MJTru

Thanks for clearing that up. I do understand that more modern ecus have launch control, but that's not safe eather is it. Cause its still bashing it. ??? But people seems to like the bashing more on an ecu stand point than running a unit to control it like the gizzmo launch interface. ??? So in shirt you guys are telling me it's not good for the motor. But it doesn't mean I want to use it all the time. I just wanted to use it when the big money is being bet. Lol. So saying that. If I had to choose which one would work the best or you would recommend. Thanks.

Hmm. I heard of this. But what do you mean when you say bash the limiter. Sorry i don't understand the term. I can understand it's bad for the turbo, but can't see the motor getting hurt other than wear wise. what is the way the Bee R limiter and Gizzmo control cause motor failure. More importantly why is all the stand alone like motec, halter, and so on safer than the Gizzmo or haltech? ?? The method with your foot that you mention is riding the clutch to load the car so that it can start boosting at a the starting line before you let it go.???

Hi. I'm looking for a divice (unit)that can launch my R33 GTR off the line much easier or more consistant. I seem to cant get a consistent launch everytime. I have done a bit of reading and found that the power FC pro works, but super hard to find. The next that came up is the Bee R launch controller. But the best so far that I can tell would be the gizzmo launch interface unit. Before I go ahead and purchase the unit I would like to hear from any of you concerning the pros and cons that you may have learnt using any one of the above mentioned units. And the idea of launching with boost is just a bonus. I don't drive my car to often and run it around 10 to 14 psi. The motor is fully stock with the exception of a 6 boost manifold GT3582R turbo with twin 38mm gates. Fuel pump and rail. FMIC, along with a power fc. L- Jetro. It's has most of the supporting mods for power other than injectors. I leaning towards the gizzmo launch interface. And was wondering if it can work on my car using the power i have. If so does anyone have a wiring diagram i can look at before i go ahead and buy it. Thanks mates

GTSBoy you mentioned that you have done the sand paper method before. ?? How did that work out for you. Is the motor still running. Do you also agree that the first .002 mm is hardened material. ???? Never the less if the shims were sanded down what might be the effects of doing is. On the valve train this is. I had some extra shims and cut one in half, but it all seems the same to me. Do they mean the shims are treated to be harder.??? Can some one also post a link to were I can find custom shim made at spesific sizes. Thanks.

Roflmfao. GTSBoy. I work with lots of japanese cars in freeport bahamas. I also work with lots of germans and yanks at my work place FCP (freeport container port) Its funny to be able to do both, but I totally understand your point. As I always hear good comments from both sides. That was classic as I hear it all the time. Its funny how each person from a different place knocks the other system. But are advocate to the system they learned.

Lol. Yes it does. I actually like metric system but dont tell my friends that. Lol that was so funny. Ok I give up ill just do the oem specs and hope for the best. Intake at .45mm Exhsust at .38mm Intake at .017 Exhaust at .015 Thare all should be happy now.

Thanks GTSBoy. I do think its simple math to. Its just a pain. Do you think if I was to run .012 on the intake and .014 on the exhaust it will be fine. I only ask because if thats the case I can clean up the exhaust side quite easy. The intake I can work out with new shims or extras I might have around. Thanks mate

Thanks thats was a great explanation. Actually I was going to mention that last night but fell asleep. I was looking around on this forum and found that same answer. Lol. But I also fund a a member than runs .012 on intake and .014 on the exhaust. He never mentioned have any issues with those settings. What I found interesting was the tips he mentioned can be used on the shims. He mention that you can use a wet dry sand paper to get the shims in the right size if you arnt to far off, and that you can also clean up the edges so that it can fit in the retainers/buckets better. What do you guys think about using this method to gain like .002 th. of an inch. I got a new head I figure that all my vaules were going to be to big but it seems that they are to small. You mentioned moving around shims can also work. But that idea would only work keeping in mind of the shim size and if the difference is coming from the shim and not the fact that someone grind the back part of the valve. If thats the case then moving shims won't help.

Lol. Im not sure if those are the spec from nissan but I remember seeing them as well. I was hoping for a screen shot from the manual. Well im guess no one knows why the exhaust would be tighter than the intake. All im saying is that the exhaust valves sees way more heat and will expand way more than the intake side. Also 95% of the motor ive worked on the exhaust side the looser side. Or the bigger side. Im left to wonder why the exhaust side would be tighter than the intake. If that is the case then all my specs needs to be changed. But I have room to work with. As the shims can be machined thinner. This will make the gaps bigger. The biggest one was .016.

I understand all points. Can someone tell me what nissan consider the right specs are. From my past experience with engine building the exhaust should always be bigger do to thermal exspasion. You all will have to explain to me as why the exhaust should be the tighter side and why. Good luck with that mates. These are different cams from stock but are hks 272 duration and 8.5 lift. Same as stock. But bigger duration. Not new but has been used for about 5000 miles. Never the less if I was to do the math I would still try to place all intake valves at .010 and all exhaust at .013 or the most at .014 which most exhaust valve clearance are at rigth now on the exhaust side.

