luke gtr

if im not mistaken, its a saleen, is it not? hooootness....

now i want one maybe the next build. im already schemeing ways of doing the flap internal to the manifold rather than the turbo housing. and trying to make it so the gasses dont load it up too much to open with an actuator. hmmm, time to start drawing.

the only way i can think of the water contributing, is if , by pure chance, water got into that cylinder, hydraulic locked it slightly, bent the electrode to touch, and it melted from there. would be a 1 in a 1,000,000,000,000,000,000 type of thing. owuld be checking advice above, and progress from there. good luck.

I was thinking the longer arm with actuator repositioning, or an electric actuator of some specification. That's all I can think of this close to bed time.

Very interesting stuff. I like the idea very much, but think you would need a pretty strong actuator to open the flap with the pressure/flow from the exhaust on it. Maybe lengthen the actuator rod for better leverage? Will be paying close attention to all the follow ups. Thanks to those trying for the insight, for future modders...

If you start to apply a train of thought into how most things are made, it all seems cheap. Think about fuel, mining oil out in the ocean, rig workers wages, the cost of the rig itself, then transport, refinery, further transport, distribution, and then into tanks waiting to be pumped, all with more employees at each stage, all with building, electricity and water costs, plus any additives they put in, all for $1.50/l It boggles the mind sometimes.

From the universal mount flange(gearbox) to the cv mount flange(diff) is around 1050mm. In the pic, it appears to have an alloy spacer at the uni end, did you include that in the measurement? If so, what does it measure without? And is that with the cv end compressed? Just want all the facts first. Cheers.

Would be interested if it suits 32gtr, will measure it up tomorrow at work.

all fixed, turns out my reverse switch and attesa wiring had wrapped around my front tail shaft and pulled it apart. soldered back together, and all good.

For the hydraulic lines, justjap sell a bypass pipe. Goes between the 2 bolts near the rack. Easy to install, do it at the same time as the lock bar.

If you have aftermarket stereo system, some amps still drain power when the radio is off. Had an entry level fusion amp that done this. Kept killing the battery, replaces the amp, now all good.

Damn, had this problem in my gtr today. Dash went, and windows won't wind. Car still runs. Found a blown fuse. Replaced and keeps blowing. Thought you might offer some insight. Congratulations on your fix. Can anyone help with mine? Extra symptom, when you replace the fuse, the torque split gauge goes straight up and over max.

Hoooot, wish I had a 33 for this.....

It might, but i don't think it would pass adr's to allow rego, then being on the road, then getting defected....

I'm wondering how a returnless system would work. Hmmmm. Something to try one day. Just use both stock lines as feed. Anyone tried anything similar?

Keep driving it until you spin a bearing... I was running low comp Cyl 1 150psi Cyl 2 150psi Cyl 3 150psi Cyl 4 100psi * Cyl 5 50psi * Cyl 6 150psi Had these figures for 4 years Making 280rwkw for 2 years of that. Only doing a rebuild now because of spun bearing. Might miss a little at idle, but you should be ok. Start saving for another engine or rebuild, and so it when you can. Good luck.

I'm going to be different and say its something obscure like a rubber bonnet stop that needs lubing. Just to be different

$1?

As already stated, no point wasting money for mods that you won't see a return on at sale time. Save for the gtr. And to the above, I have a twin plate in my 32, feels lighter than an exedy heavy duty.... A bit grabby if you're not used to it, but great when you are.

Neons are old school, kind of like carbys. If you want hi tech, get less, they're the edit of the undercar lighting world....

I've heard of the road side epa, but I think it was only a trial. And I'm pretty sure mainly aimed at trucks. As for my opinion, not the biggest fan of screamers, give me a nice quiet exhaust any day. I prefer the sound of the turbos on spool.....

Cheers, thats the kind of info I was after. Will help heaps.

That's what I was wondering.... How crap are they? What boost and/or power level are the standard cams and valve springs good for?

Quick question, how good are the standard valve springs? Little parrallel to topic, and I'm looking to make some decent power soon, which will entail more boost. If anyone can help, cheers.

Why do you want to get rid of the sexist wheel ever produced? Love my lmgt4's....