cabbie_bro

After about 10mins of driving it started happening again. Same fault code.

Received the spare this morning from Scotty. Swapped out the old one and performed a calibration as per PN-Mad's post - All seems to be well. I can rev it and no MIL light. Popping down to the shops to grab a couple of new hose clamps then going to take the stag for a drive see how it goes.

Did you have to replace yours as well??

Sent Scotty a PM I think if its not fckd its on its way out. Seems like a common problem.

Lol just as you posted I found the instructions. I think I am doing it right but no change. And yes I reset the ecu code to get 0000

Cleaned it out. Same fault. Cant find the instructions to reset throttle. But now it idles at 1000rpm and I can get it up to just under 2k rpm. Thats progress lol

Hey scotty can you pm me how much you want for the Throttle motor?

Do you know of a way to test so I can find out which it is? I would of thought if pedal sensor I wouldn't be able to get the ecu codes as it relies on pedal sensor.

Nah I haven't taken the throttle body off yet; will give that a go and make sure I don't touch the butterfly. I guess giving it a good ol' spray of carby cleaner wouldn't hurt? But yeah, once the engine check light comes on when you fully press the pedal the revs only go up by 1 line (prob about 100rpm). So it's not like it can even "limp home".

http://www.rhdjapan.com/works-bell-paddle-shifter-neo-nissan.html

Last Friday (after a shit ton of rain) I started up my Stagea only to find there is a engine check light just as I was about to take off. I believe the code before was 1122 (Throttle Position Motor - Range/Performance). I got some electrical contact cleaner from Jaycar and gave the connector a nice spray and plugged in and unplugged a couple of times to work it in there. That seemed to have fixed it as I took it for a nice blat around town and didn't have a drama. Today I went to take the car to an Auto Electrician because I just don't have the time at the moment to get the headlight's sorted for MVR (Currently low beam is HID), and the problem happened again. But no matter what I do I can't get it going again. I cleared the ECU fault code and started up the engine - idled as normal - once I put my foot on the accelerator pedal the engine check light came on. I have uploaded a video to youtube of the fault code incase I am not reading it right. I have also attached a pic of the pop up screen in jap. Any help would be greatly appreciated. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G50VcSbFnTI&feature=youtu.be

I will check but the in-car volt guage shows over 12v when not running and 14v when running. I didn't even think to test the any other circuits with the multimeter. Also I forgot to mention the high beams don't work at all. One a related note; does anyone know how to convert from HID to Halogen? such as where i can get the globe terminal from that will fit the Stagea. I am hoping not to hack anything up (except the wiring) so that i can switch between HID and halogen.

Well I do in fact have HIDs. I was looking at it tonight and going to cut the wires running to the ballast and put a connector on there so i can wire up halogen's when I need to get rego check and if the fuzz picks up on it; but apart from that I will swap out and plug in my HIDs. But now I have another question; Friday last week the car started playing up (diagnosed to be the Throttle Motor - fixed!) and since then the HIDs flicker one and off like a strobe light. also the parkers flickers (like too much current is being drawn - similar to when you see those ppl with big subs and not adequate power supply). I tested the connectors and they are fluctuating power; between 6 and 7 volts; and I am pretty sure that ain't normal. Just can't figure out why. Any ideas?

Is there an easy way to tell if they have been converted or not? From that it says they are converted yeah? I'm not crazy?

These are the labels on my headlights (both are the same except for the serial number)

So do I just have to remove the ballast and cable up to the halogens? Sorry did a search on SAU and Google and didn't come up with anything useful.

How are there soo many Stagea's and other imports rego'd and passing compliance if they don't have "auto level" HIDs? The guy was nice enough to allow me to have 1 month rego so I can get it fixed (also got to put my rims on a diet).

Hey all! I recently purchased a '02 Stag as a family car. When it finally arrived from interstate and I had taken it to the local MVR to go over the pits for rego the guy there said that the HID on my low beams are illegal because they don't have auto leveling and the ability to wash the headlight cover. I am sure a few of you out there that may know or work in the industry can shed some light on this. The headlights list being fitted with H1 55W 12V globes by a company in QLD I assume at the time of compliance into the country (I will take a pic and post it in a few mins, thought I had one on my phone ) I found a level adjust switch in the cabin and noticed that when I had taken it to the MVR it was on it's highest level setting; I think that's what started this whole auto leveling fiasco. My brother-in-law is a dirty dirty Chaser owner and he has the same setup, HID on low beams with the manual adjuster and has never had any problems with going MVR pits. Any information on the matter would be fantastic. Even if it's a link to a topic that covers this that I couldn't find. Cheers!

Tried that as well....still no luck.

Sorry what is WOT?? I have tested spark by doing as you stated. And yes the fuel pump does prime. and confirmed fuel is coming out near rail by disconnecting the feed line and confirming fuel pumps out. I have also tried using "Start ya Bastard" with no luck.

To me it sounds like piston rings. Anyone concur? either that or oil is getting into your fuel supply at some point causing oily plugs and excess oil being burnt in the exhaust. in that case it could be too much oil around your cams - probly on the intake side (cause you got oil on your plugs) Which Plug(s) came back with oil all over them? going by your compression it could be cyl 3.

If the sensors are faulty would the ECU stop the car from firing? My RB25 ran fine for awhile then died (sounded like it ran out of fuel). It just winds over now, sounds like it is just bout to kick then starts winding up again. I have replaced my spark plugs and coil packs (tested for spark), replaced my Fuel Pump and confirmed fuel is getting to the rail and can smell fuel in the cylinder after winding. Checked my timing and valve gaps. Also tested with another ECU incase mine was faulty - same thing occurs (mate was sure it was the ECU) The only thing i can think off is electrical, i have gone over the loom probably bout 5 or 6 times checking all the terminals and cleaning the contacts and also checking Fuses visually and with a multimeter. Just thought i would ask incase anyone has any other thoughts before i take it to someone.

Thanks for the advice fellas/ladies Craved hit the nail on the head, in my retardation i got the fuel lines round the wrong way...lol Engine runs sweet except for maybe a belt or two a bit tight and had to re-oil the cams.

Will check with some start ya bastard. Before putting on the cases i twisted the crank pully around a few rotations to check for if it would skip any teeth but will check again just to be sure.

the plugs were oily but i cleaned them up and i only checked 3 of them (randomly) and they were sparking. Might try them all