MJTru

I have 3 cars that are all 4wd vehicles. The 2 gtrs I really like. So I might just get 2 os88 for those 2. The other one is a mix up machine. It's a gts4 with all gtr parts. All 3 cars are good for about 700 to 800 hp very easily. So I will have to find a cheaper solution for the gts4. Out of a gear sets and a centerplate being os giken. I might as well try the os close ratio gear set for 2800 from rhdjapan japan. The gts4 runs small wheels and street tires so they tend to spin. I think that helps with stress on the drive train. The power glide will be my very last option. After I checked around that's about 10k plus for the complete setup.

I totally understand the warning. Thanks mate. 8 months my god. I better get this order in asap.

I have made my mind up. 88 is the way. I see you mention in another thread the oiling problem and a cover that was needed for the breather hole. How did that go.? Your good now. Also have a photo of what you did.? Would be helpful. Also the sensor in the box what was your reason for moving it.?

Yeah. I totally agree, as bad as I hate the idea of going down this road. I feel I have no choice. I was just putting some ideas out there to see if there was a cheaper solution, but seems like there's none. Forgive me if I sound uninformed at times. I have never been in this situation before. Drive line issues. What a drag. How did your install go with the os88 if you don't mind shinning some light on the situation. I'm planning on sourcing one from rhdjapan. Also did yours take the 4 months there saying it takes to build. ??

Thanks for that link mate. I was wondering has anyone used the os giken close ratio gear set. Looks like a Cheap in between budget build. I see that's offer from rhdjapan with center plate for around 2800 usd. It's just a thought.

I really hate to go power glide as I still.want the car to be some what streetable. I'm wondering if I do the gear set and center plate of that will be the solution, as I don't feel I'm making enough power to need a os88. Especially at 11k plus. and a turn around time of 4 months. Here is another queation. If I do go powerglide can I still keep the 4wd system. And where do I source this kind of setup from. ??

I was looking around and a pfitzner 800hp 1st to 4th gear set seems right in line with what I need. Has anyone used these.

Think I'm just going to buy os88

Hello everyone. I own a r32 gtr thats highly modified. But no gear box mods. For the first time I'm braking Mt gear box one right after the other. I drag race and over the years I have been building more and more power. After my first gear box failure I right away ordered 3 extra gear box. On a side note I drag race on the air port strip that has no track bite. I keep on breaking 3rd gear no matter how easy it try to shift the gears. I'm simply tired of this. Here is my question. What do you guys think would be the easiest and cheapest way to hold the stress I'm putting on these gear box. What's crazy is on my lowest setting 10psi I'm breaking by gear box. Like wtf. I drive hard and I'm unforgiving in hoe I shift. Would a PPG get set work or would your guys recommend a full sequential box. Can anyone provide links to the parts I'll need. I'm simply sick and tired of these box problems.

There all the same from what I've seen. Like mentioned above cable speedo and electronic. That's about it.

I think you can get software online that can decipher the code. I think you need 3 sets of numbers. Maybe off the bcm steering column and some where else. Enter these numbers and the software give the pin.

Yeah, that link is just brake line kit for calipers. Well I was talking to my mate today and we came up with just extending all the wires for the fuse box. To the inside of the car. Some where under the dash. I hope I have room down there. I'll very much need to do this as the r33 gtr is so tight under the hood.

Hello guys. I'm about to strip the crap out of my r33 gtr to do a ground up build. I have the motor well on its way to being complete and need some advice on how to clean up and free up the engine bay. I have seem some gtrs out there with no fuse box's under the hood and no abs pumps. Basically I would like to know what all can be removed. Keeping the car steerable. Also keeping in mind having the lights off inside if possible. Any help would be appreciated. I'm still searching the web and this fourm. Find it abit overwhelming to read all the info out there. But I'll press ahead. Thanks in advance..

