deant1

fark the clutch, just rev it right up each gear and quick shift but yea, sounds more to me like the clutch is not engaging fully. and you could actually try clutchless shifting to see if the clutch is the problem. PS: you will probably get allot more crunching learning how to shift without a clutch though lol, i did. key is to just give the revs a nice blip and then slip it in. EDIT: mybad didn't read the last reply

but if the skyline has 25/30 and is forged also where is the benefit now? apart from oil issues etc (iv been told is not too hard to fix with the neo). same displacement and same choice of turbos. and i just read the 34 would handle better? if that's correct then same power potential and better handling? why is the supra the clear winner? not going from stock cars. this is a thread where each car can have whatever suspension/engine refinements done to it. oh yeah and that included having an LSD on the GTT to match the supra! you could even think of it like this. supra VVTi RZ $35k or 34 GTT $25k so you get 10k to spend on the 34 to match the supra...

Wondering what the general opinions are out of these two... my feeling is that the 2j is the better engine (stock capable of 800hp safely, better oil feed etc etc) however imo maximum response is king anyway and that is going to be within 300rwkw which is plenty within the 25's safe roof when you add some forgies to the equation. supras can reach 300k's from stock but that's got allot to do with the gearbox (6 speed getrag v 5 speed on the 34) imo, 2j = better block and rb is better head. both cars are about the same weight. both cars are single turb - most high pwr supras have a single conversion. and the 25 for the sake of this discussion includes the 25/30 conversion and also the 28 stroker conversion. does anyone know the weight balance of the 34 gtt? i know the supra is something crazy like 47% on the rear and 53% on the front which is dam good i think! hopefully the 34 is around the same! i don't want to admit the supra is a better car!!!!!! back this up ppl

i'm not sure about the nitriding. Any boring of the cast block would be simply a fraction of a milimetre to ensure the tolerances are spot on. no where near enough to weaken the wall of the cast.

Not sure which part of my post you want me to explain more, but: Cast iron (cast anything infact) - soft on the inside and hard on the outside. depending on the size of the cast but generally speaking you don't want to bore out a cast block because at least you are making the hard walls thinner. Nitriding - the cyclinder surface is hardened using nitriding, expensive to get the cylinders re-nitrided. and it is a key reason why the cylinders are so durable in RB engines. Cast iron and nitriding = very hard and durable surface. depending on the amount of material removed from the walls ( if you get them bored) would decide on how much you degrade this surface. The practicle way of getting past this is simply boring to a size that allows you to insert cylinder sleeves which come ready hardened! hope i answered any of the q's you had, EDIT: i thought the cylinders were nitrided also, but if i'm wrong it doesn't really matter because sleeving is used to combat the problems of boring in to cast. same outcome.

what turbos does the z-tune use and what is simiular? all i know is that they are IHI.

yea allot of the so called 'cold induction box's' arn't as efficient as the standard air intake. leave it stock and replace the air filter to a high flow one. imo, best option. allthough if you want pods then chopping the stocker is not a bad idea. In saying that even just a heat shield will do a decent job if you want pods so the aftermarket box's arn't that bad. depends how far you want to go.

you mean bore to accomadate sleeves for the next size bore. otherwise the engine wont last too long. boring says good bye to cast hardness and for RB's goodbye to nitride hardening.

maybe ur tyres are flat i pumped mine up last week and dropped down literally 2 - 2.5 litres per 100k so far.

what's the history of the engine? if you know. just noticed in one of the pics the bonet dampener has what looks like heavy oil stains all over it and a bit of dirt too. or did you just wash the car and it's wet? hard to tell in the pic! more info the better, cheers.

fact is if they want your car that badly. it's theirs. i liked the idea of removeable steering wheels. cool and very effective hah. but another alternative is to get a direct kill switch to your fuel pump. just hide the switch under your seat or something. good luck trying to start the car without fuel!!!! they can twiddle with wires in the dash for as long as they want

looks like a curve to me

i didn't know there was an actual SAU logo? what does it look like?

had a little play. there seems to be two camps? one likes plain but effective. The other seems to prefer something that stands out of the crows a little. I gues there is occasions for both types of design so i played further with my plain design. SA-R = South Australian Resident Plain and simple. can also have one large logo central front. i prefer smaller to the side... Shot at 2007-07-16 Stands out a bit more. better for events etc i would think. people will actually notice this hoody and the advertisement would be seen more imo. Shot at 2007-07-16

youd want to keep the designs as simple and with least amount of colours possible. simpler looks better imo anyway... for 3 different lights you'd need three different designs which probably would cost more. plus you might end up bringing up the "i want GTR on mine too!"

are you located near flagstaff?

but remember that a modded one 'normally' shows that it's been well looked after and serviced regularly. not always the case if you buy a stocker from someone who didn't realise oil needed topping up But yea, agreed. heavily used track/drift weapons are probably a good thing to not buy! plus if you buy a stocker you can keep all your stock parts so you can swap everything back when you get your visits to regency

bigger difference than that. allot.

any more pics? was the engine rebuilt with any goodies? what kind of psi can it take atm...

Umn, just wondering if you have completely changed your suspension and stiffened the chassis? because if you have stock 32 sus/shocks and lack of bracing then it's not the weight that's making it feel fat... Address if you have not allready, them issues. ie- coilovers, struts, sways and then start thinking about changing panels to save a few kg's here and there. 32 gtst are light compared to 33 and 34's obv and i can guarantee there is plenty of 33/34's you could drive that would feel allot sharper and lighter but are actually a fair bit heavier than your car. something to think about! Cheers.

yea 34 GTR is better. so is 32 and 33 gtr. but if you got the money 34 is good choice! 25-30k is all you can ask for in the current market. imo anyway. Best of Luck.

That is what he does not know. along with a billion others. so he asked for some help. reading through peoples opinions he will find the general curve to what the majority of people think is the best.

cheers m8. i assume the ones in the pic are 19's?

i'm keen. not played for a while but i used to play CSS, BF2, Q4, SOF2, UT03 and heaps of others so yea judging by that fps games Only got bf2 installed atm. anyone play that online? if so what rooms? not internode tho cause im banned lol

the ones in this pic!!! what are they? look awsome i think. Shot at 2007-07-06