Levi_

Sorry if it's a repeat topic, I did some searching and didn't come up with anything (forum search software blows). Now, I'm about to get a FMIC on my R33 S2 and I wanted to know, where is it ok to put my front number plate? I've seen a couple of cars with it off to the left hand side which is good for me because I'm wanting to do a simple air-intake where the side mount used to be. But what are the legalities involved with relocating the number plate? Eventually I'll get a slimline plate for the front to make things easier (plus I prefer it to be the the center -- looks more balanced), but until then where can it go?

Like I said, that amount of noise seems pretty normal for that camera (even on those settings). If you want less noise you're going to have to get a new camera (something with a larger sensor -- this usually means less noise).

Seems strange, that is definitely a bit too noisy for ISO 75. *has a look at the DNG* Alright, I've done a bit of research on you camera. The noise levels you're experiencing are pretty much normal for that sensor. It's small, and noise is a unfortunate result of that. I believe the S3 IS has noise reduction settings, try them out. A lot of the time though you'll find the noise reduction filters will kill image detail and quality. Software noise reduction options do a pretty good job and might be an option for you in your post processing workflow. DPReview has some good sample shots from your camera model: http://www.dpreview.com/gallery/Canon_s3IS_samples/ So, you can either live with the noise, fight the noise or buy a new camera.

Interested, but postage (Perth) will probably cost a fair bit, any ideas?

Sorry for being stupid but could anybody give a decent explanation to what a brake cylinder stopper is? So far all I know is that it makes the brakes 'feel' better?

Octane booster doesn't really do all that much, in addition to it being another bunch of crap to add to already average fuel. Octane boosted fuel will never be as good or as clean as true high octane fuel.

As long as your dad can get a good seal on it when he puts it back on, sound quality will be fine. Infact he'll probably be able to manage to stick it on better than it was originally.

I'll probably be down watching. I don't have the money or the tyres to put my car on the track.

400D is too small for big hands. Hunt down a second hand 20D/30D and you'll be much better off.

Very interested. Looks great!

Stop complaining, stop posting. Take your rims in, with your receipt and talk, calmly and slowly with the guy. All you need to do is show him the poor work around the centre of the rims and say that it's not up to scratch and ask politely for it to be redone properly. Looks like powder coating to be, just doesn't look very well done.

May be true, but it's not the same stuff. Both 98 Octane, but they're different fuels.

Should be coloured silicone radiator hoses on eBay for ~$100.

"Series 1 skyline" is the least descriptive description ever.

Check out ozvr4.com lots of info on there. My friend has just bought a Galant (on the boat to Aus now) and they're very cool cars. But yeah, it more depends on what he's looking for.

Not all mechanics have their facts right.

Just fitted one to my r33 last night, along with a de-cat pipe. The quality is pretty damn good and I managed to fit it with a friend without any major hassles (nothing but hand-tools) in about 3 hours. Haven't had a chance to take it for a good drive yet, but I assume it'll have my car running even more lean than before.

Had my R33 since August last year, and so far, I don't think I've had any cops follow me. I've had plenty look/stare but none following me (yet).

The simple fact is that dynos are a comparison tool, not a tool for measurement. You can use a dyno to compare two cars, or a single car that's being tuned. But on any given day a dyno can read very differently, in addition to being "tweaked". I'm sure any of the better known/more popular workshops around will have a dyno that's accurate enough for what your looking for.

I have a similar problem with mine, ended up going for some Castrol stuff, definitely did it some good, but it's still pretty rough. May have to try some redline next time and see if it actually makes a difference.

ahah, nice spot!

Will probably have to get it off another car. Try a wrecker.

I've used a 430EX, 580EX (Original) and Sigma 500. The Canon one is great, but not worth the extra spend. Whatever one you choose, it'll most likely be more than you'll need and cost a lot more than you realistically needed to spend. With general photo work the flash wont come in much use, unless you do a lot of portrait work. Spend as much as you think you need, as long as it flashes and is adjustable, it'll be better than the on-board flash by mile, and not because of the extra power or features, mostly comes down to the fact that you can bounce the light and soften the whole thing up.

The EF 500/530 is better than the 430EX in terms of features and power. The 430EX will probably have slightly better ETTL Auto Focus abilities, but this is very marginal. Having less 'auto' features would be more benificial while learning. However, the 530EX, 580EX, Sigma 500 and the 430EX will all give similar auto results. The power difference and other features are significant here. However take note, that the 430 only acts as a slave which can be limiting in the future, when a Sigma or 530/580EX will work as both and will be much more flexible for it. Not 100% sure on this one, I would assume it's simply a way of controling the flash settings without taking your hands off the camera, which will probably yeild marginally better auto results. Which flashes is that comparison applied to? 580 vs ?? That's because the 430 is much less powerful flash. if you turn the 530/580EX down to the same power levels, their performance will be very similar. They're all similarly easy to use in Auto. You just point and shoot. All have advanced manual settings which are hard to learn, but they all work in the same kind of way, just with different features and costs. Personally, I wouldn't consider the 430 at all. It's between the Sigma and the 580. It all comes down to money really. If it were me, I'd probably get a sigma again.

I believe you'll find the old 580EXII will work fine with the 40D too. You just wont have the full benefits of some of the more advanced autofocus things or something. Take note that there is a Sigma 530 and a 500. But hardly any difference so just get the cheaper one. Both are fine, the 530 is a little newer that's all. Just make sure you get the one called "DG Super" as the "ST" and/or "Super" are lower powered, lower featured versions. $459AUD - http://www.centre.net.au/index.html?cat=00...&it=product $370AUD - Ebay Item $345AUD - Ebay Item $259USD - http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/5153...uper_Flash.html (I'd recommend ordering from BH, great prices, fast shipping)