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89CAL

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Everything posted by 89CAL

  1. Yes and yes
  2. Cant you go into where it says fault and see what the fault is?
  3. Was the system bled properly? The fact that your issue occurs at higher speed suggests a flow or heat transfer issue so radiator or water pump i would think. Sounds like your radiator though. Pull it out of the car and have a good look at it. Flush it again. Fill it up while covering the bottom outlet and then check how the water flows out. Check the fins and check for any obstructions in airflow
  4. Groundhog day? I've never regretted mine, but it was part payment for some wheels. Car has always driven fine
  5. The solenoid completes a circuit. (As per your pic above) If you block either tube it will not act on the actuator. If you join the two tubes at the solenoid (bypassing it) you will run wastegate pressure Just join the lines where they start to go around the back of the engine
  6. Think about what happens when you block either one of these tubes. What is that going to do? You will stop any boost pressure reaching the actuator What do you think happens if there is no boost pressure at the actuator? If you want to run the wastegate spring setting for boost, all you have to do is run a boost line directly through it (bypass the solenoid)
  7. I'm not sure what you are trying to achieve? What is the Power FC HC telling you the water temp is? Are you trying to use the sensor for a different gauge?
  8. I was actually curious about the YJ ignitor. Im not aware of any other after market ignitor?
  9. Not necessarily. There is an upward force when the lobe is putting pressure on the valve. ARP do cam cap studs from memory.
  10. I think mine was adjusted nearly all the way one way with my old engine. Timing was fine. Looked similar to yours actually
  11. Remember it will be spinning at min 30,000rpm. It doesnt take much weight for balancing to be an issue at that speed
  12. HP Officejet Pro? Sounds like an awful ECU
  13. Intercoolers can be cleaned in case you aren't aware of that
  14. I had a CAS with a stuffed bearing that made horrible noises with the cam cover on but fine with the cam cover off. Worth a try. Pull the CAS off and turn it by hand. Should be easy to turn
  15. This is true, but he doesn't have to carry on the way he does. This is the thing that I like about Rosberg. He is much more.... Professional I guess. All these reports coming out now that Hamilton was going to walk away from Mercedes blah blah blah. As if you would walk away from the best car on the grid mid season.
  16. Which Fuel pressure regulator do you have?
  17. Pull ancillary belts one at a time. I'm putting money on power steering pump or alternator bearing. Remember: Fan belt also drives water pump so don't run the car too long with this one off
  18. You cleaned the AFM, but did you check for dry solder Joints? Do a search on here and try that. Essentially free and could solve your problem
  19. New bearings, rings and a light hone etc will not cost the world. If that's all it needs than not so bad, if it needs more than chances are you have found an issue in time to stop the engine from having a failure. To me its a no brainer. If your pulling the engine to do the crank collar. May as well rip the head off (which hopefully you were going to do anyway to replace the studs/head gasket). By the time the heads off and the crank is out, you only have pistons and rods in the block anyway, so I say rip it apart and do the bearings and rings at a minimum. Much easier knowing that its all fresh then thinking, everytime you drive the car 'hmmm maybe I should have changed that'
  20. You can't assume its out because it 'looks out' Get a timing light and plug lead and check it properly. There is something you have to unplug to check it so the timing doesn't jump around. From memory its the TPS plug
  21. I would expect reducing restriction post turbo should help increase boost not decrease it. As above, I know here have been some issues with JJR Dumps in the past so it could be that. I wouldn't stress too much about it. As above, car is probably just as fast/faster and you can easily bump it back up to 9psi if you want to with a manual boost controller
  22. So what ECU is the car running?
  23. Because backpressure and quick spool and mega boost
  24. While that is not good, It's on the suction side so will not stop the car boosting - unless the open pipe (if thats how you found it) has sucked something into the turbo and 're-adjusted' the comp wheel Pull your suction pipe of and check the turbo for damage and shaft play etc. It is usually fairly obvious when you have a turbo issue.
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