Yme33

you could try gavin at http://www.ritepriceautos.com.au/workshop.php they are at kawana i bought my car from gavin and they have a yard that complies them, owned my car for 3 years and not had an problem with it, got an check from an independent aswell, as there workshop when they imported it.

im going but leave the line in the garage again

how long you had the car?, could be an aftermarket product was on the car and removed before came to aus and the wire not tapped up causing an earth problem. electrical can be alot of things.

have you noticed any fluid levels dropping? could be an loose clamp on your rack and pinon, rear main seal or gearbox seal.

I had a similar problem with my old datsun suffered from VD (Voltage Drop) was only when it was cold mornings when warm no problem to start. does it play up in weather? or cold as not normal running temp?.

same as Mad082 take it to a steering place worse off you could have bent the subframe a lil, the steering mob will find that out and can put it on a jig to straighten it, hope it is only the tie rod and nothing else if so easy to replace and get a wheel alignment after it done.

I just moved down here, and I see alot or hear alot of cars getting epa'd is it that bad here?.

I had the same problem with my R33-t checked plugs was fine and ended up replacing my coil packs with splitfire, now no problems, they seem to build up some heat in that channel and give an hair line crack, but that was my problem.

Same i watched the race and when you see the start of pack with the pace car hmm lets just show another camera angle, dont they use if for advertisement i wonder if nissan will do it next year. And boy do i miss the days when it was an production car race, I wonder how many fans the supertaxi's lost when it all changed.

PM Sent

Sounds like a good price, as I have seen em for $120 ea on the front, waitin back for some more quotes. Did you use an bearing puller for the back ones?, or the old grind and hax trix?.

Hey All, Just a quick quest' not sure if it should be in this thread?, Where do you get your wheel bearings from, had one colapse on me today front drivers (well thats what it sounds like) , might aswell replace both, do you get em from autobarn? or a bearing shop?, do they even have these on the shelf here?, they should as most cars use the same type and size. Thnx

did this fix the problem I bought an FMIC off them and im running unlimited boost, before hand it was 14 psi which is still to high, now when boost hits it hits, high boost wooooooo rich n retard spikes to 20 psi, noticed it dosnt have the T peice in the inlet pipe so might be the problem even fixed up an Vac leek before this, man sometimes i hate the problems with Skylines.

I think it might be to do with more flow, bigger exhaust and better intake, as I have got the same thing here freed up my system than installed an Auto Meter boost gauge and im hitting 1 bar (14.7psi) on high boost. The way I look at it is now it is freed up it will be harder to get less boost, bleed valve might work but the system is working better, one way is to maybe put in an exhaust valve half close to restrict flow and noise, and when ya want to have some fun just open it to full open and wala.

whats the easiest way to change the psi without an bleed valve?, change the spring in the waste gate?.