MJTru

Hi mate I just got my R33 GTR about 3 days ago, and i noticed a couple of things, Coming from a GTST, I was woundering what the A-LSD light of the RPM gauge does?????? I also notice that when ever i take a hard corner that the front wheel torque split gauge moves and i can feel the front wheels grippin, is this normal??? The car only has 13950 km's on the speedo. Next what does the little motor on the rear lower part of the car does??? The motor is across from the muffler. Over all the car is way better that a gtst. I've always woundered if it's really worth the money and yes its more than worth the money. Does anyone know where i can find some info on how the 4WD system works on the GTR. Thanks again mate.

I can remember seeing transient throttle in my heltech ps2000 but not in the power fc, i'll check again

Can i tell the power Fc to target a differnt afr Like 15.5 rather than 14.7 ?????? or i have to tune the low to medium parts of the map????

Thats realy lean mate, The numbers i use are as follows At max load i want about 12.2 knowing that at max load ten percent more fuel is the best for power and consumption as well as keeping the burn cool. I tend to use 12.2 or 12 for safety. Now at low loads i've always woundered whats the limit i can go and never went over 14.7. At medium lowed i use around 13. Now heres a good question. The egt gauge should tell you how hot things are getting. The next question is at what temp does the turbo and engine fail. That i dont real know I would guess around 900c.???? If i know that, then it would be fare to say i can lean it out untill i see a high EGT reading.???? Boy back to the tuning lessons. lol. am i on the right track, keeping in mind that everyone that i talk to about tuning has there own ideas, and nothing seems to be solid stuff. I take it all in and reaserch the answers so all the answers really do help. I agree that the ecu will target a afr of 14.7, but this is only at a certain point right?? ok so now that feed back is off and we are at high loads it will no longer target it to 14.7 but what i have in the maps right??? well thanks again mate.

Yes i have the MAF sorted out, i'm using 2 30POO z32 MAF's. But i was just wondering if i tune the car and like you say don't use the o2's, wouldn't this make the car burn more gas at low loads. with the o2 turned off the car will run off the maps all the time (open loop) It wouldn't be able to be efficient?? It's all in the tune i guess. In my head what your saying make sense, but I just cant get my head around it. At closed loop the car self adjust the fuel according to the inputs from the O2 sensors, and at some piont of WOT it goes to open loop and runs of the maps right? So in short my low end tune has to be good too. I would have to tune the whole map and not just the high loads points, But from low to medium and high spots. Over the last five years i have really learnt how to tune all on my own with the help of SAU. If what i have mentioned is on the right track then i feel as if i can do it with somee time. R31Nismoid whats the turbo set up your using to get the horse power goals. I'm looking at around the same power. Kyle from 6 boost mentioned to me that i should use a t3 split pulse manifold with twin 38mm tial gates, for the best response and power. He mentioned that i will get 20+ pounds of boost around 4500 rpms. I think that these numbers are with a fully build motor. I plan on building the motor myself, And my goals are about the same as yours. Is there another parts of going single turbo i should know about?? Thanks Mate

I just got me a Nissan R33 GTR. I Have Kyle from 6boost building me a manifold that’s a twin scroll T3 one. I’m planning on using a power FC (L-jetro) the manifold will have twin 38mm Tial waste gates and the turbo of choose is The GTX 3582r. What I was wondering is how I will run the 2 MAF sensors and the 2 O2 oxygen sensors. For the MAF sensor I got a HKS divider pipe. This pipe goes from two MAF sensors to one collector, kind of like a y style fitting just much bigger. Now how do I run the 2 oxygen sensors? Do I just weld the 2 bungs on the down pipe?? Or is there a way just to use one o2 sensor? Thanks mate

Thanks Mate, and at that price for those two little pipes, i can now consider buying them lol. The price is half mate. what savings. thanks again mate.

wow those dumps by HPI cost alot. are they really that bigger than the rest????

