MJTru

I had a pt turbo. From ams In my old rb25. Worked good. The gt35r is mine the hks is a friend for a 2jz. I was comparing power levels and turbos. I picked this gtx35r rear housing and all for 1600 usd and couldn't let it pass. So i wouldnt really want to fork out some more cash for a PT turbo. They are hybrids of Garrett turbos. Like hks. And so on. What are you getting at tho mate. Whats your thoughts.

Damn. So i should drop my goals to 600hp 450kw. And i would say from your response that anything more would be leaning on the preference of drag racing only. I want a fun car and a good car that would go down the drag stip. Not by no means a drag only car. You guys have me thinking. I would need a twin scroll dual 38mm gate manifold from kyle. One last qiestion is the 1.06 ar housing a good choice and how would it compare to a smaller one for power. I guessing the biggger rear housing will have a better top end but less responsive.

Ok thats a good comparison. Power wise. So the gtx wouldn't work for 800hp. I was guessing that much. Damn. Thats a 100kw difference. I was looking also at the gtw series turbos from Garrett. 3882r is good for about 950 hp What you guys think about that. In short whats one of.the best responsive turbo for that power level or is my goals to high. ? I feel a gt42r is way to big for a 2.6 displacement.

Hi guys i have two turbos and without getting in to much detail here i would like to know which turbo you guys think would be a better choice for drag, but as well as driving on the streets. As you all may know i drag race but love to drive on the streets as well. I really looking for 800hp to the wheels as well as being a good street car. My past projects were as big a turbo on a rb25 build wit small head work, using a gt42r. Now im running a rb26 in all skyline 4wd chassis. But im lost to what turbo to use. So i have opped to place the two turbos up agaist eachother to see what you guys would recommend. Hense using practical recommendations based on actual results. I have looked on line and seems like post that im finding is post that are old and favor the hks turbo just based on the time vs. What was avalible. As we all know the hks t51r spl or kai version never had a gtx as a competition. So in saying that here is the underdog. A gtx35r BB with A twin scroll 1.06 ar rear housing vs a HKS t51t KIA journal bearing. I personally love the look and size of the hks unit. But i also realize after alot.of reading its old. Please look at the attcahed photo and tell me what you guys would recommend me going with. Thanks a million. Planning on ordering a 6 boost manifold soon. Im confused. ???? Hks is a v band hot side in and outlets

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Yes i seen this post before. Thanks for that guys. I thinking of changing the arrangements as well as i should have done so when i rebuild the transfer case. But i dont mind doing it again. As i have 7 good disk that came out. Has anyone tried a full lock setup. To see how it works. I have my switch set right as i go into 3rd so that my fingers can hit the switch to rwd mode. See the attached photo. Im just wondering how it would work on a full lock arrangements for street driving. ????? As of now i notice that the ets pro applies more transfercase pressure as im driving normal so i opp to leave it in rwd mode and inly use it for drag days.

Ok so we figured out today that the ets pro is working and well at that. We are now leaving the line with full 4wd lock and can feel it. This is in manual mode and hitting the 2wd switch in 3rd. We really dont need to time anything as we can simply feel the difference with these new friction disks. We would like to add the following. 1. We would have loved to see the actual torque split gauge still work for the 660 dollar we paid for the system. 2. We would have loved the company to offer stickers for the modes and percentage for the manual mode nob. Next even a 2wd drive and 4wd sticker.. simple no big deal. 3. If there is a mismatch in tire size the system has no way of knowing this and will damage the transfercase. Thats bad. But we figure the reasoning would be just for racing. ? But the product didn't even come with instructions in the package. Thank god for this site. 4. In our opinion for its to be called a full stand alone system it should first be better at self diagnosis than the oem system. Opinion here. By tracing all wheels sensors. We understand the way it works has nothing do do with wheel sensors. But find it fare as a statement. but wait who cares its simple. 5. The company should mension if its better to use the product in 2wd mode or 4wd mode for simple street driving. As we cant monitor the % of the way it engages the front wheel keeping in mind that there is a nob. It would be nice if there was a way to utilize the factory torque spirit gauge via some sort of output. Finally we would recommend this unit to anyone. We simply wish the price was way cheaper. So we offered just some ideas to justify the price. We end by saying this is by far the best attessa controller we and i have ever used. Simple. Thanks full race.

It makes no sense to me to just buy pistons. As i rather save som cash and stock up on pistons by buying the rods and pistion combination. Thats all. I know that pistons are cheaper.

I have finished my installation of this ets pro. What i would like to know is. ?? My 4wd light is on. I installed it just as one mate on this did. I would figure the light would come on because the attessa computer picks up an ooen circuit see how the pump wires need to be cut and hook up directly to the ets pro. ??? Can anyone shine some light on this situation

Aftet i removed one piston took the rings off and insert it upside down to measure the difference from piston to cylinder wall clearance it seems to be close to 20 thou smaller. That would put me right about right if i use a 87mm bore piston but will never know. If the clearance is .004 and my caliper isnt to accurate when i wonder the caliper around in the bore i get like 86.9 thats very close to 87mm i feel the accuracy of the caliper is the problem maybe its a 87mm bore piston i need. Damn if thats the case thats a big mistake. Like a 1300 dollar mistake. Guess its better than assembling the motor to have it fail. Im glad i spot this. Im going to order a set of new pistons and rods and go from there.

