4R33L

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Yep have dyno sheets available... Gtx3076, .82rear housing t3 bolt up

1998 R34 GT-T Sedan Factory Manual Factory Sunroof Factory Nismo Kit Engine out full body silver re-spray Rays TE37SL 18 x 9.5 +22 Engine fully detailed and all clips and fixing replaced with new from Nissan RB25DETNEO with RB26 Rocker and timing belt covers painted candy red Head reworked by head torque with receipts, including seals, valves and Tomei spec 2 Camshafts ARP head studs and cometic triple layer head gasket NPC Carbon single plate clutch with custom lightened flywheel Garret GTX 3076R Turbo highly polished on high mount Greedy copy manifold Turbosmart 50mm external gate with Screamer Genuine Greedy Plenum, highly polished with polished hyper tune fuel rail( twin entry) 1000cc Xpurt injectors with 200series fuel lines running on E85 Full custom stainless piping and exhaust, highly polished done by Sanders Racing Full braided lines throughout, all brand new and all speedflow All factory options remain intake including traction control and air condition, all working 100% Power FC with Z32 hidden on intake side under bumper HKS EVC boost controller All wiring in engine bay hidden in guards Battery relocated to boot Bride Low max reclinable front seat with carbon backs Full Bridge retrim to door panels, rear seat and console Alpine top model head unit Kenwood splits front and rear Tein coilovers, with adjustable caster rods and camber arms RDA dimpled and slotted all round, EBC Red brake pads and HELS braided lines, detailed calipers front and rear All other Fluids replaced with Redline including gearbox, clutch and radiator Car has been recently tuned by ProTune and makes a safe 500hp@20pound with E85 I could go on and on.. I have a few pics but to really appreciate the car a viewing in person is highly recommended. $25,000 ono... Lowballers not need apply as i'm not desperate for sale and i don't need the money

1998 R34 GT-T Sedan Factory Manual Factory Sunroof Factory Nismo Kit Engine out full body silver re-spray Rays TE37SL 18 x 9.5 +22 Engine fully detailed and all clips and fixing replaced with new from Nissan RB25DETNEO with RB26 Rocker and timing belt covers painted candy red Head reworked by head torque with receipts, including seals, valves and Tomei spec 2 Camshafts ARP head studs and cometic triple layer head gasket NPC Carbon single plate clutch with custom lightened flywheel Garret GTX 3076R Turbo highly polished on high mount Greedy copy manifold Turbosmart 50mm external gate with Screamer Genuine Greedy Plenum, highly polished with polished hyper tune fuel rail( twin entry) 1000cc Xpurt injectors with 200series fuel lines running on E85 Full custom stainless piping and exhaust, highly polished done by Sanders Racing Full braided lines throughout, all brand new and all speedflow All factory options remain intake including traction control and air condition, all working 100% Power FC with Z32 hidden on intake side under bumper HKS EVC boost controller All wiring in engine bay hidden in guards Battery relocated to boot Bride Low max reclinable front seat with carbon backs Full Bridge retrim to door panels, rear seat and console Alpine top model head unit Kenwood splits front and rear Tein coilovers, with adjustable caster rods and camber arms RDA dimpled and slotted all round, EBC Red brake pads and HELS braided lines, detailed calipers front and rear All other Fluids replaced with Redline including gearbox, clutch and radiator Car has been recently tuned by ProTune and makes a safe 500hp@20pound with E85 I could go on and on.. I have a few pics but to really appreciate the car a viewing in person is highly recommended. $25,000 ono... Lowballers not need apply as i'm not desperate for sale and i don't need the money

Ive got a turbo of a R34.. done approx 80km $200

As title says... I have an OP6 turbo from a R34 Neo, engine and turbo have only done 80,000km, turbo is in good NIC, not throwing any oil and has normal shaft play Turbo comes with manifold, oil and water lines, intake pipe the lot $300

As title says... I have an OP6 turbo from a R34 Neo, engine and turbo have only done 80,000km, turbo is in good NIC, not throwing any oil and has normal shaft play Turbo comes with manifold, oil and water lines, intake pipe the lot $300

Pm sent RE: Motor... Please reply!

When I put mine on the dyno, stock turbo, fmic and Pfc the turbo stopped making power after 12pound! We screwed it to 1bar and it lost power! I think keep it around 12 pound and your turbo will last a lot longer then at 1 bar and u make more power!

Ok so just puttin this out there, unsure if anyone would be interested but I have a R34 RB25 DET Neo that has been over heated and cracked the block, we removed the head and checked it over, had it skimmed by a mate and preasure tested OK... The motor will be sold only as a short motor, head and block only, No bolt ons! Motor has a Cometic triple layer head gasket and HKS timing belt both done about 2,000km max so probly still OK to use! I am assuming the only value here is in the head and most will argue that's once its been hot its ready for the bin, so buy at your own risk!!! Offers around $800???

No idea, didn't measure before sending off! Can't have been too bad, car was running ok, no water in oil and comp was only down about 15psi... I'm going to put it back together with stock cams see how it goes, if its no good ill pull it and buy new motor otherwise ill just screw boost and try get some fun out of it before it breaks!

I have a greddy plenum so the water temp sensor remains in standard location. The hose on the cold start under the plenum was we're the leak was, the main supply hose let go so it pumped all the coolant out very quik... I don't think the head was warped too badly as the head guy at first said it doesn't seem too bad with the figures I gave him. I will measure as u guys suggest but I also have arp head studs so maybe I can just tighten it down and pull back down flat?

Just an update for those that are intrested... So we did a comp test on the motor last week, found cyl 3-4-5 all down around 115psi! Straite away suspected warped head, so we removed the head and sent it off for X-ray, preasure test and skim. Found head warped hard... Took 3 skims to get flat again but lucky that was the only damage done! No damage to valves and no cracks in the head or damage to the cams so stocked with the results. Checked the block with a straite edge also just to be double sure and all is fine! Thank f@ck! I have bought another triple layer Cometic head gasket but after I did I was told u don't need to replace after 1 use specially with the low ks mine had done (approx 3,000)! Does anyone know if this is correct? I'm fitting the new one now anyway but just intrested in finding out of this is correct...

I would say being a 25 with an ali head, ya mate prob over heated it and warped the head or cracked as stated above causing your water in oil affect. This is not uncommon, I have had my head off twice now on my 25neo!

bit of an usual one guys but here goes.... So I have a R34 Rb25DET Neo with Tomei spec 2 cams, cometic triple layer head gasket, ARP head studs, high, mount, greddy plenum, pfc usual kind of stuff everyone has now days... I was driving it yesterday down the fwy, when I pulled off the fwy I noticed my temp was at 106, I wasn't far from my mates house so I kept driving to his house, keeping an eye on the temp and it wasn't increasing as I was moving, I know this is still bad.... Anyway as im just about to pull into his street I notice my oil temp is almost maxed out on my temp gauge. So I shut the motor down and let it cool. We found the cause of why the car got hot, simple coolant leak under plenum, repaired leaked, refilled with water, rebleed system and all seems fine now. The problem I am concerned about is now when it idles it seems to be a lot lumpier then it ever was before with the cams. I drove the car about 40km home, cracked gate a few times and all seems to be as normal. I am wondering now if maybe serious damage has been done inside the motor after heating it so much? I am doing to dump all oil and water this week and change out the plugs, prob do a compression test also just to make sure all is OK. Any ideas? anyone heard of this before? Should I check anything else?