Beer Baron you make a lot of sense. Well what i have in mind is this, First go to the bank and put aside 30k for an engine build. I was looking at the Tomie stroker kit to spool these GTSS mutch faster, A Tomie oil pump with ristictors in the block. Extra head oil return, As for the head it will be mostly stock. Just a set of valve springs and cams. The headers will be from 6boost (Kyle) The HKS turbos and full exhaust as big as possible down pipe, with FMIC. split fire coils, Clutch Triple carbon with fly weel the rest of money will go in for the small stuff like injectors ECU, Fuel pump with line and regulator, LSD, good set of GTC's 18's with advan Ao45's all round. A set of Tanabi coil overs. Defi gauges, etc. I just want the car to be a fast street car. More responsive than power. I cant wait to see how a gtr feels. I've made a lot of power from the RB25det, but always had lifter problems, But with the GTR beeing solid lifters, thats in the past. Even after solving the lifter problems, The GTST just didn't have the traction, and i didn't feel like building my suspension up. Any other ideas MR. Baron. When you make sense people call you MR. lol.

I like the power fc, Haltech has no knock vs timing, Witch i dont like. My 2 cents.

You gave me the best answer yet. clap clap. lol. You are right, i should drive it. I have never driven a GTR before, its always been highly moded GTST's. The GTSS, are these stock GTST turbos that you are refering to. OK so 800 is too high, Lets drop it to 500hp or 600. I will google the GTSS turbos and see what they are all about. Really mate i looked at MInes R34 and they are using two HKS gt2530, and that thing pulls like crazy. You are right about the lagg of a GTR, takin a closer look at mines GTR the boost comes in over 4000 RPM's, About 4500 is full boost. Look at the attached link for the vid of Mines skyline that i'm talking about. The 34 and 33 are different?? i think one has Vtech (VTC) is this right. I want to build the car off the same specs as Mines GTR. High HP GTRs don't look as fun as a well rounded one. Thanks Mate, and grate answer.

Its funny that you mentioned that, i was just reading up on the new EFR series turbos. They seem to big to fit on a twin setup, The exhaust housing seems to long. I can be wrong. But for now it seems that its the HKS 2530's that are the winner. Thans SCotT that ws a good answer. I will readd up on these some more.

ok plesae look at this link and tell me that i don't know how to build a car. This is one of many that i built.Now for just one sec, lets say all addtional mods are met. What turbos will do the job? I did search this site page after page, what i did notice is that new turbos are coming out like crazy. So i had a good idea for what size i'm looking at, but wanted to know what's new out there that people have been using. Like is there a gt25 with a billet wheel that can out perform the HKS 2530's. Thats harsh to say, i know nothing about building a car, You are right in a sense as i'm always willing to learn, even from people like you. lol.

Yes i agree, but this is just a starting point before i go in the motor. I just need a set of turbos that can supply the air for 700hp or so. I don't mind giving up a little bit of power for the response. I want it to be very fun to drive intown from light to light, and have a lot of grunt in the quarter mile. Hanaldo what is IBTL ??????????? Does anyone know of billet wheel turbos that are gt28's????

So, i finally gat a GTR R33 1995. Its being shipped from Japan as to speak. I'v been thinking of a turbo upgrade, After searching the site and google, i'm a little lost. I'm looking for 700 to 800 HP with a very fast response. I was looking at the GT28rs series turbos. Then the HKS GT2530. These work Good on the mines R34 GTR. First i plan on getting the oil and water pump changed alomg with the timing belt. Can Anyone recomend any new turbos that i can use for this HP goal. I'm looking for a very fast spool, max boost at about 3500 RPM's. Thanks Mate.

I pushed the car hard on sunday at the tracks, Still no noise. Well i'll just have to hope for the best. Thanks everyone cheers.

