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Everything posted by 89CAL
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R33 GTST Coolant Sensor Thread Size?
89CAL replied to Torques's topic in R Series (R30, R31, R32, R33, R34)
Yes it is a switch, brings the AC fan on when it hits a certain temp -
Personally I'd recommend cleaning up all the lifters while they are out but if they aren't noisey etc at the moment its not essential I cleaned all mine and lapped the contact surfaces, only because i bought the lifters separate for my new engine so wanted to be sure. Some of the lifters were quite gummed up to. Like i said, if the lifters are fine at the moment, its not essential to give them a tidy up
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Yeah there is a thread in this section I believe (think it is stickied at the top) called 'the goods on oils' that is a pretty good guide to engine oils. Im using penrite 10 tenths 10w-40 engine oil, redline lightweight shockproof in the gearbox (manual), castrol syntrax (i think) in the diff, kenworth all-cool coolant (because its free for me) and have wilwood brake oil in the brake and clutch im pretty sure
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Speed and kilometers? You mean speedometer and tachometer? I would pull the dash cluster out and look for anything obvious. It almost certainly wont be a fuse because 99% of the time, once they are gone they are gone. I would put money on a bad connection into the cluster or a wire rubbed through or damaged. Worst case - internal defect in the cluster which may be repairable
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The ECU dumps more fuel in when it is cold. Have you done a compression test? Tested for boost leaks? Checked to make sure the turbo is healthy? Checked for exhaust restrictions? CAS in good order? You need to have a bit of a look at a few things I think.
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No good when cold but good when hot..... I would be looking at your coolant temp sensor (for ECU) or your cold start valve
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Contact cleaner, sand and re-fit cables Post up photos if you want
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Rb25det Neo feels like it's jumping when I cruse.
89CAL replied to 25RBGT's topic in General Maintenance
Got a wideband or are you able to borrow one? Stock ECU? -
Poor earth? Bad connection somewhere. Generally resistance increases with heat so this would explain why it is worse when its hot Long shot but worth a look I was going to say maybe a dodgy ignition barrel but it sounds to inconsistent for that Ill have a look at my wiring diagram when i get near a computer to see what it could be
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Hmmmm may need a bit more information. Is it clunking like the starter is disengaging? Or does it sound like there is something physically contacting in the engine/starter/bellhousing etc?
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NPC do a good single plate that should just handle that power or they do a twin plate as well that im told is really good and feels almost like stock. My NPC clutch has been great. I had an Exedy HD cushion button years ago and it only handled 200rwkw for about 6 months so listen to above advise about exedy if you want to go down that path NPC is good because of the local support
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Sounds like a neutral switch problem. Its a safety so the car wont start in anything buy park or neutral. Was it always neutral? If you have a diagram of what all your relays are then look at that and see if there is a neutral start relay. You can check if it clicks when you move in and out of neutral Just guessing. Cant remember if it stops the car cranking or just firing. Can you hear the injectors clicking when cranking? Have you checked for spark?
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This site is not for people to do the work for you, it is to get help. It takes less time to search than to create a thread, and you already had all the information you needed. Maybe it was a bit harsh, but in fairness, it was the first or second result on google on my first search attempt You'd be surprised what you can find on google
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http://www.obd-codes.com/p0650 That took literally two seconds on google
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Im pretty sure ive seen it in there. Id start there. Especially if your washer jets are working as normal when you are actually using them
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I believe there is a check valve (one way valve) in the line that will have a spring so you have to create some pressure in the line. Check valve might be gone or stuffed. If i had Fast available at the moment i could look, but dont im afraid
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Sounds like the tune needs work. Its much easier to trust someone face to face then over then phone. The only way to confirm is to take it to a 3rd party and check AFR's there. If they match the tuner that is saying it is leans figures then you know thats the one to go with. If it was me, I would be getting it re-tuned. Lean tunes dont last long
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What does this plug do on the bottom of the car?
89CAL replied to r32GTSTI6's topic in R Series (R30, R31, R32, R33, R34)
Looks like a power steering line? Not sure, its not the best photo sorry -
11.3v while running? I dare say you need a new alternator anyway..... or you have an issue somewhere You should be seeing at least 13v (can't charge a 12v battery fully with less than 12v)
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RB25 misfiring and spluttering on acceleration
89CAL replied to Azj's topic in R Series (R30, R31, R32, R33, R34)
Id pull the plug off the coolant temp sensor (ecu) and clean the contacts. Continue to drive and see if it is better. I would hazard a guess its more likely you have partially cleaned the contacts by removing and then re-installing the plug if the problem seems to have fixed itself. The ECU merely reacts to what the coolant sensor is telling it so there is no 're-setable' element to it -
There is a hub behind the wheel for your HICAS that engages the (correct) steering wheel boss. It is a steering wheel position sensor for the HICAS. I had a proper Boss kit for mine when i got my MOMO wheel and ended up having the HICAS light come on above 80km/h. Turns out it was possible to have the boss kit in the wrong spot (the locator for the HICAS hub would fit in 2 spots but one was sloppy). Not sure how i messed it up, but it is possible that you have the right boss kit but not installed correctly. Fixed mine and its been fine ever since. As for the horn, it will most likely be a wire off etc from the wheel hub to the steering wheel button. Have you tested the horn actually works? Its easy enough to pull the wheel off. It will be tight on the taper so it wont just fall off but im sure if youve never done it before, a suitable guide will be available on youtube
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He is/owns a performance shop. I'd say his experience is over many years and many cars.
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He is/owns a performance shop. I'd say his experience is over many years and many cars.
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Who's Running A Wideband And What Are You Using?
89CAL replied to SS8_Gohan's topic in Engines & Forced Induction
The AEM doesnt require free air calibration. The sensor has a resistor pack that does the calibration. For 3 years i never touched mine and it was fine