89CAL

I wouldnt like to be doing more than 40kmh backwards in reverse. Box may self destruct

Is the cat sensor in the cat + plugged in?

Personally id do the hose as well. Will be painful but worth it in the long run Theres a chance the clamp has just come loose but i would replace the clamp (and the hose) so you never have to do it again

Seen as his foot was on the clutch and im guessing the car must have been running (seen as it was being driven prior to this) for a start would not have been an issue.

Says the guy who can't fix his own car? I'd be careful insulting the whole forum if you ever want to be helped again

If it is plugged into the hard line for the power steering then it is the pressure switch to bring the idle up when steering. Im guessing you did the simple things like look for a coolant leak etc? Its not power steering oil leaking through the switch?

Steering wheels should be a straight swap if its series 1.5 or 2. Assuming both wheels are from a car with HICAS, there wont be an issue

Thatll probably do it. Making a bit of a boost leak. Let us know if it gets rid of the chatter. Mine was always pretty quiet from memory

$20 from super cheap if you dont want to wait otherwise

The boost sense line for the wastegate

My Power FC boost control kit never made any noise. Also, when the boost control is turned off, your boost control should (funnily enough) do nothing. I accidentally turned it off once and hit 27psi before i realised (running 18psi back then) Sounds like you have another issue. Is it hooked up right?

Try wiggling the key once its on. Unlikely due to how bad yours is but sometimes mine does this (AC cuts out also) but if i move the key around it comes back to life

Dont bother with a clutch. Stage 17 weight reduction

As above. Have pulled the box out of my car too many times and this plus rotating the box (as you have done) are the best tricks

This isn't need for speed, ignore the whole stage 1,2,3 crap Call NPC Performance clutches. Aus made (use some exedy stuff) and do a good product. I have their lightned flywheel and 10" sprung button clutch in my car, had it for years and has always been great, pedal feels resonably light They also do a twin plate if you want to go all out

Do you want to use the wideband as a narrowband until you get your Link ECU? your last paragraph is hard to follow In short no. Not all narrowbands will be the same. Being that they are narrow, they use the voltage range (assume 0.5v to 4.5v) as a narrow range of AFR. but one sensor may read say 15:1 at 3v and another will read 14:1 at 3v. Since it is only looking at a narrow range of AFR, you can see how this can be a problem It is recommended you run your wideband at least 1 metre away from the turbine exit and facing slightly up (from memory)

Screenshot attatched Part numbers are: 16618-78A00 Seal O-ring, 16635-78A00 Insulator, 16636-V5000 Insulator

OK. Lets clear a few things up: AFR: Air Fuel Ratio MAP: Manifold Air Pressure MAF: Mass Air Flow / AFM: Air flow meter Air fuel ratio is done with a wideband o2 sensor (it is also done on the car from factory with a Narrowband sensor that is only able to read a 'narrow' range of A/F ratio's), this shows how much air and fuel have been used in the comubstion cycle. MAP Sensor uses manifold pressure (boost/vacuum) to calculate engine load and how much fuel to add and what timing etc. MAF sensor actually calculates air flowing past a certain point to calculate the same things. For this reason MAF's are supposed to be more accurate (given everything being setup and running right). O.K so with the Link: You CANNOT use the MAF that is factory fitted to the car (well there is no preset setup for it) so can ditch the factor Air flow meter that sits after the air filter and run a boost line (from the manifold - post throttle body, DO NOT run a line pre throttle body) to the ECU for your initial setup. The MAP sensor is built into the ECU so no wiring at all involved. The external MAP sensor can be placed anywhere in the engine bay but keep in mind you will need to run wiring and a boost line to this one. You can use the wiring from the Air flow meter (that you no longer need) to connect up the MAP sensor to the ECU. I would reccomend getting the XS (expansion) harness with the link. This allows you to have a few more inputs/outputs This is a bad photo but you can see my MAP sensor in the background with the blue boost lines connected to it: Another pic (Link Boost sensor on the right)

Maybe it is for an additional temp sensor? Just not the one you have apparently [emoji14] Or as above, might be for a header tank

What were you checking? The relay will need power and earth for the coil to switch the relay which then should put power on the NO contact in the relay. So you should have constant 12v at the power in (pin 3) of the switched side, 12v on one of the coil side terminals (prob pin 1) when the key is turned on (remember that with the engine not running the fuel pump will stop after a few seconds, should be able to remove the CAS and spin it by hand to make the fuel pump come back on) and there should be ground at the other pin on the coil side (pin 2) Pin 5 and the power into the fuel pump should have a good circuit, I would expect less than 1ohm of resistance

I probably drove mine alot more then I should have untuned. So not recommending driving it daily like this but it will get you to a tuning shop if you don't go putting your foot down etc. I would want to watch AFR's, even though my car was rich, doesnt mean yours will be MAP sensor can go anywhere, it just needs a boost feed. Mine is tucked up the rear right of the engine bay I got a Link 4 bar MAP sensor but you may be able to use others You dont have to hook the wideband up to the ECU but its better to for tuning reasons as well as some on built features of the ECU. You can run closed loop cruise to trim your AFR's when just cruising around sitting on a certain speed

Its not a diode or something is it? Im guessing its not a fuse/circuit breaker because that seems to obvious

Not sure if its the same on R32's but on my R33 if i turn the key about halfway between on and start and hold it there the fuel pump runs. Did so with Power FC anyway and the Link does it to however cuts the pump after a few seconds

The ECU should have a MAP sensor in it. The G4+ i think has a 4 or 5 bar but the standard G4 is only 3 bar if i remember correctly. If you run a boost line to your ECU you can use the internal MAP sensor to get you going. I would recommend running an external sensor in the engine bay I played around a bit with mine just to get it to run/drive so I could take it to get tuned. I have a wideband permanently mounted in the car though so could always watch it (mine was rich af on the link base map) As above I would get a IAT sensor and boost solenoid. I have both on mine

That tells you when your Cat Coverter is blocked (there is a temp probe in the Cat that sets off the light at a certain temp) Could it be a Cat problem? If that is coming up when you are trying to crank I doubt it. I'd only expect it to come up after the car is driven for a bit