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Its better to run an actuator with a lower spring pressure then your target boost and get their with a boost controller, it means the boost comes on a little stronger

The shop said to get the expensive ones, who'd have thought it...... For future anyway, the advantages of Platinum are the longer service intervals (I think they claim 100,000km on the plugs) which makes them sound good. This is all well and good on a mazda 3, not so much on a modified Skyline. I perfer to change plugs more often so its cheaper just to get $2 copper plugs and change them more often

Turn indicators on and feel for the one clicking on and off. Thats how i found mine All my lights (except headlights) are LED. Just bought a non load dependant flasher and wired it in for the indicators. Works a treat

Why on earth did you buy platinum plugs for it

Noone? Interested to see if other R33's don't have this fuse. Thinking about wiring a relay in so that it will work when ignition power is on. Seems like its pretty important. According to the diagram it looks like the main feed in

Yes. Pull all the coilpacks and you will see them. I had to pull the front 3 off mine today and I dont think it will be your issue but its free to check

Bit of a thread dig but I came across this yesterday when I was trying to find something draining the battery. Ended up with a lot of fuses out at once and figured no harm in replacing them as per the fuse diagram. Long story short, car wouldn't turn off. Messed around and found as above, if I pull 1 of the 2 engine control fuses out then the problem goes away and car goes back to normal. However, looking at the wiring diagram, it seems like a pretty important power supply to get rid of (And I could have sworn it was in before, but could be wrong) so basically just after a definitive answer - Is it O.K to leave this fuse out? What is the point of it if so? FYI: I found the switch for the boot light was not working so disconnected it and re-wired the two grounds for my alarm (1 of them back to where it was and the other to the steering column mount) so don't believe either of these things are related. Diagram (Have put the fuse in where it lives in the circuit, is straight feed from the battery prior to this point): As far as I can see the relay must be getting its power From the ECU now. Perhaps the ECU is not switching the ground for the power feed through the fuse correctly and therefore it was constantly on when installed? It is a Link G4 ECU in this car by the way. Maybe someone else with an R33 GTS-t (Mine is a series 1) could see if this fuse is missing from their car? (6th from the bottom on the left side of the fuse panel drivers side)

This is probably going to be my next step if I cant find a solution. Set up a trickle charger while I'm away. Will see if I get time to look at the power feed to the unit today. Gave myself a bit of a scare yesterday when having a look at the earths. I fixed the above and then went to try it and once I turned the ignition on it would not turn off. Unplugged the unit and all. Was worried I had done some serious damage somewhere (worst fear was ECU) but decided to pull fuses. Ignition went out when I pulled one of the 'engine control' fuses, which is a bit weird, but with it left out everything works normally. When I was looking for what was draining the battery I had been pulling fuses with a multi meter set up to measure current and had ended up with most of the fuses out. Put everything back in and had a few missing so just put new ones in. Obviously put one in where it wasn't supposed to go. Would have thought engine control fuse was necessary but cant seem to trace where it goes from the fuse on the wiring diagram so will go with it for now I don't suppose you would know how much of a pain it would be swapping the Viper alarm in if I decided to go down that route? Really want to do it myself but not sure if I could This is the one I am looking at (3105VR):

That was the plug I was talking about. I think there are a few along the top of the head. Wouldnt hurt to pull all the coilpacks out and check. They may be for oil though. I'm not 100% sure

So I had a bit of a look at the wiring for the alarm. Found the earth looking a bit dodgy (it was connected, I cut it and re terminated it properly): I think it was just installed poorly. Those 2 wires are supposed to go to seperate earth points. I might have a look at the power source tomorrow I think you may be right I'm afraid. My old unit was fine, I accidentally fried it one night messing around hooking the siren up (long story) so I just bought another unit the same and swapped the boards over. The new one was fine for a while and then this problem surfaced Just didn't want to spend the money getting someone to install the Viper alarm, and I'm not sure if I could wire it myself. I am pretty good with wiring etc, but from the little info on the wiring for the Viper, it seems beyond me

Don't suppose you have an AFR gauge? It may be just enough extra fuel pressure to richen the tune up a little which may have just been enough. Usually I wouldnt think it would be enough to throw out the idle (would have thought so if going leaner) but I'd say that would be your problem. If you have a hand controller, go to the menu that lets you add/take timing and fuel over the whole map (can't remember what it is called, in settings 'inj/ign something' i think) and slowly take some fuel out while it is idling. If this doesnt work then try adding some fuel. See what happens. At idle theres not a great deal of damage you can do

Bit of a late update. I ended up changing the battery with a good quality AC Delco. The issue is still there sometimes but I am thinking it may be power related. I go out to work for 7 days and when I come back the battery is usually just flat enough that I will get possibly one chance to start the car, So not completely dead, but low enough to cause issues. Now I can get it going and drive the car charge the battery etc and I will get the above issue for a few days, then it will start to come good, and only play up sometimes. I think I have worked out the issue with the battery drain (the boot light switch was not working anymore, and even though I have swapped the boot light for LED it is probably enough to drain it after 7 days of being constantly on). I have recently thought about just ditching it for a Viper alarm/immobilizer but am feeling pretty determined to fix the issue with the Mongoose So still looking for rough idea of what to look for? Bad earth (or poor earth placement)? Poor quality power feed? something else completely? I'm going to have a good hard look myself but figured it couldn't hurt to ask the question while I'm playing with it. Will report back either way if I find something but probably wont know for sure until I've had success for a week or two

I wouldnt expect so. Is the car tuned or stock ECU? RB's like running a little richer at idle usually, so wouldnt have expected idle to be effected that bad

When i had my windscreen replaced they used their own seal. Havent really had any issues. The rear window seal is pretty stuffed and needs replacing but have been lazy

Its been a while but arent there some plugs up around that area? I assumed they were for coolant but could be wrong. Worth pulling the whole coil pack assembly off i would think if you havent already done so. Also, its easier to undo the 5 bolts that hold the coil pack brackets in place to do plugs than to pull each individual coil pack off. If it helps

Oh Wow

May have been replaced with a more generic seal when a windscreen got replaced etc

If above falls through I'm interested in the short shifter.

If your boost gauge is connected to the intake manifold than the engine is getting the boost. Is the boost tee the right way around? They are a very simple design, dont usually play up unless they are setup wrong

Really? The nipple is usually on the compressor outlet and the nipple your asking about is literally 5cm away from where the instructions are telling you it needs to go Yes it is fine

Take it over pit, 1/2 inch breaker bar + pipe if necessary and the fill plug will undo. But as above, can def be filled through the shifter

If it is stock ECU then yes. Disconnect battery. Turn lights on or something to drain the residual power, reconnect battery Out of curiosity, what sort of dump pipe is it?

Also sounds a tad AFM related

No If a bolt has come loose the worst case scenario will be an exhaust leal. As it is after the turbine there is no power loss from this. I'd expect noise and possibly a tiny tiny power gain from an exhaust leak post turbo if anything Id say youve disturbed something while doing the dump pipe. Check all plugs and pipes in the area

More info? What mods?