89CAL

Isnt it broken in the old turbo? Not going to matter if you are installing a different turbo......

In future, I'd save your money and just buy regular ATF. Fill reservoir -> start car -> top up if needed and steer car slowly left to right, continuing to top up as required You need to bleed all the air out of the system. For what its worth, they seem to be a pretty strong pump. When i put my new engine in, I ran the car up to temp and checked over it, forgetting all about power steering (was empty) ran the car for probably half an hour all up with no fluid (mind you I didn't turn the wheel) and the pump is still going strong today

It was only late R33's that ran the hitachi CAS. so the 'series 1' CAS was on all RB25's up until mid 97 i believe

I have them with poncams and 27psi of boost. Havent noticed any issues. I dont have a dyno sheet to prove they are 100% fine however

Nismo mounts feel fine in my GTST. Previously had a polyurethene gearbox mount and much nicer with the NISMO's

Pretty sure there is one on here somewherr

I would assume they were M6?

I don't know about 1/4" drive. I was sketchy enough about 3/8" drive on mine and from memory GTR headstuds are M12 not M10 The 3/8" drive sockets ones fit fine

That will last a day at the most. F1 will not let that happen for free.....

I still feel Lewis does things 'off track' to be cool. It doesn't seem to work though, just looks like a dick Dani Ric seems to be getting a bit upset with Red Bull. I hope it doesn't all fall apart now the car is looking competitive again

Which strip are you talking about? Not the strip in the middle of the boot underneath where it opens? I'm not real sure what you mean here. Photo?

Any vac source that comes from the manifold Doesn't matter which Pressure at all points should be equal and undiminished. Or something like that

What are you asking? Line the mark on the crank up with the mark on the oil pump and thats top dead centre cyl 1 (1 or 6 may be on compression depending what the cams are doing) Doesn't really matter either way. You can basically pull the head off in any position, its just easier to do it in TDC so you have a reference when re-installing it

Double Post

Its the high current to heat the sensor that would be killing them. The sensor is connected and controlled through the gauge, so if it is outputting a large current output for too long, it all goes through the gauge, and high current = heat. I installed an MTX-L to mine not long ago. So far so good. Quicker response than the AFM and was much easier to calibrate to the Link

Its free to pull the intake pipe off and check the turbo. Its also free to drop the exhaust (well need to buy a new gasket). Personally I would drop the exhaust pre-cat

Give the AFR's you are see seeing and under which conditions. It may not be rich The only 2 things that cause over fueling are too much fuel or not enough air What causes that will be the bigger question. Tune, losing air out of the system post AFM, 1 or more dud injectors More info needed

Hear the disappointment of no turbo induction?

Turbos on the wrong side isn't it?

Adjust the altenator belt. Not hard, just need to spend 5 mins thinking about what you need to loosen and then tighten the adjuster. Sounds like Alternator belt or bearing. Its free to tighten the belt so do that first

Quick question..... how was it not leaking coolant?

I got an exedy cushion button because they were 'the clutch to have' for city driving etc when you had a bit of power I almost never did anything abusive to it and one day driving home from work it started slipping in 3rd. NPC were great to deal with, spent 20mins on the phone helping me choose the right clutch for me and got it all sorted same day, had it in my hands 1 or 2 days later. The clutch has never slipped, the pedal is lighter and I'm making alot more power than before So I guess I am just bias and noone should listen to me? I've been there and done that. Im only bagging out one clutch as well btw. I know the hhhhdb clutchs or whatever they are handle some power, but i bet the pedal makes your leg alot sorer than my clutch

650rpm I find is too low for the idle. I always set mine at about 800rpm If your IAC was indeed clogged with gunk, setting it back to the same spot will not give you the same idle as before. You will need to do a proper idle adjustment to find the correct idle speed Adjust as follows (The main bit to look at is near the bottom of the screenshot) In addition to this, I would reset the ECU (if you are still running stock ECU). I had an issue with idle when I installed an Atmo BOV then changed back to a plumback where the car didn't want to idle right. Messed with heaps of stuff then reset the ECU and that seemed to fix it. Easy to do, unplug battery > stand on brake pedal, turn on lights etc (basically anything to drain the residual power in the car), also wait about 15mins or so after this if you want to be completely sure > plug battery back in > Start car and let idle for a while. Forget how long it does its self learn thing. Think its about 5-10 mins Report back after doing these things

NoMine failed after about 8 months with 250rwkw NPC is much better. Never ever had a drama. Got it rebuilt when I put my new engine in but that was only to extend the life. Still looked great after 3 years