89CAL

Its put in from factory to lift the car up so unless you have 600 subwoofers in your car or a dodgy scissor jack, I don't know why it would struggle to lift it. Mine still works fine despite the fact that its nearly lifting the whole front/rear of the car by the time it gets one wheel off the ground You are using it in the factory jacking location (on the side rails in the correct spot)?

Use the factory scissor jack to get it up far enough then use a normal jack

Did you look at what i was talking about? Im no expert on 25's but to me it seems you have 2 halves of the engine to look at and an airflow meter and o2 sensor for each half of the engine. They look out of whack to me. Do you have a dodgy injector? Has it been tuned?

Internal or external gate? Pretty sure there is diagrams on the turbosmart website, in the manual for your boost controller (or any for that matter)

Your 02 sensor voltages are different as are your AFM voltages (AF-1, AF-2) Might be worth checking out why that is happening (assuming photos are taken with car running)

I don't remember if it brings up the check engine light on sensor faults. I think so?

I dont recall a setting to turn off the AC on fc edit. There are settings for idle when AC is on or off but that's about all i remember. Go into sensor/sw check on your hand controller and watch the AC and ACR dots. I think (and I could be wrong) that one indicates the AC unit is turned on and the other should come on when the compressor kicks in. (On is black dot off is white dot)

It should be looking for a voltage (usually between 0.5v and 4.5v) and anything outside that is a sensor fault (short circuit would be 5v and open circuit would be 0v) Fairly sure this will show up in sensor/sw check but may also give a fixed, incorrect value as well as suggested

Surely theres a nicer or more discreet switch you could use

So I have decided after finding out the Viper Alarms are not Aus standard (with all black wires) that the easiest thing to do is just replace the unit. I really don't want to outlay the money to install a new style of alarm. Probably silly of me, but the Mongoose does what is needed (apart from the dodgy remote reception/fault with the current unit) The main reason I am posting this is to ask if there are any difference in the plug for the old model and the new model M60? I have fried my alarm before and just replaced the circuit board without issue. I see there is one wire different between the new one and the old one (going off the Mongoose manauls on the website) but swapping one wire around is easy. Long shot but basically want to know if the plug on the board is the same?

Can you please take a breath and think before mashing words into a post. Its quite hard to understand what you are saying Also, if we are going to diagnose it, unseen, over the internet, we are going to need a lot more than -'it randomly cuts out, i changed the fuel pump and have changed it back could it be coils?' When does it cut out? (Boost, rpm, load etc) what other mods are done to the car? What spark plugs is it running? (And what gap?) Noone here will ever complain that you have been TOO detailed describing the fault

I would say if you are blowing gaskets, you arent going to fix it by removing the gaskets

What?

Disconnect coilpacks one at a timr with engine idling. Do the same with injectors. If something is failing the idle should stay the same when a single cylinder is unplugged (either injector or coilpack) Try that for a start

Thickness wont matter at all. Its the sealing quality of the surface that will make the difference. Pull it off and have a look at the witness marks left behind to see if that shows anything

Better off buying a pneumatic buff gun/gasket sander or a die grinder and wire wheel to do it. Can be far more delicate with both. I used my buff gun to remove casting marks off cam covers and then wire wheel all the crap off then give it a hand sand to prep. Don't even remember what i used on my brakes. Probably a scouring pad and some sandpaper. They are still fine 5 years (or more) later

Poor photo but you can see the plug on the RB25 block in this photo: I believe its 1/9bspt? But not sure if it is bspt or npt

It would have been trying to pump backwards if hooked up wrong.

Theres a plug on the 25 blocks near the filter/heat exchanger. Does the rb26/N1 block not have the same?

I run 10tenths 10w40 in my forged RB25. Been a good oil so far.

Gap plugs down to 0.8 and try again. Costs nothing and may give you an idea if it might be the coil packs

It is for cold start

Disconnect the IAC solenoid from memory to set the base idle.

As above, the flap should move freely, if it doesnt Id be starting there

Have you checked the rod and flap? Remove the rod from the arm that controls the flap and see if the flap moves freely. Check that there is some pre-load on the actuator. If the flap moves fine then no harm in replacing the actuator