MJTru

My navigation through the menu is different from yours. For bluetooth I have to enter the phone settings first. I'm wondering if because it's paired in the phone settings would be why I can't see a bluetooth option under audio. Hmm.

Thanks mate. Do you remember what's for music as I just repaired using all and all saying call audio.

Hello guys. I got my phone to pair up, but it saying it only for call adiuo only and I'm interested in stream my music. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks in advance

I'll take one. better yet answer me and I want the whole English conversation

I'm interested in this. Do they care to much for the navigation. Just want everything else.

How is it done. I mean not the process. Do you need the whole vehicle or can these units be removed and sent to be converted. Can the cluster be done as well??

Thats in the books. As im taking a trip next month. Im also looking to visit some trade shows regarding the subject. But its all new so im searching where ever i can. I was hoping for a good machining form.

Hello everyone. Its been awhile since i was here. Last time was when i was changing out rb26 guides to a bc units that needed to be cut to the right length. Simple truth the supertech stuff are the exact same as oem nissan rb26 guides no cutting just install. After i bought a tool that pulls the guid in the head. KEEPING in mind the head was very hot and guides frozen in nitrogen. I got the in with no problems, no galling nothing. It was all an experiment really. So i started to lap the valves, and yes now i have to have the seats cut to the new center line of the new brass guides. Wow. What a damn workout after all those tools i bought. So i spent the last month and a half refecting on what i want to do. I could send the heads out, as i have 2 heads that are new and will need the works basically done to them. From guids to seats valves, relief cut for cams. Small bit of porting and so on. This got me thinking. So i started looking into way i can cut the seats myself. And correct me is im wrong here but at minimum ill need a accuracy of 001 of an inch for racing, and the old school guys that used stones and blades to cut the seats were around 003 of an inch, as well as takes lots of skill at minimum a machine that can be bought today for about 15k usd. I started to look at methods used to cut seats. I came across lots, one machine floats heads and machining bit on a cushion to find true center line. Next was one of my favorites Newen fixed tuning contour BB. In short guys im looking to have my shop move into this field of machining, i enjoy the stuff. I want to redirect my funds to provide a service rather than waste it racing. I know this topic might me in the wrong section, but there is reliance to it. First we know you need to cut seats when we change guides, next the method to changing rb26 guides i can show anyone if there willi g to pm me. Next we know the heads needs to be heated and guides frozen, so its not all a waste, last bc guides needs to be cut to size. I dont like that so go with supertech one i would say. If anyone here can help point me into the right direction, like a head machining forum, or a place i can gather lots of info on methods to service heads cutting tools anything. I can see an initial investment of over 500k. A contour bb is about 80k new. But this is the path to my future. This is what i want. Ill be the first in my region if i can accomplish this goal. Thanks for taking the time to read over my thread, and i thank you in advance. Marcus.

http://portflow.com/product.htm This would be my choice. There charging 1750 USD. thats all machine work with me providing the parts. They have some good machines like a Newen BB 5 axis. Thanks like always GTSBoy i have heard of them but as for now im not racing that serious to pay that kind of price just to be weeded out as not serious. That shop is great just to rich for my blood. Maybe one day. I can already see myself buy some of these machines to deal with my own stuff and more so provide good service to the Caribbean market. I have spent a small fortune on these parts that i cant even fit in one shot. To me a long time to find new heads after my guides smashed my motor. Im doing it one last time. For my r33 and a drag gts4 that your aware of. Please dont count ourself out here guys. Port flow designs is just a choice im still willing to ship to Australia if its economically sound for me as my hp goals are about 800hp at the very best. Thanks in advance for all your suggestions.

