luke gtr

sorry mate, didnt see that due to the whole, sau resetting unread posts, thing. im sure itll turn out great. some charge more, some less, all that matters is the final outcome, and that youre happy with it. im sure you will be. im not, as i still havnt had the funds to finish mine.

also called a windage tray. thought about 2-3months after it was in the car, should have adapted the 26 windage trays to suit the 30..... bah, next time...

why do you want to put a standard 25 in place of the neo? if its the turbo, see in the naturally aspirated thread for turbo conversion guide to NA...

so long as you get the same number of ports. i believe the only difference is the piston size.

possibly, you will have to measure the outer diameter of the shaft, and bearing cone/end. give them a call with these measurements, not point in going if they dont have one. also, being sunday, alot of the more knowledgable staff will be off. the focus more on retail on sudays.

could be pads sticking on the slides? have had similar recently.

slotted rotors also chamfer the brake pad constantly, giving a nice fresh surface. the slots, stop the build up of gases and such between the contact areas. there isnt really a benefit to running them on the street unless you do a lot of mountain/twisty rd driving where you use the brakes alot. as mentioned, better pads will make a decent difference. fresh fluid will also help delay boiling. ss lines stop flex. all very little differences that add to a whole.

should take a loooong time to wear out. unless used for drift. projuct mu do upgraded shoes specifically for this reason. look for those. pricy, but would be excellent quality.

really? mine were spot on. not out in the slightest. go figure....

good to hbear. the clutch you purchased has a spung centre, this makes life better as it takes the "harshness" out a little. you can get a NON sprung centre, they are alot more on/off style clutch.

those are the cv shafts. with the hanbrake on, you should get very little movement from them.

sounds like master or slave problems. fluid bypassing the internal seals. start with the cheaper one. most auto suppliers(not supercheap in my experience) should be able to get the slave. or try brake and clutch suppliers, might be able to supply both.

could be the cv starting to bind. without seeing vid of the problem, this will be hard to determin over the net.

i think we know why they closed down.... sorry to hear mani. hope you get it sorted.

sp also offer life time warranty. kinchrome can be difficult to get warranty out of. repco also offer lifetime warranty, and they have a lot of stores. ive had 1 item from repco break, they handed me a new one. have had 2sp items break. 3 weeks later, i got replacement pieces. also, is it leaving a puddle of oil, or is it just what is on the exhaust? if you have recently had the clutch done, that could be oil from the gearbox when the tailshft was removed and the box pulled out of the car. clean it down with degreaser first. see if it comes back. could just be a lazy mechanic who doesnt clean their jobs. hope this helps. keep us updated. also, there are a lot of DIY write ups in the diy section. search, im sure someone would have written this one up. read it a couple of times, and go in prepared.

repco and other aftermarket parts resellers can also supply cv boots. some may require measurements from the shaft due to imports and such. or, genuine(ie; nissan)

good to hear.

when you say, "upgraded gearbox", new, rebuilt, second hand, brand, details? also, standard case? clutch may not be suitable for the box. sounds like could be internal in the box. could also be clutch for rubbing on pressure plate. single plate clutch? did you replace the spigot bearing?

as above, if you are moving at constant speeds of say 60+, the natural airflow is better than the fan can provide. if in doubt, tow it. it will be cheaper in the long run.

ot, check the gear in the gearbox to make sure nothing has gone wrong there. if not, next will be cable or wiring/sensor9depending on drive type). last, the speedo itself.

right foot control.

plumb it back into the intake somewhere. its after intake temps, not engine bay temps.

the marks are spot on. if they are out, i would be saying youre a tooth out somewhere. get your mechanic to check it if youre not 100%

the reason for redline recommending the SUPERLIGHT, will be it will be thinner and closer in specs to auto fluid normally used in the getrags. the lightweight will be thicker, and not so suitable. there is a massive following of redline. i personally have never heard negative comments on their items. currently have lightweight in my hks dog box, but havnt finished the build yet, so have not tested it out. redline was recommended by the gearbox rebuilder, which i have complete faith in. so long as you follow their(redlines) guide for your car, you should have no worries.

when i purchased my gtr, the owners brother(owner wasnt there, everything was legit, so all good), handed my os giken twin plate(needed rebuild). looked underneth, had tien coilovers. trust 4inch cooler. tuned y pipe, 3inch cat and cat back. those were the parts i didnt know of.