89CAL

I think a surge tank etc is a bit excessive to just go jumping to when short term goals are so small

They are 10mm bolts not 20mm, im sure there's no need to grind them off . Piggyback spanners or breaker bar and socket with pipe on it. Mine are always tight but have always been able to get them. I know theres not alot of room there so need to jack the car up etc to gain the room

You have to press 'part no. search' up the top (looks like an open book) and it will output the part number and bring up a prompt if there is more than one part for that part code

How did you set it? Did you lock the timing in the vipec software? Was the idle speed correct? What is it actually set at?

Was about to say, i posted my low mount setup. Its nice once its all in there but man its a bitch to work on. On those days i wish i had a high mount but its fairly rare i have to touch it so can't complain too much

Im sure i got one of them when i built my engine. Have you tried Amayama? If you have the part number, a call to your local Nissan will soon give you an answer also

I know they used to struggle to provide the supply for the amount of demand they had. Now i believe they have more capacity to turn over manifolds Not defending any possible bad situations anyone was put in, just adding this

Maybe he shouldnt put exhaust manifolds in his flower bed?

This photo: Suggests it has been wrapped (can see residual fibres on the left hand side of the main pipe in focus)

I'm sure there was something that contributed to it. I've known alot of people with 6boost manifolds and don't recall any issues. Mine has been faultless Frankly, I think its a bit crazy to blame 6boost for being shit when he bought a car with it already fitted but 'never used' Who knows what the previous owner had done. Also I was told not to use heat wrap etc on mine, Perhaps it had heat wrap on it and cracked for that reason? I've had mine on the car for 2 years, zero issues. It looks pretty much the same today as the day I got it, no signs of heat stress etc I'm not trying to say they are the best manifolds in the world and nothing else compares...... But they are a very good product

Have to agree. My 6boost is a work of art. Cannot fault it at all. You have a badly repaired or poorly copied 6boost at best

You have the part number, Nissan is only a phone call away. Or wait and buy from Amayama for $25 If you only want to do it once and dont want to mess around, those are your 2 best options https://www.amayama.com/en/search?currency=36&q=1405321u00

Like this?

Have you never done that or something? You just talk to the car nicely, tell it what you want Sometimes you plug a Vac line in the AFR gauge (make sure its narrowband) and it tunes for you

Am I right in assuming this is a stock ECU? Why not just get another one. Will cost $20 and save you a bunch of time

Steam engine power is good I hear

There's a relay in the passenger footwell on R33's. Assume 32's would be the same. From memory power supply into the resistor pack and then it splits to the injectors individually from there Grounded individually through the ECU on the way back. Just had a look (at the R33) drawing, looks like power supply to the resistor comes straight from the key IGN Grab meter and start probing. Maybe a wire has been mixed up on the ignition barrel

How did you test voltage? Injectors always have power, they are earthed through the ECU

Toothpaste works sometimes

If the tuner offered to look at it when it got colder I'd talk to him Have a hand controller? Watch the timing when the problem happens. Also watch the sensor/sw page for issues The handcontroller is a little bit helpful in troubleshooting but will never be as good as logging on a laptop

$319.21 on Amayama FYI its still not cheap but cheaper.......

Lewis being Lewis It's no secret I'm not a fan of him, but to me he always seems to try and do things so people will go 'wow, Lewis is really cool' I think he should stick to driving the car

I did a burnout in neutral once, but only the left wheels spun. I'm going to change the radiator cap and that will probably fix it.

Has there been a change of season since its gone back to struggling to start a bit more? Could be tune related if you have an aftermarket ECU. I'd also recommend changing the battery if its old/unknown age