I was thinking about doing that, but I’ve never rebuild lifters before. I just might give it a try, I can remember some one giving me a brake down on rebuilding the lifters, Right here on SAU. Now I know its the lifters and not the bottom end or big bearing. At 15psi I'm only getting about 19 knock levels. That’s good and the check engine light don't even flash (power fc). I know its not pinging or getting detonation. After seeing that the knock was low I then used A head set to listen for knock and its really good, going on boost i can hear a little ping for a slight sec. This is ok, as its no where near the last motors pinging levels. All the above mention ideas are good ones, and I can tell that you guy's really are into these cars according to your answers. I like the fact the some one said to use WMI system. I already ordered one from E-bay, and I’ve been reading up on it. I was surprised to find out the window washer fluid is made from methanol. That’s cool. Now back to the topic at hand. Using the WMI system is ok and all, but lifters are a bigger problem. Is the GTR's buckets the same? And do you guy's know if a machinist can make them work??? What’s the gap clearance between the cam and buckets for solid setup? ????? If i was to go solid, I would need to know this. Also going solid, would put my mind at ease. From what the last motor was doing I know I can run a higher boost level with right tune and fuel. I had some idea that the last motor would have failed, Its just that I didn't understand detonation. So looking at the check engine light flashing, and the engine not braking right away. I thought that all will be ok. Later on I understand that detonation kills over time and that’s what happened. Well when i said that the motor blowed up. That was a over statement. I had a lifter failed do to cracked ring landings. This caused the blow by to push all the oil in the catch tank, leading to a oil deprived engine. This is when I noticed the lifter slapping. I swapped them out for a good set and it was the same. I then pulled the head, and that’s when i noticed the pistons were eaten out, and # 6 cylinder had a broken ring that slapped against the head. I then started over from scratch, I didn’t even reuse a single part. Ok, still no noise after pushing it at 12 psi, I Drive the car almost everyday, the oil pressure goes up and down. Some day's it's low and some day's its high. I hooked up a good mechanical gauge off the oil filter housing, and when the factory one reads low I went under the hood and that one was reading 30-35psi at 800RPM's. When I rev it goes all the way to about 110 PSI It max's the gauge out at a 160Psi if I rev it hard. So oil pressure is good, and the factory gauge is shit. Do you guy's think that these lifters just needed a brake in period. ????

It would be nice to know of a suppler down here. I heard that the z32 300zx twin turbo has the same lifters. does anyone know if this is true.???

Well boost did kill the motor do to detonation. the fuel here is crap. its something like 93 octane. 25psi with that will kill it. As for me thinking that its lifter, i build engines all the time, for years now and i know what lifters sound like. I drove the car home a while ago, No sounds, but i noticed higher oil pressure. I'm lots as to that. I do agree that a stock head can take 25psi. My last motor did that with no problems lifter wise. Because of the slowly dying bottom end, it all went to hell. Well we must keep in mind that 25psi is close to the limits for hydraulic (oil) lifters, if not to close. so running it at that level hard is a bad idea. Ok I’m just assuming here, I'm an opened minded guy, by no means trying to brag. this would just be my thinking.???? I may be way off. thanks for all your thoughts keep it comeing<BR style="mso-special-character: line-break"><BR style="mso-special-character: line-break">

