MJTru

thinking back on the rebuild. I had mixed up the lifters, would this cause them to make this kind of noise. Does anyone know where i can get new lifters from, and if any of you can get me the OEM part number, i would be very thankfull.

I decked the head, but the car came stock from japan, it was even an auto, But no, i didn't take anything close to 10thou off, and i really dont think thats it. The machinist just made shore that the head was flat. And even if it was hitting the head, i would guess that it would beat itself to death, and loose power? Just the other day at work i had the same problem on a mercedes engine on a Terburg truck, and from what i heard, my engine sounds nothing like it. I don't know if slaping is the right word to use, but I dont know if you ever heard and old honda engine that never had its rocker arms adjusteded, that's what it sound like. Where can i get some new hydraulic lifter from? anyone.

I have a funny sound from my rb25det head, the sound isn't a hard sound it's just not as quite as I think it should be, I'm comparing to my friends stock rb25det. Being a mechanic I feel deeply that's it's the hydraulic lifters, When I build the block with forge pistons 9.5 to 1 compression rods, main studs N1 oil pump ACL race bearings, but the only thing I did to the head was grind the valves and replace the valve seals, I used head studs, and a multi layer head gasket. Now the head is completely stock. I reused the hydraulic lifters. I was told that on these heads you can't grind the vales to seat them, I was told that you must slap seat them not grind then, if you are going to reuse the lifters. I have no idea what slap seating a valve is all about. Has anyone heard of this? I started thinking maybe because when you grind the valve you move it further up in the head, and the old lifters were set to the height of the last stock height. Well this is one reason why I think my lifters may be making this noise. It sounds like its slapping just a small amount. The car doesn't miss idles great, and makes a lot of power and torque, just to give an idea, the shit rips the tires loose in 4th gear, I would like to replace the lifters with new ones and see what happens, I just don't know where to buy some from. I ran this motor hard, I did some 9000 rpm pulls a couple of times, and after reading some forms on SAU, I realized that that's not safe so I dropped it back to 7500 rpm's. To tell you the truth I'm surprised that it runs so great for so long. The motor had 50,000 km when I rebuilt it. I run 25 psi most of the time. Does anyone knows or heard of anything like this before? What do you all think I should do?

Ok guys I did it, I placed a 3way splitter where the original sending unit was on one end, I added -4 an adapter on the other end, I changed the oil and filter Mobil one 15w-50, I then started it up and, it went to 85 psi right away, after letting it idle for a while it sat at 65psi for a long time. At this point it wasn't too warm, so I took it for a ride at 26psi of boost, beat it a little, and then return home. The factory gauge was sitting just slightly under the quarter mark, and the analog gauge that I add was reading 40 psi. From what I read this should be fine. It wasn't easy getting these fittings to fit. There is no room, and I found it easier to do it with the filter off, so that's why I just changed the oil. the gauge i added does have a faster response than the factory one. After i drive the car for a little while more, and the oil wears a little, and the factory gauage goes to half of the quarter mark, thats when i will let you know my findings. thats the test piont. nismo N1 oil pump is what i have. thanks everyone for all your help.

has any thing changed are you running, a n1 oil pump? like i am. I like you wheels mate, if you don't mind can you let me know the specs on them size name and type offset front and rear tyre size. thanks looks like 10 j in the rear. I'm guessing that there s1's.

I've red this thred, and i own a r33 gtst with a n1 oil pump and i have the same problem, i use mobil one 15w-50 full synthetic oil. Is this model of the skyline prone to a bad gauge as well? after a good beating the car oil pressure is midddle of 0-quarter mark. I'm thinking of dropping the crank changing out my acl bearings for new ones, change the oil pump to a greddy unit that i have. and while i'm at it, place a crank collar on the crankshaft for the new pump. What is the recomembed oil pressure in psi at idle for a gtst, as i will check it with a manual gauge first?

This is the fuel map It looks bad in my opinion But these value are what i had to place in order to have my AFR's around 12 to 12.5 AFR's As you can see at idle the values are in the lean area in the 17's but on the wide band o2, it is saying 14.5-14.9 witch is what i'm looking for. In high load 5600 rpms and 11571 load point i have 14.31 this is what i had to put in order to get the wide band to log a value of 12-12.5 AFR's. This is a difference of about almost 02.0 First i thought that the wide band sensor was clogged but after recallebrating the sensor, it was the same. I even got a new sensor. thanks again for all your help.

