luke gtr

glad you got the whip noise, wasnt sure if i spelt it right

price update $15,500ono

come take it for a test. dont come back. reported stolen. insurance payout. win! thanks for the kind words, can take for a test ride if seriously interested.

wwwwwttssshhhhhh lol hopefully see you there

IN!

Just because I can't drive.... ....means that I DO need all the help I can get.

I don't know how you can just park yiur cars without driving them.... Mine was off the road for 2 months whilst I done the engine, and it was killing me. Seriously! Wtf???? Drive the car, even if its just once a fortnight. You'll love it, the car will love it, everybody's happy. /rant.

i get emails regarding pm's, but not topic updates, havnt for approx 6 months. still waiting..... hopefully they get it fixed.

still here.

Sms sent.

Then track it bitch....

Still interested if willing to ship(dependant of shipping costs)

stage 2 mods?? wait till you get to stage 57...... thats when the fun begins.

If you see the pics, that's what i done, as well as repositioning them. The washer would have to be approximately 5-8mm thick, and the factory banjo bolts arnt long enough to allow this. Space it out too far, and it will also foul the counter weights on the crank.

Ok, keep in mind the following are only MY thoughts and opinions, and this is the first motor I have rebuilt.... In regards to the balance of the piston,,,, If you were to take material from one side and not the other, this would cause an off balance, and would make the piston want to "tilt", under the stress of high rpm, causing the difference in weight to multiply, I would think the piston would want to tilt more and more, like a see-saw out of balance. This would in turn, cause higher wear rate on the edges that the piston wants to tip to. In regards to the oil angle and hit zone,,,,, No, it does not alter the angle the oil will hit at, as all the mounting surfaces are parallel, and the squirter is not bent. The hit zone is a different story. As the squiter has been twisted, it will now hit a different part of the piston, but keep in mind, they are different pistons being used. The oil still hits the bottom of the piston, as intended, just in a slightly different place. Hope this helps. Again, my views and opinions, others may vary. I appreciate the feedback and interest though guys.

ive done some k's, and have written my findings. if you havnt already, please read this

+3 results!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I can't stop thinking about texi.... Arrggghhhhhhhh

You CAN etch primer the cooler, but also run the risk of build up in the fins. I grabbed a can of mat black, sprayed the ends, and just enough to cover the core. Been like that for over a year, still alright. I didn't bother with primer, and when it gets bad enough, ill just spray it again. With all the stuff thrown at it off the road, I don't think the primer would make a huge difference. If you're near west Sydney, come by and check it out.

Looks orange with a black bonnet to me..... LOL. But seriously, if they're any good at what they do, they should be able to match it. You didn't get a small touch up tin when you bought the car?

Is it 3.5 tip, or main piping? Also, would you consider freight to Sydney?

Battle scars....

Form faxed. Check. Money transferred. Check. Just installed fire extinguisher.... Check. Just need to do the wiring so I can take my sub out, and I'm ready.

The riff brah.... Penrith, ftw

To me, thanks mark.