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89CAL

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Everything posted by 89CAL

  1. 89CAL
    It's a bit hard for someone to give you an answer if you don't tell them what you already have. I'm fairly certain its better than an old tape player out of a Kingswood, But probably not as good as a brand new high end Alpine unit etc. As for the Amp, if you don't have one, use it. Ive found most Kenwood stuff I've had is more than fine, assuming you just want it to play some music while driving around town etc.
  2. 89CAL
    Also dont forget heater hoses (flush the heater core) generally flushing the normal way works fine but I like to flush everything 82 is more than fine on cruise. 76 degrees is when the std thermo starts to open remember so your never going to keep it at 76. Mine used to do about 80-82 on a cold night from memory so id say your doing alright
  3. 89CAL
    Just buy some seal with adhesive backing. But it really isnt that important. Ive spaced my cover up to try and let some air in/out because I've had some coilpack dramas in the past
  4. 89CAL
    Thermostats are not that expensive....... Sell Nismo one
  5. 89CAL
    It works better with the shroud then without. Without it the fan does not utilize the whole radiator
  6. 89CAL
    But at what cost But at what cost But seriously. If its been running around with the boost feed to the fuel pressure regulator off, and been misfiring under boost, I'd be awful scared of how lean its been running at high load + boost
  7. 89CAL
    They look like a custom job
  8. 89CAL
    Yes just disconnect the actuators and block the lines that were going to them. Also be careful not to overboost
  9. 89CAL
    Oh dear
  10. 89CAL
    If you want to live on the edge...... disconnect the actuators and CAREFULLY drive the car to see if it will get over 10psi. If it does then there is an issue with the boost control side
  11. 89CAL
    No... Your issue is air flow It is quite likely it is the fan hub, but it is important not to just focus on that. I would still pull the radiator out, seen as it only has water in it. Get a pressure washer and clean through the fins. It is unlikely this is the issue but important to make sure air can get through the radiator easily Do you have the fan shroud installed? Can you post a photo of the fan/radiator/shroud if possible? Might be something simply you are missing (happens to all of us) If you are going to get a new fan hub either go genuine Nissan or Dayco. Both seem to work fine
  12. 89CAL
    Nissan Variable Cam System I believe. No idea why Tomei call it this though
  13. 89CAL
    Perhaps you should have mentioned that........ Look up kudos motorsport. They will sell genuine ones and have the part number with the part. Also..... by 30k do you mean 30km or 30,000km? I would still go over all i have suggested and more. Doesnt take too long. Definetly put some good coolant in when done flushing though
  14. 89CAL
    I have had a fan clutch start to fail the other way. Car got hot when stopped. So it can happen Is your shroud O.K? Is there any gaps where air could recirculate around the radiator? If the car is hot and you rev it, can you hear the fan really working? Also, less likely, is your radiator cap sealing correctly? As above, I would pull the radiator out, give it a good clean and straighten any bent fins then re-install. Put new coolant in and bleed properly If this is a street car, I would strongly suggest you by a standard thermostat rather than a Nismo one
  15. 89CAL
    Must have lost my reply when they had server dramas It is your HICAS ECU. I had the same issue. Power steering would work fine first thing then next time I started the car (when it had sat for half an hour or an hour or so) power steering heavy Changed the HICAS ECU and never had a drama since. Quite possible that it is just a resistor/diode/capacitor etc that is faulty in the unit but a second hand one only cost me $50 from memory so just went with that
  16. 89CAL
    Hmmmm
  17. 89CAL
    Don't get me wrong, a Power FC will make your car quicker, but one day you might want to run E85 or maybe a MAP sensor and you wont be able to Depends what your future goals are really
  18. 89CAL
    Ask/pick a tuner and ask what they tune. I'd recommend Link if money is no object and you have a tuner that is capable of tuning it Nistune is fine. Link can be pretty much plug and play if that sounds easier Power FC is fine if its just a street car and you understand they are a bit dated. They are truly plug and play but not alot of features when compared to most others out there
  19. 89CAL
    Wooooooooow Thread dig
  20. 89CAL
    Most people (myself included) dont worry about it and just use a coke bottle cut in half to fill the radiator and create a high point that way. If you do it on a slight incline, the radiator top tank is the highest point anyway. I have a funnel from supercheap that works well. Its a black one with a removable tube part, once the tube is removed it fits perfectly in my greddy radiator. If you were going to do something, I would probably just use the original points that go to the air bleeder and hook them up to a sealed tank with a bleed screw. Or is the factory bleed screw removable from the manifold? Just remote mount it Like I said though, most dont bother. Has never been an issue for me
  21. 89CAL
    Soloution: Get a Link
  22. 89CAL
    I think it definetly couldnt hurt. I had a HKS GT2835KAI on my old engine and boost held perfect even though it used the nissan 6 bolt flange instead of the HKS flange which I believe flows a little better
  23. 89CAL
    It may be your issue if you modified it. Do you have access to a compressor, pressure reg and some airline so you can actuate it with air to test how well it moves? Might be able to pick up a "notchy"section of movement or perhaps it gets stuck somewhere etc Worth a shot
  24. 89CAL
    More detail?
  25. 89CAL
    I would say he is talking about thicker gauge wire yes
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