Ok mate, I think things are coming around in my head, and I think the whole mix up is in the way the wording is. I try to explain. When you say give it more timing, I'm thinking "give it more timing and starting at the BTDC mark, I'm thinking moving it closer to TDC mark. So in essence I'm thinking of it all wrong moving it closer to TDC would cause pinging like crazy right? So give it more timing means retard it more and give it more time to burn the whole fuel and air mixture. Now from what JonnoHR31 said "Google ignition timing" I've been reading, and my eyes looks like I smoke drugs or something, after getting some sleep and gathering my thoughts, here is what I've found, maybe you guys can clarify some of the matters I've learnt or think I did for that matter. On turbo applications we have to give more timing when coming on boost? So it would be wise to log a boost curve with your ignition curve as well as AFR's right? These 3 seems to be the essentials oh yah and knock, this bring me to the realization that if this is true I've not been logging boost against my ignition map. Seeing how my ignition settings are not set to when my boost comes in, (AMSGT950R turbo) would this cause it to be lazy? I will attach my ignition map Please take a look at it, and let me know what you think. Looking at it I'm thinking that it's a good starting point, but can be so much better, and the only reason I say it's a good starting point is because I would max the AFM out and the engine is still living after a year. The only real tuning I've done is on the Injection (fuel) map. What I've found using a innovate motorsport LM2 wide band is, the valves that are in the power FC base map (fuel). Let's say that in the base map (FC) there is an AFR reading of 12.5 AF ratios in any of the rpm cells at any load point, what's coming out of the tail pipe is not matching up to what's in the map of the power FC. I find myself taking the values in the power FC map in the reds or Lean areas in order to get the right AFR's out the tail pipe (wide band reading) What I'm saying is that the values from the wide band log isn't the same as what is in the power FC is saying. There should have had a constant valve that can bring these values closer together. Is there something like that?

Thanks mate, insightful That makes sense, looking at the standard map on the power FC if I can remember right the full load is about 49, witch is close to what you’re saying. Ok, when adding more boost and fuel the timing should be going up or down (advance or retard)? What is confusing to me is using the words advance and retard, When you say advance that means moving the timing forward. I’m always thinking ATDC, but in saying that, if I add more fuel and air the ignition should be earlier In the BTDC sector of the combustion process. Now the more fuel and air the long it takes to burn and reach maximum cylinder pressure, so in essence I should retard the timing to optimize the process with more fuel and air. Remembering that more fuel and air will take longer to burn. What happens if maximum cylinder pressure occurs in the ATDC sector of the combustion process? Do I get power loss? Or more detonation? I’m thinking that you don’t want it at the exact TDC mark because it will put added stress on the main bearing caps. If anyone can bring some light to this topic I would be most grateful. Why hold back? Tuning is much more than timing so please consider helping for a moment and if not, please say why.? Thanks again to those that choose to help.

Yah, I can’t believe I spent that much on an ECU. I tuned the power FC that I have myself, and it wasn’t that bad. I just have a little bit of a problem when it comes to tuning the ignition maps. I don’t feel as if I have fully understood the ignition theory. I have been reading up on this subject, by what I have found is that almost everyone has there own method of tuning this curve (ignition), but in saying this and engine combustion process only works one way. So in our own way we find different ways in feeling it out, Hence everyone’s individuality. What I have found is that I’m looking for maximum cylinder pressure after ignition; I found that there is a lag period that the fuel takes to burn so the whole process should start BTDC. The more fuel and boost I add the longer it will take to burn, so even earlier (BTDC) the ignition process should start. Is the RIGHT? Now the hard part for me is finding a good starting point. (Ignition) What I have used as a base at full load is 33 deg above 3500 rpm’s, and around 22 deg below 3500 rpm’s, low to medium load. This is just a ruff starting point. My rule of thumb, please feel free to add your own rule of thumb. After this I look at knock levels and AFR’s, but looking, and logging knock at the same time you are tuning the ignition curve is key to finding maximum cylinder pressure, as knock levels should be low not high(reasonable). Please remember that the octane of the fuel is also key, as you should know what power you are looking for (realistically) and have that fuel in the tank. The power is in the fuel (octane is how much you can squeeze the fuel before it ignites itself.)(Detonation) I’m I on the right track Mate? I still learning more and more any help would be thankful Sorry that the topic has strayed a little. But those who can grasp the theory should be helped in fully understanding the theory’s of TUNING.

Hi mate i own a r33 Nissan skyline Rb25det, i was wondering how i can calibrate my new injector (sard 850cc 1.60ms lag time) I presently have a power fc installed in the car and i calibrated that fine so i know everything works fine. At 25 psi i'm maxing out my Z32 AFM, so i got a plug and play PS2000, and wounding how i can calibrate these injectors. As a start, under what heading can i find these setting, as i'm new to the haltech world of ecu's, I havent even looked at the software yet, but plan on installing the unit and before i take it to get tuned, I would like too calibrate the injectors so that i can move the car. I found it simple on the power fc, I hope that it is the same for the haltech ecu's

Yah mate I will look into it it's a good thing I haven't spent the money yet lol I was planing on get the haltech, but about 2 years ago I red some things about the v88 sounds like this ecu is what I'm looking for. I'll do my research. I would really like for more people to give me there inputs on this topic. I'm shore there are guy's that have reached these power levels and not just us. The power fc is out dated and that's a fact. It's time for a change. V88 from what I've red is the best for a all round use. Can you recommend a dealer that sells these units.? What about the cost any idea? Well thanks alot mate. I'll let you know what I find. Ca