Hello guys. I just got off the phone with ricky at raw brokerage here in the states. He is saying to build a head will cost me 3200 plus usd dollars. Shit this was a shock for me, as im providing all the parts. I have bc guides, std supertech valves and dual valve springs. Buckets and cams. This price is for a port job inspection, mod for bigger cams, valve job, port and polish valve lash adjustment. I want to know if this is a reasonable price seeing that im providing all the race parts and just looking to have some machining work done. To me at this price, i can ship my parts and new nissan heads that needs no cleaning to Australia where the tech in my opinion is way better, as theres way more shops specializing in rb26 than in the states. To me this price is ridiculous. He might as well told me to f--k off. Am i wrong here. Can you guys provide some shops that would happy do a similar job and list a price that they may charge. Must be will to ship them back. 3 heads in total. One head is fully stock just bc giudes. The next 2 is for full street/drag application. Oh and the 3200 each is for the 2 race heads. The stock one with bc guides installed is 2000. Wow

I agree that the seats have to show good signs of a proper seating pattern. I have had mixed feels about if it will be out that bad, and would need recutting. If thats the case im screwed. I can do a bit of slap seating old school style, but im interested to see how far out it will be. Lots of guys say it will be off and its best to cut the seat using the guide to center it up. But some guys say they never had to cut the seat. A good slap seating worked just fine. Ill find out sooner than later. Not to long ago i found out the reamer size i needed. About 6mm intake and 7mm exhaust. I plan on measuring the valves up tomorrow then buying the reamers

I was thinking of using them. My next choice was port flow design in CA. RAW Brokerage i like because i can travel there personally. This is my, i guess you can say experimental head. My try. For notes the valve to guide clearance is 0.1m (0.004) Tomorrow ill try to trim the guides to the right length heat the head up again, and using some nitrogen dip the guides and quickly install them. I spent 2 days making a guide jig so that i cant over press it to deep. Once there cut to the right length i.e stock length i hope it goes well. Ill have to wait for my ball gauge to arrive along with my flex hone. As for now im looking for a reamer tool, and if i get this right the honing comes after i ream it. Choosing the right size reamer is the next hard part. I think they have reamer that can expand. Not to sure. The search is on. Thanks for all your comments and suggestions very insightful

Thanks sir. Intrested in what shop you used. Seeing that we are both from state side.

Opps didnt see this. How have you been mate nice to hear from you. Thanks as usual

Thanks mate. Seems like im down the path of stacking up on some good tools. Well as for the valve not fitting. I just figured out ill need to hone them. My choice is a flex hone. Also will need a ball gauge to find the inner diameter of the end hone. Question. Does anyone know of the clearance im looking for when i hone it. For both intake and exhaust? I really want to try this myself. I have removed all the guides perfectly, i gut the head up to temperature and pressed them out wit no scaring of the aluminum i couldn't be happer. One thing im confused about though is the length of the guides. Is this normal and where do i put the long side. Or space it out equally.

Im wondering if any of you guys using standard nissan valves on a rb26 with BC valve guides. I notice that the exhaust valves fit the exhaust guides but the intake valves are tight on the intake guides and wont fit. Also both intake and exhaust guides are different lengths. The BC guides are way longer than the factory guides. Im wondering if any of you guys have this problem. I can only imagine once the guides are fitted into the head that it will get even tighter. I have post a photo to give a better idea. I cant get around the thought of the intake valves not fitting the intake guides. Like in the photo. Like the exhaust valves. In the photo its std size but supertech valves, but i have tried the factory vavles as well, and the same intake valves dont fit the bc guides.

Ok lets relook at this abit. I dont mind change to another ecu, or even changing to a better intake. What power level would be very reliable for a rb26. Keeping in mind i want to retain a wet sump. Maybe later a dry sump setup in another car. This car is ment for street and occasional drag passes. What you you guys think about supertech dual valve springs. and TI retainers. 92lb seat pressure??

Well reliably. Speaking

Damn im suprised that you cant get 750 from a RB26. looks like ill be saying good bye RB's Always had it in the back of my head. Time for some good old v8's thanks mate. RB's = waste of money. Ill waste it one more time.

