afr gauge was around 12s. I would have to go into my power fc and manually pull fuel out to get it to read around 14s or less. Im still waiting on some parts to reach then ill test and tune things. I have a strong feeling that my temp sensor is acting up.

Mate I agree with you. Run it hard kml. Like where does that idea come from. But I do agree in the whole theory of the process of braking in the motor. I do believe that today's technology can produce a motor that you can just beat off the bat or run hard, But caution is the prevention for cure. Lol. Its funny cause all you mentioned I did already. The aftermarket gauge and all. As well as the oil temperature gauge. Please dont get me wrong guys I thank all of you for you invaluable opinions. This mentality is what makes this site so strong. The motor sounds strong and I cant wait for my radiator aftermarket radiator to reach and drive the car.I will keep everyone posted.

I was thinking thr same thing. But its only for open circuit only I think.

Thanks mate. I just found out that its the same as an American 240sx 1996 to 1998. Ill pick one up from my local store tomorrow.

I know there is a sensor that controls fuel on my rb26 according to temperature, does anyone know how I can test the one I have now, and where can I buy a new one. I have a power fc and was also wondering if I can use that to see if the sensor is good or not. Thanks.

I just finished looking it up. I guess its time for light loads at different speeds. So I wont start it anymore. I need to drive it and induce a vacume to seat the rings. Thanks for the indirect explanation.

What you mean GTSBoy idling a new engine is bad. Hmmm. Im lost Mmkay. Kml:lol:

Thats the first thing I did as I was building the motor. I made sure the flow direction was right. After double and triple checking the systems flow direction. I can see how getting it wrong would cause major problems. Before this build I had mest the direction of the flow up. So this time I just didnt find the installation instructions. I started from the oil pickup and work my way through it. What not good about the grex oil cooler is the stamped arrows that point in the direction of the oil flow. There underneath the oil filter block. They should have placed them on top. Thats what caused me to mess it up my first time. But It didnt happen for a long time. In about 5 minutes I realized it right away. But that motor ended up spining a bearing in about 15 minutes of driving with no kind of hard load condition. Lol. Guess that mistake was what caused the failure. Im only noticing one problem right now from the day the motor started. My radiator system isnt pressurizing.

Since it happened I've been keeping an eye on tye oil pressure gauge religiously. But tye light never came back on. I haven't driven tye car as yet. But will be very copious about it. Im overhauling my front suspension before I take it for a drive but ive been lettingbthe motor idle every day on and of. For the first day it smoked a little but now I notice its stopped smoking tye light blue smoke. I believe that the light blue smoke is oil. I guess the oil rings are now worn in. Or seated. I didnt bore the block because it was in great shape.

A quick question here. Is keeping the oil cool better? I ask because that's the whole point behind getting an oil cooler right.?? So because I live in a Caribbean island thats always hot. Very close to florida. We have no winter here. This thermostat would make no sense wouldn't it. ?? If that is the case can I remove the thermostat from the housing and have it cool all the time. Or is it important to warm the oil up fast. ??

Interesting. Ive always wanted to do a build like that. I would use lower compression pistons if the head is that much smaller in the chamber.

Lol. I was thinking. Can he just use the neo head on a r33 rb25 skyline. Ive always wanted to do that cause it would be way easier than to convert a r33 rb25 head to solid lifters. IIRC. Only the intake would be different. And I think it as dual VTC. One of them would have to go.

I didnt release the air from the oil cooler tho. I pulled the cas sensor and crank the motor with no spark plugs in it to receive drag on the starter. So I crank the motor off and on untill oil was in the cooler. Then I started it up.

Thanks for all the info guys. But I had the car running and the light isnt coming on anymore. Its a fresh build. What stumped me was at idle around 850rpms the oil pressure was at half way on the gauge and the light was on. I cut the car off and restart it. It was still on butbtye gauge went to half. This is why I thought it had nothing to do with pressure and thought it might have been a temp light. Makes sense now that it the zero oil pressure light. I wounder what happened. Cause its not coming on anymore and how can it come on and the gauge was at half way mark. I think half way mark is 4.

Hmm. I just left the car to cool down for about an hour. Now tye red light is off. Im at it right now and will uodate again soon. Tye gts4 doesnt come with an oil temp gauage like the gtrs. I think. I dont see one