MJTru

Hi I just started my car and I notice after about 15 minutes of idle a red light came on right under the oil presaure gauge its tye same gauge but there is a light right under the zero mark. Is this a oil temp light??? Also what Canada cause the oil temp to het so hot at idle. I have a grex oil cooler with thermostate build inside. When I feel tye actual oil cooler its not hot but warm. The oil filter is a bit hotter than the oil cooler core.

Oh Thanks mate that was simple enough just wish I had a proper diagram for the installation.

I have a grex oil cooler kit for my rb26 build. I just finish installing it and was wondering what this valve for. Its it like a thermostat that only opens to cool the oil only when its hot. Or is it some sort of pressure valve.

Im using a gts76 which is way to big for 600hp. Im planning on down grading it to a PT 6262

Ok. That sounds like a plan. I was interested in higher rpms. But i think I should stick to my 600hp to 4 wheel goal and if I can get that at a reasonable rpms then do so. Which means these cam still have to go. Can stock rb 26 cam sustain 600hp. I also upgarded the rod bolts and piston pins like you said so if I wanted a little bit more power I would be on the safe side. A little bigger cam may help at lest say like 252- 9.15 I can do the relief myself. Or just stick to the stock cams.

Also ill have to send the head out have it ported. I really try to do most things myself. and never thought about opening up the ports. I always though with forced induction I could just pack the air in there. Lol. Im coming across sites that sells complete heads and setups for quite some cash. I guess I need to start somewhere. Now I understand that I wont get it right the first time, but I've build so mush rb motors, but always left the heads stock. Now it's time I start learning the tricks or what the heads needs. So I know all the duration and lifts on the stock cams that will be my base line. Ill try a few things using what we speak about here. Them I feel this will pave my path to understanding how to make more power above the stock rb26 redline. I really try to stay away from major machining work other than valve angle jobs and so forth. Sending the head out to have the ports machined wont probably happen at this time. But ive always appreciate guys that can take a certain condition and extract the most out of that given condition. It kind of separate the guys that just read the stuff and the ones that have true understanding of how these stuff works. Its kind of like having knowlage about somthing and having no experience which can be call wisdom. By no means am I being disrespectful here. Just explaining myself. I will have to start out slow at this head science, and learn as I go. I just wish I could find the optimal setup for what I have done so far. Cause it seems like when I go all out ill just find something more to do. Lol. Thanks for all your input. Its way better than a lumpy idle.

Hmmmm. I think for me to start working things out in increments GTSBoy how does a stock rb26 head stack up. Whats the max rpms before power drops off. I think we need a thread for people to compare there results using different head setups. It would be hard. Seems to me like rb26 bottom ends can spin really fast to 10k and stay with in safe mean piston speed even better with forged internals. 5000 fpm is what most guys say is the rule of thumb to be safe. At 10k the block is about 4800 fmp. It seems like the real potential is in the head. For this reason I wont stop until I get at least some more rpms. If not 10k at least 9. Lol

I have always wanted to try this. But just ended up going with all new forged parts.

Wow ill have to pull the head to use a fly cutter to relief the cylinder head. From what I have heard the max lift is around 9.5 all depending on the cams base circle. So let me understand somthing here. The duration of the cam alone wont make power so matching the duration and lift is the science. ?? A cam with lots of duration but not enough lift will not move as much air killing the turbo. So matching of the two is whats important.??? Now as the duration and lift providing match right can lead to more rpms and power production with sustainable hp higher in the rpms. Keeping in mind you will loose a bit down low as the duration and lift you goes up. ??? In saying this how does the stock oem gtr heads stack up?? Whats the max power and rpms that oem head would do before you loose power. RPM and power. ??? This is a great discussion.

Wow I have alot to learn. No I haven't gotten the the head relieved and as your saying this its making sense in my mind. When you say that you're meaning that the bigger cam lobs on the camshafts are going to hit the aluminum on the head before it comes in contact with the lifters right????. Damn. Ill have to pull the head off again to do that. I wounder if there a cam setup thats a little bit easier than the 260 at 10.8 lift. IIRC the max lift without relieving the head is 9.5mm So what setup would you recommend using with what I have? using stock buckets. Keeping in mind I just want to drag race the car. But im limited to the lift. ???? I wouldnt mind dropping the rpms eather.

Ok sounds great so far. Ill place the order tomorrow but start the car up and see how the cams I have right now works untill they arrive. Then do a comparison of the two. Ill order the 260 -10.8 mm lift cams for both intake and exhaust. Then the lifters as you mentioned. Next ill have to reshim the head so measure and order shims accordingly, But before I install them ill double check if the springs will suit the setup. Im planning on running the oem gear box but making arrangements to install a dog engagement gear set from PPG. This should also help with gear changes and turbo spool. I want to keep the 4wd system and dont know of any companies that can beef up the stock oem transmission for drag racing. Thanks for you help mate. I have so much money in this damn motor it would be a shame and by no means will I give up until im happy. Im looking for a 10s pass.

Do you think the valve spring that I choosed will work with the 260 at 10.8mm lift cams. ?? Tomei mention that ill need to use there lifters with that cam setup. Which is no problem.

Kml. I know what you mean, I wouldnt state it if I could have gotten in trouble. But to brake it down for you. I actually live in the states but race in the Bahamas. Over here we get all the RHD cars that I like. racing here in the bahamas isnt as strict as the states not even close. Shit over here we can even drink and drive not saying its a good thing to do now. All im saying is its way easier to managae the risks as everyone knows everyone. As for your help with the cams setup ill try the 260 with 10.8 mm lift after I research it a little bit more. The cylinder head is a new area for me and as these guys keep bring up topics its becoming more clear to me. My experience with it like everything else I will just have to learn through my actual setup. I hate having to try setups without having an idea of how it will work. I usually think up of a solution and see how it comes out. Thanks mate.