Hi mates I just finished rebuilding my rb25det after blowing up the last one (det) 2 much boost on pump gas. Well the first thing that happened was all the oil blowed into the catch tank, and then the lifters failed. After pulling the engine down and finding that the forge pistons were damaged. I didn't want to reuse anything, so i started fresh. I got 2 motors and gear boxes from e-bay. And rebuild them both, one being for another car and one for my R33 Skyline. Now The last motor worked well lifter wise, But after moding the crank and installing the crank collar i then installed 2x 1.5mm restrictors in the block (N1 oil pump) leaving the VTC restrictors alone. Next i installed an extra head oil return and fed it to the turbo oil return line. Most of this info i gathered from this site, so i must say, thank you all. I should mention that the motor is fully built, exsept for the head. (OEM head with new valve seals) The problem that i'm having is the f**cking lifters man. Even at low boost 11 psi at 7500 RPM's I'm having lifter problems. Now i know that most have converted to a solid lifter system, with supertech being the suppler of most of those parts needed. But i live in a country were if i want to do any machine work to the head i would have to ship the head to the states. I wouldn't mind shipping it to australia, but it cost abot 800 dollars just to ship it there and back, so guy's like Dan at Elite racing is out of the question. about the only thing i got from Australia is a 6Boost manifold and Haltech ECU. Well last night i was driving the car hard, at about 15psi the highest i ever go with pump gas. At about 7000 RPM's the engine started to miss. At first i thought that it was just spark plugs, but after pulling up in the drive way i heard the lifters (maybe one) were making noise. I then cut the car off and checked everything. The oil was good, nothing in the catch tank, and all seemed good. Keeping in mind that a new born baby can be born dead, i changed all the plugs, oil's, filters etc. I didn't even start the car. i just went to sleep. The next morning i started the car, and it idled a little ruff, but then cleared up, I drove it to work, and all was fine. No noise from the lifters. The lifter had about 45000 km on them. After work i noised a little lifter noise, but after reaching home the noise was done. i then took it for a hard ride, and the thing is more quite that ever. All being said and done, i now hate hydraulic lifters, because its in the back of my mind, and now i'm scared to run the car with race fuel at the 25psi. What i'm after is the solid lifter system, and i have just some simple question about the cylinder head. Now i met a guy in Miami who said that he can do the head, but needs to now the gap space between the cam and the lifter cup.(buckets) for the intake and exhaust side.??? Next insted of buying the supertech kit, is there anything else i can do?? i've heard of people using GTR buckets??? Can this work.?? I want the most for my money, so if i can reuse the OEM valve, and just add spring the buckets, and then pay for the machining, that would be grate. Well i hoped that i've explain myself well enough for you guy's to help with this problem. Thanks in advance.

yep, i just used windows movie maker. lol Thats all i know of.

Sorry mate, but it loads for me right away. Maybe just slow conection that you have.

Hi Mate I would like to share my findings, after i pulled my motor apart last month. First off i should tell you the specs of the motor. 1. it has a built the block, has arp main studs, N1 oil and water pump, Eagle rods with wisco pistons, Bore 1mm over (87mm bore) ,6boost top mount manifold (t3) ,44 tial waste gate, AMS GT950R turbo, power fc, Custom intake with top mount fuel rail, 100mm tb, FMIC, external fuel pump, External fuel regulator, 800cc Sard injectors, Stock rebuilt head, MLS head gasket, ARP head studs. After opening up the motor the first thing i noticed was damaged pistons, it looks to be like detanation, But this could be because i used a 86mm MLS head gasket on a bored block. Stock bore size is 86mm and i bored it to 87mm,but used a 86mm bore gasket ,opp's second misstake. Next was the crank collar was the short one, but it was still in good shape, next i had no oil restrictors in the block. Next i never installed a head oil return, and other that running 25psi on pump gas. Thats all i found that was wrong with the car. Well for most part the pistons were really bad and it caused the head to get damaged, cause peace piston ring broke off and hit the head.Plus the head looked like it had small hole in the parts that were in the combustion chamber. so again i think that was detanation. The biggest thing i feel that cause or even aided the damage was the gasket. A 1mm peace of gasket like a round ring (looks like a piston ring 1mm round) fell in the combustion chamber. I feel this would have aided the detanation process. These small amounts of gasket can cause hot spots causeing preignition or detination. ??????? Well on my new motor (build 2 of them) Has all these things rectified. If you would like to see the new setup check the link out mate. its not much, but i do my own work. This is one of the 2 motors that i'm building. cheers

ok the only question that is stupid is the one thats not asked, and no i built it myself. I really dont thing i know everything and keep an open mind. I an waithing on some cams for the car, but i'm mocking it up right now. It's a 200sx s13 wide body.

ok mate sorry. its just that i'm working right now, and i thought that it was a good question. What else do you need to know to help me answer the question mate? I thought that it was a good question. I searched first, but i just cant seem to find the right answer. everyone is more like "whats the best sounding bov, bov for what boost", and so on. But no one can tell me why it opens, i'm thinking that dirt can get in the engine. It wouldn't work good for MAF set up's And will it work good on and of gas. Like for the tracks?????? Well i hope that these points start something and not just a simple answer link try harder lol. thanks cheers