I'm is exactly the same way mate. I see you have a EGT on every runner? I take it that's it's for individual cylinder tuning.? It's very nice. Do you cap them all off after the tune.?? Sorry for all the questions mate. I think if the runner for the gate was just angled abit when it was welded to the collector it would be way better at controlling boost at lower pressure. Keeping it angle as much as it can in the direction of the gas flow.

Whats funny is as old as this book may be. Haltech was still in it. Lol.

Anywhere in the collector would work well only if it can be angled in the direction of the gas flow from what I understand will control boost the best. And the gas/flow doesn't have to change direction in such a hard angle. But the plus is a different story and like GTSBoy said if there is a merge anywhere before/or an opportunity to do so will reduce the response of boost coming in faster. Just my 2 cents

I believe the problem was the direction of the gas flow. I have a book on turbo design and setup. It's always best to have the gate plumb in a angle that best for gas flow. So the best would be off the turbine housing, as to get that same angle off the manifold would require lots of space which most setups don't have. It's the best way to control boost. But from what I gather here it's all about the way the pulse hits the turbine wheel. And just adding the gate on the turbine housing is just like having a fake twin scroll manifold, hense it will control boost better as it's easier to release the exhaust gas/pressure. But I would say if it's not separated all the way to the gate valve like most have mentioned. It's not a true twin scroll. It's about faster boost not to much the control of it. I do agree that the control is important.

I was thinking that it would leak right where the gate valve meets the divided part in the pipe. I assembled the gate and send a camera inside to check if it leaks, by seeing light. It's not perfect but very very close. Make me think what would happen when it heats up on expansion if it would leak even more. Or seal better. I guess in drag racing all that's not to important, but I wanted this style in the event I wanted to use it on another setup. I do agree that my reasoning for this was all the piping/plumbing. I always get my manifold from Kyle at 6 boost. Hands down the best for the cash.

Are these real twin scroll.??

I support Australian products all the time. I just got 2 manifolds from Kyle at 6 boost. To date I have ordered 6 or 7. Next I ordered 2 extended sumps from Rob at face fab. So I really don't mind. Oh. Don't forget a power fc pro from an Australian mate. Lol I'm still looking at fuel setup other guys are using. I could however use an rpm signal switch or boost signal switch to stage the next pump, when running the pro. But I'm thinking about using the Haltech ps2000. I have joined there fourm and seeing if I can work things out. Last time I mest with it. I noticed it has 2 method of tuning. Next I had to setup the actual timing. Like using a timing light with a spark plug wire on number one cylinder to get the right timing and then input it. Next was fuel pressure and a whole bunch of other stuff just to start up. One of my problems was getting a good wiring diagrams of the plug and play harness for the pre-made harness that came with the ecu. Next was extra pins for the plugs to run extra stuff. Like outputs. I feel all of this is just me being lazy. Hence why I like the power fc. I'll give it a good this time. I know I'll need help.

Spend the change in Power FC Pro Boy never letting it go aye. Lol I see some duel 460 surge tanks by radium. For around 5 hundred dollars. Looks clean and simple. Do you really feel that lift pump will be good enough.?? We're would you recommend returning it from the fpr. To surge tank or fuel tank. Also with dual pumps would I need a fuel cooler. I'm looking for the simplest setup. Also was looking at fuel lab stuff. Like there variable pumps.

Well after my r32 gtr fuel pump setup. We all came to the conclusion that it was over kill. I going for 800 hp and may run E85 later on. I looking to do the simplest setup, intank would be great. I'm not looking to upgrade alternator or nothing that crazy. But I am willing to run a separate power supply. I just think it's hard to do in a r33 gtr due to the tank design. I'm just wondering what people has done to achieve these goals. I'm still searching and hope by making this thread, maybe I'll get some new up today suggestions.

Sorry if I offended anyone. Other 3 wheels arrive on monday. I'm thinking hard on doing the stoptech BBK and a minimum spacer. Maybe like 5mm or so.

Seen that video some time ago. That's hilarious. Talk about perfect timing.