Oh and I spent like a day shimming the head. It was a fun process and would love to do it again. All of this is from information I got from this site. And there isnt to much guys that uses and do as well as update there progress that I know of on this site. In depth of course. I never could have post photos without a big hassle. This app makes it so much easier.

Yes I started like two threads on the topic of cams and preparing my cylinder head. Sorry if this one seems to have more replies than mine. I have not made 80 plus threads on this topic. Lol Ok how about I list what I have done to my cylinder head and then each of you can give me some insight on cam selection or use oem set up. I wanted to do 10k off the line but its obvious thats not going to happen without a serious learning curve. Whats funny is the only reason I even entertained the idea is because I have a r33 with just a lot off bolt on parts and launch that at 9200rpms. With stock internals. But I do know its not good to do and the power will drop off. I also know that its way more stress to raise the rpms than to raise the boost at lower rpms. Rpm's kill straigh up. Well as for the cylinder head the first mod I did was clean up the bowls under the valaves. In doing so I followed instructions from couple of head guys that menstioned the same things. There was even a step by step procedure I found with photos and all. It was about just Not opening the ports more about cleaning up the machining marks and making the air have less turbulence under the valves. So I did so I made nice transitions in the bowls and removed the ridges that factory machining left behind. Next I removed the humps in the exhaust ports. This took a while to figure out if there was enough material left in the walls. Every drag guy I spoke to said if im running custom turbo manifilds to get rid of them. To make sure I had an old rb26 head and chopped it in pieces. Theres more than enough material left over. About the same as the opposite side with no hump. Next I went with supertech springs and titanium retainers. The specs on the springs are as follows. Well ill just take a photo of the specs. I also got the titanium retainers to match. Next I should mention thats its a brand new cylinder head. I did the valves my self no to mention there all oem valaves. now that im thinking of it 10k was ambitious from my part. So now that you guys know my head setup which in the past I've never done anything to the heads and made good usable power. What you think what should I do. Im going to drop the cams I know this much.

Shit I was saying the same thing long time ago. But I kept getting "its drag racing of course it will work." I build around and knowing its not a real all out drag car. Its just what I intend to do with the car. Thats all. I dont even race the car on a real drag strip with track bite, all I do is illegal street drag racing to me its more fun. Kml. I will take those cams and put them up on display as for sticking them up my ass. Lol. Hell no. Lol. Do anyone want to buy hks 272 at 8.8mm lift. Lol

Sorry if im in posting in the wrong place. GTSBoy. But it seems like when I was trying to find out everyone was away on vacation. I realy dont care to brake things learning. But by no means enjoy it this is why I try to learn by asking. I have never really build a full out race car in my class. As I do agree just doing it for the sound is insane. As for the intake not designed for 10k I can swallow that and im willing to change that. But isnt this forced induction and what and how much woukd the intake really matter. Please explain in detail and help not just me ecmveryone for that matter out. Our intuition will lead the way after that. As for the valve train I have listed part numbers of the springs and retainers as welm as asking if they will be adequate for my set up. Everyone was on vacation. What do you mean when you say. "Whats the duration at 0.050" im lost. How do I measure this. Cause I hate not know and understanding the setup. I shoukd just burn this car down before I even flipping try 10k.

Damn I deleted the photos out my phone. But im after velocity thats why I never ooened up the ports. But choosed to just clean it up. What im doing is not a 100% drag as you woukd see the top end guys do it. I just street drag race. And as for the lift is close to stock lift. But I do know its 272 duration. Whicj is weird. I got these cams with the motor and couldn't finf the lift so I mesured them and its about 8.8 mm lift.

Well I didnt really port it out. I just cleaned up the factory matching marks. I also took the hunp out tge exhaust ports. I have spring and retainers and valve to work with the cams. But ive always been asking for help with the cams. But obe one seems to want to help in deatail. Guess in the future ill just have to pay for the help. But I have already plan on swapping them out for oem one. I have lots of experience with those. Ill post photos of the ports

Ive been trying to know if my hks 272 cams will work for my drag setup. Im running a built motor and its for only drag racing but it seems like people are using the title "DRAG" as an excuse to answer if it will work or not. Im planning on running 10000rpms off the line. Will this be enough??? No one ever answered me in detail. I wouldnt do this build for just the sound but I would choose to do it for that gain I would have according to the propose of the car. Which is only for drag racing max hp at WOT, and not for how it sounds at idle. Here is some photos of my setup. Oh the damper will be changed out thats just a mock up one. Details please guys

Its an amazing peace. I also like the way Rob deals with his customers. Fast shipping and honest. I will be buying two more soon

Ok I just got my oil pan. Here are some photos.

Ok I just finished up the valve clearance on my build. Sorry it took so long I was waiting on a new crank. Well what was good about the whole thing is once I mesured tye first time and found how much I had to take of the shims I only had to install the cams once and they all came into specs. One of my questions is. I noticed that some are just a bit off eather a little slack or a bit tight no more that .001 will this be ok.? I have them on a big peace of card board. Check the attached. Its a little getto I was planning on cleaning it up and posting it but im feeling sleepy. Lol. The exhaust side at the bottom is the finishing measurements. T under the numbers means tight. Im hoping this is ok. ???

I didnt buy a new one mate. I have another r32 gtr for parts. Its rotten as hell. So all I keep it for is parts.

Mate it looks like a pain. But I guess ill have to do as you say. I had an old honda civic and the inner part is all I had to replace. I just pulled it out and push the new one in. But I guess the gtr's arnt like that. Thank god that both cars have no engine. Thanks mate