Hi. Guys not only from reading over the past years have i came up with learning some things you have to change when it comes to making some good power from rb26 motors or the whole line up of rb series motors. But i would like to see if im on the right track or even missed a few things. Please bare with me as i might have these in the wrong order. Im doing 2 build at the moment and also would really appreciate good advice. I would like to say thanks from now. First of long time ago i came across the oil problems from crank collar to block oil restriction and larger sump to head drain, even driling the return holes larger. Also from a stock stand point weak ring landings, stock turbo limitations, Even after endless amounts of money and time im now learning that these motors also can brake valve guides at high rmps. Im hoping we can go over some few points im taking to do my new builds. Im going to change every damn thing in the motor that changeable. Lol. What i would like to know and some would say just do it is. The buckets in the heads i see that there available from Tomei but are they necessary, what are some benefits of doing it, if any. Here is what i plan on doing. I want a good steer/drag build of about 750whp. The motor. New head sent to port flow and design in CA to have all the work done to the head. As of now i have BC giudes, supertech STD valve, supertech dual valve spring 92 seat pressure, have no idea on what cam specs to go with, or to change buckets. New timing belt, N1 Water pump, greddy oil pump, custom head drain, Racefab sump, CP pistons upgraded pins. 20 over pistions running 8tho ring gap, piston to wall clearance will be 3 to 4 tho. All ARP head and main studs, ACL race bearings, new oem nissan crank shafts. Manley rods with + 625 bolts. im also planning on having port flow and design just polish up the head and make bowls clean. Turbo is a gtx3582r t4 twin scroll using dual 38mm tial gates with 6 boost manifold. Running power fc with 800 cc injectors but will uograde later. Duel intank e85 450 walbro pumps. (F90000267) along with a apexi head gasket 1.5mm at 87mm bore size. Thats about l all i can think of i hope i didn't miss anything. Im also doing another build right after this one but 1mm over valves by suptech all the same, just a Tomei oil pump. I would really appreciate any advice you guys may have. I hope to get a reliable rb motor this time. Damn talk about being loyal to skylines and rb's.

When you say reaming the valve you mean kind of like drilling them out cutting the side wall area down so that they come out easier. Rather than pressing them out and scolding up the aluminum.???

Sorry for all late reply. I was planning on doing the guides myself on a junker before i do it on my new heads. I just got 5 sets of bc guides. I also located a very good tool that removes and installs the guides. One question. Do anyone know or heard of using seal lock/fluid weld on the guides like a locktite to keep them in. I know its a tolerance fit thing and freezing them before installing them is a good idea as well. Just was reading up on some old article, and came across the fluid weld stuff. Oh and i am planning on doing all my valve work myself its always worked out for me, just my first time having a failed guide. Hate this. I hope this is the last hump in the rb line up. I tight for years to master the oil issues, did it and over looked the guides. Damn me. With fully built motor is there any other weak point i may have mist. Thanks in advance.

Hmmm. I would agree but the return from the fuel rail returns to the surge tank and the surge tank over flows back to the cell. In that setup do you think it will still empty the surge tank.

Sorry for the late reply. The hose with no grommet is a drain hose. And that was an old photo. Before the car hit the road it was replaced with a buld head 90 fitting. The surge tank is a 2 liter tank. Regularing tank baffling i notice the tank came with a foam inside. I could be wrong but i cant see grading air. As for staging the pump i might just do that to keep heat down. I had a feeling that the fuel system is over kill when i was doing it. But it done and i have to learn and move on. Taking it out isnt an option, but learning and moving on as well as not making the same mistakes is key. Can you go into some deatails of your so simple fuel system that your running as im after 900hp in my new build on my r33 gtr. Its being ripped apart as we speak, i figure before im done this one the r32 will reach the 25 year band period that will alway it to be shipped to the states. Where i wont have to go through all these red tapes if i was to have it shipped there now. Its very close by and its no big deal either way just less paper work. If i can ask? As i take nothing to heart and dont expect to be babied. Im a big boy. Lol. So bad or good i dont care. What would be one of the simplest and effective way of attaining a 900hp goal retaining the stock tank. Ive seen some pump options out there but to be fare if your saying its over kill then by all means please explain your entire fuel set up for me please. Im all ears. Seems every car i build i make mistakes which is understandable. I hope my r33 wont be that much of a mistake as its my favorite one. I will take my time on this one. As for the r 32 im planning on moving the accusump line away from the fuel lines. Next. Ill stage the pumps as menstioned. Ill also add a shield for the exhaust and the fuel cooler. I have a new pump and will replace the lift pump (aeromotive one) Thanks for your comments.

The olny line that throught the spare wheel is the breather hose. Thats the only one without a bulk head fitting. Thats was an old photo but there is a grommet there now.