Cleutin

Event: DB DRAG AUSTRALIA SPL COMPETITION AND CAR SHOW Location 3-19 University Drive Meadowbrook When Saturday JULY 5 – starts at 6pm Details SPL comp sponsored by Atomic and run by Car Tunez, Trophies up for grabs in all classes Sound Quality Competition run and judged by MEASQ - Mobile Electronics Australia (formerly Car Audio Australia) Car Show sponsored by Option Audio with trophies and prizes for: Best Club Best Car on the night Best Illumination Best Install Encouragement + more

PM Sent

whats the model number of the sub?

so trim the plastic lip and flush mount them

whats the mounting depth of VDO and Blau (havnt installed them as yet) I know Fusion 6" are bloody deep, probably a smidge deeper then Type R's

the R33 that i put the Alpines into had the factory pods, we made a 6mm speaker ring to sit inside that. took 10min max to make a cardboard template, trace that onto the MDF, cut the MDF, sand the edges to get rid of the flash, and screw straight in with the speaker - into the factory holes. only reason we took the factory pod off was to put sound deadening on the door and inside the door.

Chris, are you talking about the pod inside the door, removing that and making custom?

Pods... take time to make, means screwing them, onto doors - OR cutting your doors and going straight onto teh metal work Spacers - easy to make, 6mm means u wont have the excursion of the speaker hitting on the door card as there is sufficient room.

make a speaker ring out of 6mm MDF and u will have no worries. I put a set of Alpine Type R splits into a GTR33 today, huge mounting depth on them of 70mm just made up a spacer to fit inside the factory mount and had no worries at all.

i have a JL Audio 1000/1 Monoblock RRP $1598.00 http://www.customcar.com.au/index.cfm?p=search selling for $800 + post regulated power supply, so as your voltage drops, it works better. also puts out 1000rms at 1ohm, 2ohm, 4ohm. http://mobile.jlaudio.com/products_amps.php?amp_id=221 had it running a JL 15w3 sub and did 152.2dB

pm sent

running 6x9s AND a sub.... you do realise that the sub will cancel the 6x9s out and make them ineffective. concentrate on a top end front stage with the sub. it will sound a lot better then. 2ch for front splits monoblock for the sub.

You can cut the parcel shelf. Provided.... You dont cut within 50mm of child seat restraint bolts. and You only cut the minimun amount required to fit the speakers in. Even after telling customers that its not advisable to do so, and trying to talk them into buyin speakers that will fit, but we will still cut them if a customer wont be swayed.

Battery - 4g cable - 100A ANL Fuse - 4g cable - fused distro block (1x 4g in and 2x 8g out - as close to the amps as possible) - 8g to each amp with 4g earths why run 2 power cables from your battery when you can run 1 and get more power to the back after splitting it 30cm from the amps and get the same power to each of them, as if they had 4g running to them. Audioline wiring kit AL010 has everything you will need. If you already have the wiring, i have a fused distro block.

yep. when i did R33GTS's spacers i made a template so i can just make them when ever i need to without having to measure up again. pretty much the same as Fhrx's. i used 6mm MDF and i had no worries. for the 6x9 spacers, he already had a set in, but 16mm spacers would work a treat if u were to buy pre made ones.

6.5" will fit if you make an MDF ring to sit them on. 6x9s in parcel shelf are easy. did them last week for -R33GTS- All you need is spacers and they sit perfectly.

rainbow splits + Tru Tech amps = box of kleenex needed for clean up lol

no worries mate, weve had customers go off their nuts at us when something has gone wrong - it happens. best one is when they want their factory CD stacker to work with their new headunit.... ummmm yeah..... not gonna happen when the deck isnt designed for it. or when sales guys sell stuff that doesnt fit in cars and we have to cut and modify stuff... like speakers that are too big for the speaker holes.... she sounded damn nice.

You had the headunit, fronts speakers and rear speakers done? your mum dropped the car off for you as you were at work you didnt have the required brackets to mount the deck and pocket properly, and didnt want to go to nissan to get them. They sales guy was Dan, he spend a couple of hours looking at the car and didnt see the big hole in your dash. Your mum called him rude and unhelpful. We looked at it in the fitting bay and picked it straight away. advised your mum that brackets were needed, but would see what we could do - ended up getting around it without the brackets. The problem with the dash lights is the dome light fuse is blown and needs to be fixed. already know about it and have the fuse on the front bench for when your car comes in, by the sounds of it 1 wire needs to be swapped in the loom, looks like the apprentice hit the illumination slot by accident instead of the earth. its under warrenty and should only take 15min to fix and check to make sure its all 100%. sorry for the inconvenience, i know i made the same mistake when i started doing headunits, but its easy to fix. by the way - nice skyline, nice and clean, still factory black paint job looks very tidy edit: spelling.... 2nd edit... your in chapel hill, just down the road from me. seen your car around, i thought i recognised it at work.

cheers Fhrx, shows i can only get loud, and not have SQ (apart from my 3rd at Spinfest lol)

Andyn, the kit we used is $70 per sheet, its expensive lol, better to buy the bootkit which gives you 5 sheets. 18"x32" trav33, the stinger Roadkill stuff is soft and plyable, no need for heat or sunlight to soften it.

Name: Matt Age: 24 Trade: Auto Accessories Fitter Where: Brisbane all aspects of stereo, from headunits, speakers, through to showcars. alarms, hardwired GPS and SatNav, central locking, remote starts (auto only, manual is illegal)

Skylines are easy for HU installs. Sounds like when he has taken the hazard lights constant he has managed to split the insulation by pulling it through and its causing a short whenever it hits metal, or he forgot to solder and tape the join. must solder it or it can pierce through the tape and still cause a short. thus blowing the rear tail lights fuse. Best spot to pull constant from is the ignition barrel (its where i go to straight away if there is no constant or accessories power in the plug where you put your deck) sounds like you need to go to an installer and pay for a system check and rewire. dont pay anymore then $40. Where are you located? i might be able to direct you to an installer who works for the same company as me.

the Jaycar stuff is good, personally i use the Stinger stuff. door trims off plastic sheeting off wipe down door with wax and grease remover apply deadener cut holes where you will need to pull stuff through (power winder looms, power mirror, door lock mech speaker holes) door trim back on.

thats cos neons break way to easily. i had 6 under my car and the glass tube shattered just from driving. LEDs are the key