89CAL

Thanks for your help, i think i have what i need out of Shoota's thread as they are some good quality photos legends 👍

Bumping this old thread rather than creating a new one. Not sure if it was in here or somewhere else but there used to be a useful thread with some photos of the gearbox internals that I can't find anymore (I see this has some photos that arent hosted anymore so are not found) Does anyone have some decent photos of the internals of an R33 gearbox? I have mine apart at the moment and just want to confirm the orientation of 5th gear synchro as they have a little tab of metal one way and not sure if this acts on something or is just their for strength etc. Thanks

Hi All, Potentially chasing an R33 Evaporator Core or whole assembly. Threads for the TX Valve were pretty average so just putting some feelers out in case I need to replace it Thanks

Worth a shot, but not saying this will be it I had issues with my CAS a long time ago after i disturbed it when I did my timing belt. Spent a long time taking top timing cover off and running, and putting it back on and running Noise went away with it off and CAS mounted, came back when cover was back on with CAS Mounted From memory the spacers were not installed in the gasket or something fun along those lines. Eventually ended up replacing the CAS to as it had a horrible bearing noise It was already suggested above but it would be worthwhile taking the top timing cover off and see if noise goes away

Take to Engine Shop Rebuilding an engine is not for someone who 'barely knows what they are doing'

The First one looks like an aftermarket Knock sensor, might explain why its cut? Almost certain it is this: https://dealers.linkecu.com/KNS_2 The other two plugs not too sure. are they just a single flat female (as if they would slide over a male spade terminal?) One has standard looking conduit over it suggesting that this was an aftermarket addition as well maybe? There are some temp sensors that are just a single wire and earth through the base of the sensor so it may have been for oil and coolant temp sensors?

Hey all Bumping this one up Is there any local alternative to this? I have found what must be similar to the listing in first post (see below link) Just not 100% sold on this yet, but would rather take my chances and blow $300ish on this than pay the ridiculous prices for a genuine one. Have searched as much as I can, haven't come up with much https://www.aliexpress.com/item/33053210701.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.0.0.267cf764LRx3hF&algo_pvid=f38c89fb-0177-49e6-92c0-044673bd2233&algo_exp_id=f38c89fb-0177-49e6-92c0-044673bd2233-1&pdp_ext_f={"sku_id"%3A"67446442179"} These are the numbers that look like suit an R33 GTST Series 1: Zexel/Valeo number: 506221-1102 DKV-14D Nissan Number: 92600-15U01 Will go through NAPA and so on to see what I can find but not expecting much from them

Ive had this problem as well but only happens when driving in the rain

+1 to above I did something funny with one of the rubber boots or shifter once and it kept popping out of gear. Had a muck around with the boots etc and came good Simple test would be to remove the boots and take for a drive to see how it goes From memory I may have had the shifter in the wrong way round? Dont really remember though but it was not a hard fix just something silly I had done

This

Nah. Ended up selling and went to a Link G4. Best decision ever

PCV = Positive Crankcase Ventilation

O.K Not sure why but I am going to try and help further more Think of the way ECU's work. Inputs tell it what is happening, ECU makes calculations and controls outputs to change the running conditions of the engine Inputs talk to the ECU Outputs are direction from the ECU The CAS is an Input, so tells the ECU what is happening When you set the base timing to 15 degrees, that is setting the BASEline for the timing, its point of reference. ECU shows input of 15 degrees ECU fires coil packs at 15 degrees BTDC using the data obtained from the CAS. The coil packs are an output As per above, unplugging the TPS on stock ECU is the best way to lock the timing, it is obvious when the ECU is altering the timing as you can see the timing jump around (a couple of degrees only) If you are getting roughly double the expected value, I believe this is due to setting the timing light using the wire loop and not the plug lead method Now think about this. Assuming your ECU is locked at 15 degrees output and is outputting signal to fire at 15 degrees, what should the input (reference) be? A bit like your knock sensor discussion, I feel like you are overthinking it.

* Waits for "I know this* Response then reply asking about why there is voltage there * I am not sure how this is taking so long to understand, especially with some smart people giving some smart answers. I feel like you have backed yourself into a corner and now just want to attack everyone saying your wrong rather then admitting that you made a mistake and you now have been given some knowledge. If you really want to get some information out of the knock sensors, something like the below may help: Ebay Oscilloscope

I used small cans of metallic grey ford touch up paint on mine years ago. Was fine. Only reason I have changed since is have gone to dipped carbon fibre

Loosen nut so even with top of threads, grab a large punch and hammer, have someone sit in the car pulling steering wheel while another person gives the shaft a tap (shouldnt need to hit too hard), off comes wheel

I could go get a set of verniers and a thread pitch gauge and measure it, or I could ask on a forum where I may get the wrong information........ Seriously, any bolt shop even could have given you your answer in about 5mins. Why come on here and complain when you don't get an answer to a general question And as above, the balls in the stock heat exchanger are to bypass the filter when it creates too much back pressure (i.e. when the filter is clogged), this may also be the case when the oil is cold and thicker My stock heat exchanger is removed, yet I still have good oil pressure. Is it possible that the volume from the pump + the restriction created by the porting in the block + the bearing/rotating surfaces might possibly cause the restriction to increase the pressure? Not real sure. After all I am only a stupid SAU user. Not like I have a job that has taught me alot about flow, pressure and restriction

The fuel pump control module has likely failed. When the car drops back to idle it is supposed to drop the speed of the fuel pump to prevent excessivly circulating fuel. Sounds like the low side is playing up Direct wire your fuel pump through a relay as suggested

NPC do a twin plate that is supposed to be good. A friend had one in his R33 and raved about it i have an NPC single and wouldnt run any other single plate. No dramas and good support

Have you adjusted the idle screw? Maybe it needs to be wound in a bit. Stock ECU?

This is 6 pages of posts for what could be 2 posts of answer As already said, remove the stock boost solenoid. Its not useful anymore. Get rid of it Boost feed line from post (after) turbo to boost controller to turbo wastegate.all other lines that were connected to factory boost tee blocked off. Remove any tees that go nowhere. Block the lines that are open to atmosphere in the pipework Google how a wastegate works and it will make alot more sense i think. Im a bit worried that you are still feeding a vacumm to the boost controller. You did remember to wind the boost tee back out and wind it in slowly to set boost?

It doesnt sound like its charging properly at all. Remove the negative cable off the battery and the chassis. Clean the terminals, cable lugs and chassis point to remove any paint/dirt/corrosion etc. Check the cables on your alternator. Clean the terminals and lugs as well, check for tightness and contact. Also with your meter you can do some continuity checks to make sure that there is low resistance from the Alternator to ground and engine block to chassis ground. There is definetly a charging issue here though.

Ypu need to check some voltages with the car running I would say. Sounds like battery is dropping voltage Have you checked your earth straps? The voltage drop will be affecting your injectors which is why you are seeing leaner AFR's. Ive seen the same thing with supply voltage issues to my ECU (ECU was seeing lower voltage then was actually being produced) Check (with a multimeter) the battery voltage at the battery and at the front relay box in the engine bay with the car running and report back

I drove my Link over 30km to my tuner when I built my engine without really touching anything (bar setting up all the sensors etc) Was horribly rich, but made it there fine just cruising along.

Pay someone to do it Im sorry, but if you need a tutorial to rebuild your engine, you may not be ready for the work involved