Thanks i have watched a couple of videos. Please look at the spec sheet that came with the piston is the piston to cylinder wall clearance what im pointing at. ??? If so thats small. I would opp to go with .004

Hmm. I thought it may have been bored wrong as well. I was just to busy today to do anything. Ok here is where i must admit im a bit weak. Most likely because im just being lazy. I at the time did to blocks in miami florida with guess who some Australian guys. They do work for the coast guards here in the states. Son does the heads and dad does the blocks. May be an honest mistake. Im going to buy a dial bore gauge tomorrow and check his work. Guess what cp pistons can out and cp pistons went back in. By no means i think its there fault i actually think its just a different batch of pistons by cp and im just doing a rebuild now. Noticing the difference. Damn why do i feel its a money thing now. Well. Best solution if i was.to guess woyld be to buy 1mm or 40thow over pistons and rebore it as 1mm is my personal max i would go. Damn. But before jumping the gun ill contact cp and measures the bore and see what they have to say. From my personal experience i think a new set of pistons is in order. 1mm or 40thow.over. damn i cant believe all this bs. Ill take my caliper to work tomorrow and measure the block. They may have mest up. Anyone can teach me how to check bore to piston clearance. Using a v caliper. Damn and its for a friend not even mine. :(

Ok guys ets pro just arrived. Will install it this weekend. Here some phots. I will update the results i find.

Yes. Right now i cant remember the actual size i got. I will update tomorrow. Work was super busy and will contact cp piaton tomorrow. Will they be able to supply the rings. Custom size i guess.??

I will try to contact them directly in the morning. Thanks for the chart. (Document) mate

It makes lots of sense. It would lock the 4wd up like a evo is or any all time 4wd car. Thats what i reall want. But only in a straight line. After that its a nightmare on the way home. So i would rather manipulate the attessa pump for full lock going with the ETS PRO from full race. Or better yet do the mechanical method with the pump. But i wanted to make sure the disks were all good. Then focus on everything else. Good ideas guys. Even when i try this ets pro next week ill do the mechanical pump and try to make a system that has both streetability and drag racing (full lock in mind). By turning a bottle valve and separating the two systems. We couldn't believe how easy the transfercase was to do. I would recommend it to anyone thats a mechanic.

In retrospect i have set my rb26 way smaller than the my rb25 build right now. See attached of rb26 ring gap.

I have done the math and figure ill need 1.75 mm bigger ring with a 86.5mm bore. Wow wonder if thats avalible. I notice that the part nber from cp is cnp 3.406 thats the actual sizing of the rings. So if i was to add 1.75mm which is .060 inch the size i would get would be 3.466 Wonder how that will work. At that size ill need to gap them myself. Im planing on going with an end gap of .010 or so for occasionally hitting some NOS. max boost of 25psi. My big problem is i cant find a chart for cp pistons and the ring gapping or size option. I feel stuck. Does anyone one of a way to address this??

Ok so i have figured out its to big of a gap. How do i find from cp pistons a set of rings for my 86.5 over size pistons that have a smaller gap.

Hi guys i came across something wierd today building a rb25. I might be wrong here and wondering what you guys think. I have a block that was bored to 86.5 and i just bought a set of new cp pistons over sized for the bore. The machine shop had a piston so he could get the right clearance. The problem is the ring gaps look big like really big in the bore. The photos will show you guys what i mean. The gaps are like .064 in inch. Sorry my gauge isnt in mm. Damn yanks products. Lol Im figuring that cp would have made it tight with room to adjust the gap.

I have no access to a dyno as most people here would know. I also have blown up motors due to knock and some serious detonation in the past. And from then i have been struggling to tune my power fc using the road, and what ever sensors i have. I can say that i appreciate any sensor rather than none. I haven't gotten bad results but i can truly understand when guys tell me i need a dyno and im working blind. That statement is very true as ill never know my max torque line. What i would recommend is have a good read over paulr33 FAQ. and understand what the man is saying under the self tuning section. That was the real foundation to my learning. But power fc knock for my is a clue. It cant be that bad. But if you have lots of loose parts slapping against your engine block that can be interpreted as knock as well. So that being said a clean and organized engine bay is very good. You are bless take your car and get it tuned mate. You should love it after that.

Hi guys i just want to make sure im hooking up my accusump oil line to the right place. Im guessing it the line that returns to the engine bearings. So in the photo it will be the silver line. /NOT gold one. Is this right, as its my first time using one of these accumulators. Tea off in the silver line. ? Thanks in advance

Hmm. Thanks again. Your suggestion seems to line up with things i found out in the past GTSBoy. The hard way that is. I will order the knock device. But im working very hard on buying a dyno for my shop. Knowing that it wont make me money really. Its all personal. And to add max knock before torque drop off is a big clue. On the haltech knock ears keeping in mind i haven't used it as yet. What is considered an the ceiling level for knock. Thats wouldnt have no affects on softer aluminum head. As all the engine i have so very well blow up i have learnt took its toll on the heads. Pitted and obvious signs of detonation. Damn life of owning a moded skyline is tuff for me.

Thanks to all. I will read. Lol GTSBoy it may have been you that post that knock ear up. I remember that. Looks the same. But hiw do i know my limits. If i add more fuel that will be base on my AF'S log looking for 12.0 and if i pull timing whats my limits wit what effects if i over do it. Or how do i know im over doing it. ?? Sorry for the confusion if any guy. Oh i found the haltech knock ears on ebay over here for 860 USD. NOT bad. Well what do i know. Status i will read thanks

Thanks. Guys. So what electronic device do i need to use that can detect knock. I have heard of a head phone or somthing of the sort. A very long time ago some linked me to a device that looked very good. I just for nothing cant find it. I cant even remember the name. By now it may be out dated or have a newer version. What do you guys use.