Yes I just finish reading and found the best balance. I found that I should run .010 on the intake side .013 on the exhaust side. The stock specs are on the loose side but will work. I just finished taking measurement On the exhaust side all are about .014 in the exception 4 of them. Out of the four 3 of them are at .012 and one is at .010 now that one is to tight. On the intake side 6 of them are at .014 and 4 of them are at .012 and 1 is at .016 and another at .010. What do you guys think?? Well im thinking to get that one one the exhaust side thats .010 to .014 or around there. The intake has more thats off. So if im going to get all these to .010 intake and .013 exhaust I will need to buy all new shims. I will have to pull all shims one at a time measure them and add or subtract the difference. Damn this is hard work. Wounder what a job like this would cost. Lol

Hi im having issues posting. I would like to know the rb26dett valve clearance for the intake and exhaust valves please. I think the exhaust is .015 +/- 1 But I hqve no idea what is the intake.

Thats fine but it shouldnt be too far apart. Make sure all air filters are clean. Then you can inspect the turbos. At idle it should be about or around 1 volt. Or close to it. Damn I got z32 afm.

To much seat pressure is not good. You need to know what it is you want first. Then build around that. I dont see a need for so much lift. 10.5 and higher. In short ro much seat pressure just loads up everything in line with to much stress. Thats just my to cents. But I guess I should have asked you what are your hp goal. Sorry

Tailor made. Do you work for fcp. ??? Off topic. Thats intesting that the vq25 is stronger. we learn everyday.

Well as an update I decided to go with the stock valve. I also mesure the cams and found that they are stock lift. 8.5 with 272 duration.

Well I just took the humps out today. There is so much material for the stud that is basically the same as the opposite side. But after removing it I feel as nothing was compromise. That just left me woundering why it was there in the first place.. I do think that it makes a difference in performance do to the fact that every article I read on making the rb26 a power house its always removed. Wellas for material thats felt over I feels its plenty. The same as the opposing side. My big scare is setting the valve clearance now. Now that like a half an hour ago I finished installing the valves. It looks really good. I cant believe what the manual is saying the gap or clearance is. If I remember right the intake is .045 cold and the exhaust is .038 cold. This sound to big to me. Know that I im sure im wrong. Its say +- .003 is this right.

This is new to me. What you are saying is the the vq35de isnt as strong in its stock form as a vq25de???

Lol. Lmfao. Man this is a funny thread. I dont even know where to start help wise. A gtx42 is way to big for your 500hp goal. GTX3582R would do the trick and leave room for a little more. Good luck and search it really helps.

This is funny. I can remember in 2010 I build an rb25 just to blow it up with all left over parts I had spin the motor to 9200 rpms everytime at 25 psi on pump gas. Lol. I know stupid. But it was fun. Finally after 6 months of street driving the oil pump failed (short ) collar crank. On tear down the head was all ok guilds and all. No cracks or chips. Nothing. I just wish I could say the same for the bottom. So after seeing this my conversation with redR racing ended as I wanted to convert to solid lifters. But its to expensive. It was easier to use a neo head and just change my intake. If my memory serves me right. Finally I just opted to go with a gtr motor. I have never looked back since. I now have a r33 gtr 32. And a gts4 wish Im building a rb26 motor for just drag racing at the moment. RedRracing had mentioned that I dont need to go with bronze guide thats for the old skyline heads that had oil lubrication issues and these newer heads are way better its not needed and they wear out faster. But the friction reduction is good I would guess. From my experience I just dont see a need for them unless funds are no problem. If you are olanning on going all out and a car thats build for a specific purpose like drag. Expecting to rebuild in about a year. You can go with those. Other wise stocks are fine from my experience.

I just finished the clean up of the Bowl area. But still cant make my mind up on the exhaust humps. Well, I also cleaned up each stock valves and notice that 11 of them are compromised. It sad to say that at some point in the old motors life those broken valve guides fell in the chamber and got caught up by the valves at some point. So im looking at ferrea valves cause I was told that yhey are the only ones that build valves in standard oem sizes. Im thinking that I can grind seat or slap seat them myself and shim the lifters myself. As I have done this kind of work before. So I feel no way in doing it again.

GTSBoy. Damn. If you were in florida Iwould have invited and paid for your trip the freeport bahamas. Lol. I do go to florida from time to time. But never the less it nice to here that your over there. I truly hope you have fun and remember not to work to hard. Lol

Those are some good numbers mate. I would love to see a video of it on a dyno. As you are right where I would like to be or around that area for a better word. So im now thinking harder than ever to get rid of the humps. In its simplest form it should free up better exhaust flow in my mind. But after speaking to an old head guy. He told me the same thing you are saying or did for that matter. In short he mentioned that at the stock limits or set up. It may work better. But at higher levels of airflow it will become restrictive. He really never did say do one or the other. But he left it to me. I guess he was saying only what I know and how I choose to build the motor will dictate my reason for taking it out. He felt me with a head ache.

I have a PT 6262 and a gtx3582 and finally a PT GTS 75. But for this motor im planning on using the PT6262. As GTSBoy recommended. You are right about the valve seats and not mixing the materials up. But building a race motor and going or choicing to go titanium valve it would come naturally that the mating surface should be of adequate material as well. You are right. ??? You also mention the guide im interested to hear some other peoples ideas about the subject as well. Along with what has been tried to obtain a 9000k rpm limit safely. As I have yet to do so.

Yes it will be running on petrol. 600 is not much but its good for me. Lol. This motor is being placed in a gts4 with gts4 front and rear diff. Piggaz. If you dont mind whats the power that your motor is putting out. ????