I agree with this, as I only make sense. If that was the case, then no one would need to upgrade there ecu’s. There would be no need for larger mass air flow sensors. Most could have just tuned the ecu’s for the same size maf. Also I like that you can get rid of all the pipes that are integrated in the maf system. IE map set up. I’m surprised, that I can find anyone that used the ps2000 on this site. As it stands I’m getting one next week with the 5 bar map sensor, and a boost controller kit. More help on this matter please Thanks mate

Paulr33, I know that you’re an evangelist of the pfc, but I’m shore that there are other benefits to running a newer ecu. Flat linning the pfc makes it difficult for me to tune. When I reach the close to the flat lining mark, the check engine light flashes, and I can feel the power drop off. I know there isn’t much I can tell you to make you move change your mind about the pfc. The newer stuff has to have some more benefits that the older pfc. One that I herd about is. The self tuning of air fuel ratio’s with the haltech. I have a had time tuning the pfc for constant af’s at different load points. The easiest to tune is the Max load points. Also looking at the software for the haltech seems more practical and user friendly. I do appreciate all your inputs, as I’ve learnt the most from this site, so please expand my vision in this endeavor.

I was woundering if the Haltech Ps2000 is werth the price as an ecu upgrade,? Has anyone used it? I'm using the power fc at 25psi with a z32 mass air flow, AMS (GT950R). I'm thinking of getting the ps2000 and getting rid of the restictive mass air flow. I want to try running 30psi, and i'm flat lining the power fc at 25psi. Plus is there anyother features that can put the pfc in the dust. Well what i'm trying to say is will it be worth the upgrade. I've heard that the fc is real an old item. Thanks mates.

yes i would like to know a price range as well. Any pics mate?

i'm looking to buy this set up http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Rb...ts-t252332.html I tried to pm swiper the fox with no luck, i'm planning on using a set up like this, but i'm looking for the complete kit with everything. If anyone knows of somthing better than this or close please let me know. I just bought a greedy hi flow pump, but i think the best thing is external. a little to late . (800hp goal) Hi Mate. I was looking at you topic about the external oil pump kit that you got. can you send me some more pics and a price for everything to install this on a rb25det. I building my motor right now and i'm thinking on going this route. I'm new at this external pump set up, can you also tell me or walk me through this process from pump to oil cooler and oil return. have a good idea, but 2 ideas are better than one. thanks again mate. Mark. Full Edit Quick Edit i'm looking to buy this set up http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Rb...ts-t252332.html I tried to pm swiper the fox with no luck, i'm planning on using a set up like this, but i'm looking for the complete kit with everything. If anyone knows of somthing better than this or close please let me know. I just bought a greedy hi flow pump, but i think the best thing is external. a little to late . (800hp goal) Hi Mate. I was looking at you topic about the external oil pump kit that you got. can you send me some more pics and a price for everything to install this on a rb25det. I building my motor right now and i'm thinking on going this route. I'm new at this external pump set up, can you also tell me or walk me through this process from pump to oil cooler and oil return. have a good idea, but 2 ideas are better than one. thanks again mate. Mark. Full Edit Quick Edit i'm looking to buy this set up http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Rb...ts-t252332.html I tried to pm swiper the fox with no luck, i'm planning on using a set up like this, but i'm looking for the complete kit with everything. If anyone knows of somthing better than this or close please let me know. I just bought a greedy hi flow pump, but i think the best thing is external. a little to late . (800hp goal) Hi Mate. I was looking at you topic about the external oil pump kit that you got. can you send me some more pics and a price for everything to install this on a rb25det. I building my motor right now and i'm thinking on going this route. I'm new at this external pump set up, can you also tell me or walk me through this process from pump to oil cooler and oil return. have a good idea, but 2 ideas are better than one. thanks again mate. Mark.

The best place i found so far is http://www.theoldone.com/components/cylinderheads/skyline/ I think these guy's are the best. check it out and let me know. the work is clean as it can ever be. A mirror shine mate.

thanks everyone, i contacted paul I'm giving hin all my specs now, for a price quote. Anyone have an idea on the price for machining and parts. Thanks again mate

This email doesn't work anymore mate.

To keep it simple, i think it would be best for the machinist to pick the parts and do the work. I just pay. Port and polish valves, guides, springs, retainers combustion chamber reshape, valave angle job, solid lifters, cams, etc.

thanks mate I'll check it out. any idea on cost.?

Hi mates I'm looking for some one that can build a skyline head for about 800hp @ 10000 rpm's. please provide contact Can you list items that i would need before i spend the big bucks.

i damaged my power fc hand controller. well just the screen is what i need were can i get just the screen from. thanks cheers.