Levi_

Z200 should be fine too.

Restrictor is gone, it's all clear and open silicon hosing. And no, it deosn't because it's an in-cabin controller, not a boost-tee like I originally thought.

Had one of those, upgraded to the kit I have now as I wasn't entirely happy with that one.I guess I'll take my car for another drive this afternoon and see how I go with setting the boost. I must look strange pulling over every 30 seconds to open my bonnet.

I'm still having a hard time keeping boost level. I can get it to hit 9/10psi before 3000rpm which is great, but it still tends to peak up to ~11/12psi when the revs hit ~5000rpm. I don't really have the money for an electronic boost controller, but if that's what it will take to get a more reliable boost pressure then I'll have to look into it. Can anybody recommend a good, simple electronic boost controller?

Might be down there taking some photos. Depends how cold it is, plus it gets too dark at the moment so might have to give it a miss.

Ok I've got some progress! I realised I did have the controller hooked up incorrectly because I have a in-cabin controller and they need to be hooked up differently to the boost-T. I had the in-cabin controller hooked up like a boost T which meant that the air had nowhere to go and would just end up flowing to the wastegate. I've now hooked it up as shown in this image: But it was still overboosting. So I removed the T restrictor (there is a spring and ball bearing inside the T that helps control the air distribution between the wastegate and the controller). Once this was removed and the controller turned all the way down as closed as it would go. We achieved the lowest boost setting I've seen in months! The boost comes on fast and hits 8psi and then just locks itself there. I pulled over and turned the controller up by half a turn and I managed to get it to hit 10psi by 3000rpm! Unfortunately it seems to still climb up to ~13psi under heavy load in higher gears, so I've turned it back down to about so it's at about 1/2 turn from completely closed, so I'll give that a bit of a run on the way to work in the morning and see how I go. Looks like I'm going to need another tune. WHich is good, because I wasn't 100% satisfied with what I currently had. PS: Oh and yes, the standard solenoid is long gone, got rid of that within a few weeks of getting my car.

I had a basic manual one but replaced it with the tubotech item when I did my FMIC. Essentially I have the turbotech item turned all the way in (I think) which is 100% open (I know I have it 100%, just can't remember if the turbotech is all the way in or out, because my old one was the opposite). Which means at the moment it's no different to having my wastegate hooked up directly. Will turning the boost controller up to a certain point bring the boost up to ~10psi earlier without exceeding it? I'm a little worried about spikes, because I can't afford a new turbo, but if I can squeeze some more mid-range out of this one, I'd be really happy. I'll have a play with it tonight, but thanks for confirming my suspicions that the curve isn't right, I was sure the stock turbo should spool up much faster than it currently does.

Try this link: http://levibuzolic.com/files/Image013.jpg It's more the difference between ~4600 (8psi) to 5200 (10psi). If you see the graph it's climbing steadily and then all of a sudden it really starts to jump up and hits full boost, from then on the car pulls really hard, but before that it's all reasonably calm.

Ok, I had a quick search but I'm having a hard time finding much useful information, so sorry if this has been asked before, but if it has, feel like linking me to help me out? Ok, I've got a '96 R33 GTS25t Manual with the following mods; (i've only listed those relevant to the question) FMIC 600x300x76 Pod Filter Split Front/Dump Decat Pipe Full 3" Cat-back Manual Boost Controller S-AFC Neo Piggyback ECU Stock turbo. So, what I understand is because of my mods, I've pushed my minimum boost pressure up, previously with the boost controller wide open (or having my bleed connected directly to the wastegate) I was hitting about ~8psi of boost (my turbo timer has a digital boost gauge). Now the lowest peak boost I can get is about 10psi (with the occasional spike to 11/12ish). Now I'm alright with this, but after getting my car tuned I noticed my boost curve is pretty crap, I'm not worried about it trailing off as much as full boost not hitting until ~5200rpm. I've posted my dyno graph with boost shown (the current boost is the line that is lower at 6500rpm) but incase you can't read it here's the breakdown: 3000rpm - 6.5psi 4000rpm - 7.5psi 4500rpm - 8psi 5000rpm - 9.5psi (suddenly ramps up here) 5250rpm - 10psi 5500rpm - 10psi 6000rpm - 9psi (sits about there maybe a little lower until redline) Now I'm not sure, but I thought the boost shourl really ramp up earlier than that. The problem is that it's quite noticable, once my car hits ~5000rpm the whole car roars up and pulls like crazy, but it'd be nice to have a bit more of that down lower. So, essentially what I'm asking is; 1) Should the boost be higher at a lower rpm? 2) If so, should I look at a electronic boost controller or is it caused by my wastegate or soemthing else all together?

I've run 0W45 and 10W50 in my R33, both went well. As said above, it's a matter of temperatures. You say your temperature range is about 100°F down to 20°F. Which is like 37°C - -7°C. Compared to most parts of Australia, that's pretty cool. Here in Perth, Western Australia we're looking at a range of 45°C - 0°C which works out to be like 113-32°F. But in approximate terms, the temperatures are pretty close. So as suggested above, go with something that has a light cold weight (small first number). 0W40 or 10W50 should be fine (or anything pretty close to that). Turbo cars can be a little fussy when it comes to engine oil, so it's best to spend a little extra and get it right the first time. WHile the 20W50 you have there may work, why not just spend the little bit extra and get the right stuff? For the oil filter, I go with a Ryco Z145A and then fuel filter was Ryco Z200. I'm sure you'll ahve similar parts available at your local auto-store.

I'm not 100% sure but that doesn't sound right. I thought it was 4-speed autos only for the R33.

Will most gearbox places be able to do this? I'm interested in doing it, but I have a feeling it's going to be a bastard of a job. Most car work which should be a 1 hour job seems to become a 5 hour bleeding knuckle fun-time for me.

I easily beat those km's in my R33 GTSt with some occasional heavy footedness. What (if any) mods are you running?

I ahve 245's on my 9" rears, they're a little stretched, but I imagine 235's would fit ok, but I suppose that depends on the wall height and size.

Joining in, the above is correct. You need a lock bar, but good thing is; they're cheap, they save weight and they actually work!

I had a tiny assed black filter on my R33 GTSt when I first bought it, quickly replaced it with a Ryco Z145A Good luck on getting the dammed thing off. Mine is easy to get to, but I'm still considering getting it relocated just for simplicity.

Other plus side is more fresh paint for your at least 10 year old car.

Exhaust cement in my eyes while doing my front/dump pipe. That sucked.

Awesome to see you still around, my friend will be in contact with you shortly about getting a custom catback done on his Galant. Can't wait to hear and see the results!

No hand controller, only though USB/Laptop. Not bad though, you could pick up an ASUS eee PC for $250 second hand and have that as a dedicated hand controller.

Where was the dyno done for yours, I'd be suspecting that your numbers are a fraction high.

Ahh haven't seen them, I'll take note to avoid... my car bottoms out on everything.

Does sound a little low, though Hyperdrive do seem to have a reasonably accurate dyno (as in it tends to be lower than some) but that wouldn't be that much of a factor. My manual R33 GTS25t managed 190rwkw with similar mods (though my boost curve isn't great). Post up your dyno sheets and maybe we can figure it out.

My water pump on my R33 was leaking just a few weeks ago, had Tenegah fix it, but it cost me a bunch of money that I was hoping to spend elsewhere.

The factory gauge isn't in PSI. It's in g/cm2 or something. Essentially 7 on that gauge is about 14psi if I remember correctly. Oh and what work ahve you done to your car? Chances are if you have a large intercooler and the turbo-back exhaust done you'll be running 10psi and you wont be able to lower it any more than that.