luke gtr

Ok, keep in mind the following are only MY thoughts and opinions, and this is the first motor I have rebuilt.... In regards to the balance of the piston,,,, If you were to take material from one side and not the other, this would cause an off balance, and would make the piston want to "tilt", under the stress of high rpm, causing the difference in weight to multiply, I would think the piston would want to tilt more and more, like a see-saw out of balance. This would in turn, cause higher wear rate on the edges that the piston wants to tip to. In regards to the oil angle and hit zone,,,,, No, it does not alter the angle the oil will hit at, as all the mounting surfaces are parallel, and the squirter is not bent. The hit zone is a different story. As the squiter has been twisted, it will now hit a different part of the piston, but keep in mind, they are different pistons being used. The oil still hits the bottom of the piston, as intended, just in a slightly different place. Hope this helps. Again, my views and opinions, others may vary. I appreciate the feedback and interest though guys.

ive done some k's, and have written my findings. if you havnt already, please read this

+3 results!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I can't stop thinking about texi.... Arrggghhhhhhhh

You CAN etch primer the cooler, but also run the risk of build up in the fins. I grabbed a can of mat black, sprayed the ends, and just enough to cover the core. Been like that for over a year, still alright. I didn't bother with primer, and when it gets bad enough, ill just spray it again. With all the stuff thrown at it off the road, I don't think the primer would make a huge difference. If you're near west Sydney, come by and check it out.

Looks orange with a black bonnet to me..... LOL. But seriously, if they're any good at what they do, they should be able to match it. You didn't get a small touch up tin when you bought the car?

Is it 3.5 tip, or main piping? Also, would you consider freight to Sydney?

Battle scars....

Form faxed. Check. Money transferred. Check. Just installed fire extinguisher.... Check. Just need to do the wiring so I can take my sub out, and I'm ready.

The riff brah.... Penrith, ftw

To me, thanks mark.

You can drive spiritedly within the speed limit. You just keep the speed limit whilst going around corners....

Hey mate, can you pm me some more pics? Cheers, Luke.

I'm guessing loss of oil pressure. And i was building in my garage, don't really have the equipment needed to notch a piston. Don't really know, but some may, would notching the piston weaken it? Thinking about it, I think it would. But thanks door the comment. I appreciate feedback, and other ideas.

just sent through payments for myself, and my mate. luke gtr mr clubby see you guys on the day ps, on a side note, what happend to the skids emoticon? i had to use bananaman

^^^cheers

Can't do fridays. Will keep an eye out for a Saturday one.... Have fun guys.

Make your way out to the west, and you can grab a ride with me and the missus. Hope you don't mind the back seat.

I've seen manual controllers, that look similar to a handbrake mechanism, just set and forget. Stays at the same torque split until you adjust it. Try tracking one of these down. Pretty sure the drag boys use them. Don't know how common they really are though. Probably the best bet for what your describing. Good luck.

Yep, I've heard it from a couple of people. Mahles the only company that's like it. And part numbers match up with numerous web sites.

Ok, I've been waiting for my engine to rack up 1000ks to make sure nothing goes bang. I bought parts through a friend of a friend, and he supplied mahle forged pistons. He also neglected to inform me that they foul the oil squirters. So, after the first piston was in, went to turn the crank over, and it got real hard. From here, I checked to see what was happening.... What i found was the piston fouling the squirter. So? What do i so now? Answer: mod the squirters to fit. I have attached(hopefully) pics of the modded squirters, with pics of installed so you can see where they foul, and how little room you will have. Ok, first things first: You will have to grind the locator flat. I used a bench grinder. CAUTION: being a small amour of alloy, it gets very hot, very quick. Second: Grind the back edge of the squirter at an angle. Third: As you can see her, I have used a copper washer. The piston comes down to the point where it nearly contacts. My thoughts were, I don't want to risk inertia just bringing them into actual contact. Better safe than sorry. Fourth: As you can see here, positioning of the squirter is critical! Too far one way, it will hit the under piston bracing. Too far the other, it will foul the rod. You can see where the locator would have gone. To torque without the squirters moving, I used a pair of long nosed pliers in the locating hole. And done them up to the highest point of factory torque specs. I can't remember, but I think I also used a drop of loctite. So, there you have it. As stated, have been running my engine for 1000kms now, without incident(touch wood). I've also had my engine spinning at/near redline. Any questions, pm me. Hope this helps others, as I couldn't find much on it other than people saying, "yeah, I've heard they foul." Cheers, happy modding....

Hmmm making me think.... Either way, I used motul 4100 turbolight to run in, 1000ks, then oil and filter change. Seems to be going ok so far....

Had a grey 34gtt at work today. Fixing up his alignment.

I'll see what I can swing. I said A Saturday night, and forgot I'm helping a mate do an engine in a lancer this sat arvo. Don't worry, ill be trying. Might even tell him I have to leave early. Really want to come to this.

I've got the new club spec slot 4000series on my 32gtr. Got the whole set for 600(4 rotors). Keep looking, they are on the website. From memory, not with the rest, have to go down the list a bit.