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89CAL

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Everything posted by 89CAL

  1. 89CAL
    I must check this once a year now. Nothing new then I guess?
  2. 89CAL
    Well the worst that can happen is they just say 'not our problem'
  3. 89CAL
    The balancer is basically a press fit. The keyway is mostly to locate it although it does also stop it spinning. If youve ever had to remove one youll know what i mean. Im just curious if they accidentally forgot to put it in. Your theory that something else that wasnt correct for the job was used is also pretty likely as well EDIT: On second thought, it does look like something has been in there. Unless it was already damaged last time it was re-installed
  4. 89CAL
    Was the keyway for the balancer in?
  5. 89CAL
    Fairly sure it is the ambient temp sensor for the aircon. Being that the 32's have an ambient temp reading on the unit, can probably check it on their
  6. 89CAL
    You probably wont get full boost in 1st you know.
  7. 89CAL
    How are you measuring voltage on the injectors? If you are measuring from one side to the other on the injector then you will get next to no voltage. You need to measure between power into the injector with one probe and chassis ground with the other. Remember that the injectors earth through the ECU to fire and only do so when the CAS signals for the injectors to fire. With the key on, engine off you should have - 12V between injector power and ground and nothing (or close to) if you probe either side of the injector (there is no ground so the voltage is not going anywhere and the injector cant use any of it, this means you potential difference voltage accross the injector is 0v) Ive never tried spinning the CAS while testing injector voltage, but that may work, however the pulse may be so quick that the multimeter cant react quick enough I think this is why people use noid lights, but having never really had any injector dramas myself I dont have much experience in this area
  8. 89CAL
    The contacts in the mirror break. Easy fix really. Mine need to be looked at but never end up getting around to it
  9. 89CAL
    Are you parking it on a flat surface when you check it? What grade oil? Ive checked mine on my driveway, which has a slight slope before and oil was low. But back on flat ground was fine I know its simple shit but have to start somewhere. Thicker oil takes longer to drain back. Give the first situation in your story the oil was cold may suggest not all the oil had returned to the sump. If it were me, i would check it, drive it, park on flat ground and after a while check it again. Do that a few times. Check for blowby etc.
  10. 89CAL
    MLS gaskets require a better surface finish then std gaskets. If the head and block were surface finished they may be O.K but if not I would def go with the std gasket I have an N1 pump with billet gears. Best to fit oil restrictors etc. Check the oil control thread in forced induction
  11. 89CAL
    First of all: Timing Second of all: you line up the dots on the gears with the marks on the head while at the same time lining up the crank gear with the mark on the oil pump. If all 3 are lined up, the belt goes on there
  12. 89CAL
    So why not MLS gasket? Just curious Mine is 87mm bore with the cometic MLS and no dramas. But im fairly sure I did alot of mock up etc with the standard gasket and all seemed ok
  13. 89CAL
    $190 on Amayama FYI
  14. 89CAL
    I changed my steering wheel to a MOMO one years ago from a factory one and while I was away at tafe it used to play up on the highway after 5 mins of driving. The light came on but I don't think anything really happened to the way it drove. I had put the right boss kit on but it had a few different slots etc cut into it and hadn't put it on the right way, So all I had to do was move it to the right spot and it was fine. I would go to an import wrecker or phone one and get a second hand part, I bet a new one would cost heaps lol. I can look how much it is when I'm home
  15. 89CAL
    I changed my steering wheel to a MOMO one years ago from a factory one and while I was away at tafe it used to play up on the highway after 5 mins of driving. The light came on but I don't think anything really happened to the way it drove. I had put the right boss kit on but it had a few different slots etc cut into it and hadn't put it on the right way, So all I had to do was move it to the right spot and it was fine. I would go to an import wrecker or phone one and get a second hand part, I bet a new one would cost heaps lol. I can look how much it is when I'm home
  16. 89CAL
    AFAIK, the stock gasket is designed to work up to the maximum over-size bore allowance. So as long as its not above maximum spec (40 thou over I think) the gasket should be fine. Are you just doing a stock rebuild?
  17. 89CAL
    Here's the part diagram out of FAST, it shows what I'm talking about. It has a plug in it for the horn and the bit that spins with the boss kit
  18. 89CAL
    It looks like you are missing half of the steering angle sensor assembly. When you take the wheel off, there should be a plastic hub that rotates on the part in your photo. The plastic hub has a part that protrudes and engages the boss kit, when the steering wheel turns, the plastic hub turns (obviously there are contacts etc inside it that rotate on the rings that are shown in your photo). Is it possible that a previous owner or someone that has worked on the car has broken the hub and just thrown it back together? It will definitely not work how it is. Unless the other half is still on the steering wheel?
  19. 89CAL
    Go to another Centry distributor and see if they can help? Even another supercheap?
  20. 89CAL
    I believe there is a capacitor or some internal component that fails. Can be repaired, but a just bought one off someone for $50
  21. 89CAL
    It is really sensitive too btw. I had the right boss kit but installed it wrong so there was the slightest bit off free play on the steering angle sensor and had the same issue as you Also later on i would have no power steering assist after startup sometimes randomly. Had to replace the HICAS ECU.
  22. 89CAL
    I would reconsider solid bushes for a street car. Being that it is subframe, I'm sure some decent polyurethene bushes would do the job perfectly and not create as much noise or vibration If you decide on this, my plan is whiteline subframe bushes. Whiteline have always worked well for me
  23. 89CAL
    Can you put a wideband in it? Easiest thing would be to watch the AFR in real time and see if it changes when the problem goes away. That way you know the problem and it will make it easier to find the cause
  24. 89CAL
    My forged motor hasn't destroyed itself yet on 10tenths so it can't be too bad [emoji106]
  25. 89CAL
    You nees to understand the difference between an anti-drain back and a bypass valve. The z145 is fitted to both RB30 and RB25 remember, so clearly the anti drain back valve does not do the same job as the valve fitted to the factory RB25 heat exchanger So an anti-drain back works like a check valve in the filter to keep it primed with oil. This means when the car starts it takes less time for the filter to fill up and oil pressure to build. The bypass valves job is to bypass the filter when it gets blocked (and in some other situations when the oil is cold and thick). The principal behind this being that it is better to supply the engine dirty oil then no oil at all. So by removing the stock heat exchanger with the bypass valve, you have effectively removed one of the two features of the oil system in the RB25. Personally, I have run mine the same and don't really think twice about it too often. Chances are (as long as you are changing the filter at proper service intervals), anything that is going to block the filter is probably going to take the engine with it fairly quickly anyway. Or at least thats how i see it anyway
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