deant1

Well a guy i work with is an engine reconditioner by trade and he's done allot of boring in his life. He told me RB blocks are bullet proof when untouched, never seem to wear much at all (especially RB30 blocks). But once they are boared it's a very different story, much faster wear etc. using inserts will prevent this happening. As most people will know Cast iron only has a hard outer skin (add to this nissan uses gas nitriding to harden the surface further) and the inside is very very soft. Generally the skin only has about <2mm of 'hard' surface. If you want to take of 5mm from the diamater that's a 2.5mm deep bore which is most likely the castings skin gone or very thin at best. Hence the reason people use inserts because they provide the skin again. Machine shops will gladly do the work i'm sure but don't expect your block to last as long. personally id go for inserts especially on a bore that big. PS: Incase i confised anyone. it's not the strength of the wall's that i'm talking about it's the hardness which will casue premature wearing of the block. You don't want that!

what effect will it have on newer box's?

isn't that only when people remove the HICAS chip? (to disable the dash light) effects the powersteering or something? Not sure.

boring out an engine and then not inserting sleeves = engine rebuild in the near future.

how does this work? i don't understand how a 2 litre 4 cylinder engine can get power like that!!!! please inform me lol Video link : http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kdwCQo54kiM

where will you stick it?

bad picture quality but from what i can see it looks nothing like a crack... like said above, a casting mark. As far as the gasket goes, if it's the origional one then id change it. or at least take it off and re apply with gasket sealant. small leaks normally mean gasket problems. But again like above you can play with snoop (which pretty much is soapy water) if you want but if the bolt was loose id put money that the seal was broken and can easily be fixed!

do they make 'medium' weight ones

i saw a 32 with a full 34 conversion.... looked sick. Not like a 34 but like a futuristic 34 lol! i saw it on sinergy motorsports pc when i was there so i guess you could give them a ring and see if they can point you in the right direction. sinergymotorsport.com.au

depends how well you want it fixed. Carbon fibre once cracked is never the same again. However bonets don't really need to be all that strong.... Really it should be filled using a resin specifically for the job but for what a bonet does you could just use normal filler and get it painted. PS: bonets are made of the crappest carbon fibre normally anyway. short fibre and lots of resin...

Arn't them engines all alloy? As for guts RB25 or RB26 can provide you with all the power you could ever desire...

Do they lock/ remove HICAS on professional racing cars? I imadgine they do for Pro drift for obvious reasons. But iv got a feeling it is there for a reason. Anyone know? does Z tune GTR have it?

would not worry about the air flow to cylinders... the way it is shaped looks good enough to me. tighter space at the rear than the front and as the air comes in it is forced to the back also. Companies don't make these things without putting in serious thought and testing.

Seen it in the flesh at adelaide drift comp. Only reason he did it was because it's cheaper to look after. Car looks awsome but when i looked around it i had no idea what was under the hood...

Keep it as it is. Then pay nissan however much they want to get there best of the best to design and build my own custom designed skyline. simiular to the 34 shape i reckon but with the new 3.5 twin turbo!

Thats what i thought when i read that haha. Driver ability in a straight line with an auto car. must need heaps. but, maybe he meant driver ability for the guys in the v8's??? maybe they tried to launch in third gear!!!

The GTR replica that fits GTT with GTR bonet assuming the adjustment is just so you dont need new front wings. Even better get GTR front wings!!!!! (and save for rear too) GTR just looks such a better shape than GTT and the difference is not that much physically.

anyone on the forums currently running a full GTR bodykit on a GTT?????? I think it makes GTT look allot better. shame all the parts as far as iv read have to come from nissan $$$$

i'm in adelaide. would also love to see pics of the car. engine bay, interior, exterior and exhaust would be nice. cheers.

Jun GTR front bar or this top secret one... http://www.autoaero.com.au/shop2/product_i...products_id=277 There is no modifications needed to fit a GTR bar and bonet to a GTT right????????

you can have RWD action in a GTR too. and pulling out the front shaft is not necissary. you can either have pure trak ability with AWD or have some RWD fun when you want. I'v been in the same circumstances as you. was deciding between r34 GTT or R33 GTR. GTR is the way to go if you have cash to maintain/ modify one. 2x diff, 2x turbo bla bla. plus imo. GTR will always hold there value better than a GTT. Any GTR. but if the cash isn't flowing like you wished then a 34 GTT is the way to go. still super fast capable car. just them hoons in wrx's might get you off the line and claim victory after 20 meters :laughing-smiley-014:

pics dont work.

Is the car sold? They have directed me to a direct importer who deals mainly with 33 GTR's.

link doesn't work

I enquired to the dealer about shipping and registration certification tests etc. And was told they have to do a roadworthy there and i have to do one here in adelaide. They think it will pass. I know that's some bs i got told because the mods list includes boost controller and afermarket BOV. I know for a fact that them two items will not pass the test. Stil interested in this car though because unlike them you obviously knew what you were doing when you looked after and tuned it up! I just know that regency are very tight against anything and everything! not sure what other mods would be a problem? aftermarket cams etc??? anyone know? cheers