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So I tried packing the pivot point with a 5mm washer, after removing the 2mm washer, put gearbox back together and no change in the clutch play. still 10mm of travel before biting. but the clutch fork had very little movement when the gearbox went back in so to avoid further damage as my clutch starts to wear, I pulled the gearbox back out, put the 2mm washer back in, took off the 5mm washer and set it back to normal. it hurts having to pull the box out twice in a day with no result but that's trial and error I guess, next step will be a larger master cylinder I think, will have to search around for these as I haven't heard of larger clutch masters for my car, just the larger slave, which wont help IMO.

Thanks GTSBoy Could you tell me how much play you have before the clutch engages as a guideline? before when you had r32 box and after the r33 box went in just to give me a guideline on where it should be, cheers for the reply!

I recently upgraded to a r33 gearbox in my r32 gts-t. The clutch was engaging even with my clutch foot to the floor when I put the r33 box in. I fixed this by adjusting the clutch rod under the dash. But now when I put my clutch to the floor and release, the clutch engages 0.7cm off the floor, where previously I had a little more than an inch maybe more before the clutch engaged.. -------------------- I'm using an r33 slave cylinder (both the r33 and r32 are 3/4) I have standard master clutch cylinder (I assume the r33 and r32 are the same bore size: 5/8) I compared clutch forks between r32 and r33 and they are identical I compared thrust bearing and between r32 and r33 they are identical in length (r33 is a little fatter, looks more solid but no difference in length) inspected pressure plate and looks good, my clutch is at 70% and the flywheel was machined originally I can not adjust the rod off the clutch under dash, there is nothing left I've adjusted as far as it can go entire system is bleed with no air gaps (did this a few times with no change to engagement point) I even tried a modified longer bolt to put in the slave, it didn't change anything but thought later on it would do nothing anyway as the master bore size would have to be bigger to push it any further The only things I can think of now are: r32 pivot point is 10mm shorter than the r33 one. but measuring both boxes from the pivot point end to the end of bell housing is 5mm difference I can not simply put on the old r32 pivot point onto the r33 one as (I assume) will make it worse, I am considering putting an extra spacer under the pivot point to raise it up. I am also considering getting a larger bore master cylinder so that I can push the slave bolt further but r33 and r32 master's are all 5\8 I have read many threads and no one else has seem to had this problem, or they did but simply adjusted the rod or lived with the engagement point. Has anyone experienced this and have worked through it? any suggestions or advice would be great. Thanks! Andrew

Hi, My CAS is on the way out and I need a replacement, anyone have one for sale in good working order? Should have 02U10 lightly engraved on the CAS Thanks Andrew

Hi, After an indicator stalk in good working order for r32 gtst, perferably Brisbane.

if you still have any i'll take one , can you please send payment details

hi, might be interested. my name is Andrew give me a call on 0423 857 011

sorry for the late reply but i have been working on the front suspension all day.. i took some photos, i think i will need to make a metal spacer about 10mm thick (b/c thats how much approx the subframe moved up) so i dont hit the body work. that and hammer the floor. i cant grind the floor b/c it will make it weaker. http://www.filefront.com/17018977/015.JPG http://www.filefront.com/17019005/012.JPG sorry if the images came out poorly, they look ok in photo viewer but not good in paint i test fitted the swaybar, but the screws to the bracket are not all the way in, so i will have less room as seen in the photo when they are tight. any imput would be great, but if no suggestions i will make metal bracket and hammer floor as stated above and let you know how i went. got it booked in for corner balance etc on tureday, i hope i make it!!

Ive installed solid alloy subframe bushes in my 32 gtst, and installed it flush with the car. I also added a whiteline swaybar. Combined with the subframe being raised and the thicker swaybar, my swaybar is now hitting a seam on the body of the car.... I need the swaybar to move freely, so im wondering if you encountered this problem with the alloys? http://lorhz.com/Images/sway%20bar.JPG thanks!

in the market for buying 17" rims for track/street with decent offset. after a quick sale If i can't find any ill go with rota p45r's 17" +30 9.5 in bronze so if your looking to offload your rims put your f/s link here so i can have a look.. Ive been looking around lately but havent seen much in the way of 17", i own a r32 gtst and will roll guards / have adj f+r camber arms.. Around the 2k-2.2k mark for 2nd hand JDM rims in good condition, im in brissy. show me what you got please.

win! i'll give you a call tomorrow mate

yeah cheers mate, not even having luck overseas either, annoying to say the least

justjap.com i brought mine form there and are really good. ------------- Cheers for the reply Andrew, but i was after the solid alloy bushes, not these Noltec Rear Subframe Cradle Bush Set - Nissan RWD But if i have no luck i might have to go with these ones, ill give justjap a call tomorrow, but do you have to use pineapples with these? i dont care about harshness or noise cheers for the quick reply, only have 2 weeks until the subframe comes out.

Anyone know where i can buy these from in australia? i have searched for many hours and sent a bunch of emails trying to find these for my car but have come up short. Ive tried driftshop (dont make in my car) / searched this site / japspeed / ebay and many other places but no one sells them for the r32 gtst. and others dont send internationally.... any help would be great! perfer to buy in australia! im not after the Alloy subframe locking bush or pineapples, im after the direct replacement Solid Alloy subframe bushes. http://www.jappartsuk.com/store/uploads/im...s_large/353.jpg Cheers Andrew

thanks for the reply, what has happened is the connector from one of the lines of the sub harness became detached when installing, so we fixed that and did another ecu test.. code 55 All OK !! only thing is the symptoms are still occuring, is it just coinsidence that the knock sensor repair had given me terrible stuttering and when i rev it to 3.5-4rpm im getting vaccum the whole time, no boost? We actually had changed the fuel pump to a walbro 550 hp pump that morning, so possible a faulty fuel pump?? so i hope that with the bigger fuel pump its pushed a lot of crap into the fuel filter so im going to get it replaced now. anyway ill have a hunt around the forums since i think i know what the issue is now and get some ideas one step at a time cheers