Yme33

you could try gavin at http://www.ritepriceautos.com.au/workshop.php they are at kawana i bought my car from gavin and they have a yard that complies them, owned my car for 3 years and not had an problem with it, got an check from an independent aswell, as there workshop when they imported it.

im going but leave the line in the garage again

how long you had the car?, could be an aftermarket product was on the car and removed before came to aus and the wire not tapped up causing an earth problem. electrical can be alot of things.

have you noticed any fluid levels dropping? could be an loose clamp on your rack and pinon, rear main seal or gearbox seal.

I had a similar problem with my old datsun suffered from VD (Voltage Drop) was only when it was cold mornings when warm no problem to start. does it play up in weather? or cold as not normal running temp?.

same as Mad082 take it to a steering place worse off you could have bent the subframe a lil, the steering mob will find that out and can put it on a jig to straighten it, hope it is only the tie rod and nothing else if so easy to replace and get a wheel alignment after it done.

I just moved down here, and I see alot or hear alot of cars getting epa'd is it that bad here?.

I had the same problem with my R33-t checked plugs was fine and ended up replacing my coil packs with splitfire, now no problems, they seem to build up some heat in that channel and give an hair line crack, but that was my problem.

Same i watched the race and when you see the start of pack with the pace car hmm lets just show another camera angle, dont they use if for advertisement i wonder if nissan will do it next year. And boy do i miss the days when it was an production car race, I wonder how many fans the supertaxi's lost when it all changed.

PM Sent

Sounds like a good price, as I have seen em for $120 ea on the front, waitin back for some more quotes. Did you use an bearing puller for the back ones?, or the old grind and hax trix?.

Hey All, Just a quick quest' not sure if it should be in this thread?, Where do you get your wheel bearings from, had one colapse on me today front drivers (well thats what it sounds like) , might aswell replace both, do you get em from autobarn? or a bearing shop?, do they even have these on the shelf here?, they should as most cars use the same type and size. Thnx

did this fix the problem I bought an FMIC off them and im running unlimited boost, before hand it was 14 psi which is still to high, now when boost hits it hits, high boost wooooooo rich n retard spikes to 20 psi, noticed it dosnt have the T peice in the inlet pipe so might be the problem even fixed up an Vac leek before this, man sometimes i hate the problems with Skylines.

I think it might be to do with more flow, bigger exhaust and better intake, as I have got the same thing here freed up my system than installed an Auto Meter boost gauge and im hitting 1 bar (14.7psi) on high boost. The way I look at it is now it is freed up it will be harder to get less boost, bleed valve might work but the system is working better, one way is to maybe put in an exhaust valve half close to restrict flow and noise, and when ya want to have some fun just open it to full open and wala.

whats the easiest way to change the psi without an bleed valve?, change the spring in the waste gate?.

+1 here if someone has a copy on disc in english i will pay for it, to help you for buying it.

thanks all nope no noises here havnt wired up the light yet but it only runs off the parkers so i cant see that as a problem, sounds like yours have the warning buzz and light for if it gets too hot.

Hey all, had a check and cant find one, Bought me an Auto Meter boost gauge ultra light mechanical series, fitted it to the vacuum line on the throtle body and getting an reading of 7 psi low boost and 14 psi high boost, yet my stock reads 6 psi low and 7+ on high would this be true?, as i am running a supposed stock R33 fresh import from Japan. Parts fitted are, Just Jap 3" turbo back dump, Apexi pod, Looks like an Nismo ECU havn't pulled it out yet, Cant find any signs of boost controller or tampered waste gate, could it be from the ECU or maybe an High flow stock turbo any signs to know if it is?. Duane

Now im in the same boat here, bought an Auto Meter gauge new Ultra series 2 1/16" and it says im hittin 7 psi low boost and 14 on high but stock gauge reads around 6 low and +7 high, now i'm running a supposed stock r33 with an 3' turb back with dump and pod filter, i noticed that my ECU seems to be an Nismo havn't pulled it out yet could this be the culprit?, oh im running stock intercooler too, going to start a new thread and ask.

it wont run out they will make an Bio Fuel like they have with diesel what is it new and improved, how can it be new if its improved?.

+3 coils replaced mine with split fires and gone, now sooo smooth.

mine where disconected from japan and after market fitted, which saw them removed for compliance, and originals not connected, i'll get around to it one day.

what where they thinking with the last one, lol kasmash and almost took out those 2 guys.

the other reason they dont show auction sheets is it points out what damage was done to the car, and performance bits taken off and replaced with standard, so you get that its never been modified by the salesman.

go to your local second hand dealer and ask them they should help,my is through AWN and after reading the terms what a waste of time, they dont do much realy sounds good but comes to the crunch and no thankyou. Save ya cash