89CAL

Ask Stao. He does build the turbo so he will know what gate to use

Is your CAS on the way out? Mine made weird noises when i put the timing cover back on and could not work out what it was. Thought the belt was rubbing because with the timing cover off it sounded ok Turned out my CAS bearing(s) were shot. When you pull the CAS out turn it you will soon know if you have the same problem as me. Should spin nice and freely. Mine was hard to turn by hand

Seriously..... I can fuel my R33 up, have it click off a few times, then pull the nozzle out nearly all the way and gently pull the trigger to slowly fill it till its just about overflowing. I don't do this often but have done it before Have you tried changing the way you hold the nozzle in the filler? The way that fuel guns work, your not going to come up with a fix that is going to be cheap and easy. Your going to need to pull the tank out and mess with the filler, and all to fuel your car up which I can do fine in my untouched R33. Makes no sense at all to me

Sooooooo you put the clutch in and now that you have released it there is a ticking noise? Is the noise coming from the timing belt area or the rear of the engine? Does the noise change with RPM? Is the idle now odd? Need much more information to diagnose things over the internet

I think i was getting around 15-16l/100km with Nismo 740's and Hypergear SS2. Just put EV14 1000cc's in so thinking economy is going to improve a bit now The figure i gave for economy was mixed driving. I never manage to do a proper economy run on a tank lol

Cannot remove the HICAS ECU or you will lose the variable power steering and the steering will be heavy all the time. The HICAS ECU Controls the output to the solenoid on the power steering rack for this You can wire 12v straight to it but then it will be light all the time which personally I wouldn't want but thats just me

Most of the time they are throw away. They are 2 metals contacting together with a grease lubricant so you should get pretty even wear on both parts. I had mine replaced once (payed about $450 for the 4 CV's using my old shafts) it may have been more but im sure they can be done cheaper

If you have literally just bolted the head down, why not take it back off and look

It's already been said, but is their sufficent flow through your raditor? If it is at idle and cruise speed then check radiator for blockages etc. Also check that nothing else is mounted in front of the radiator that is producing hot air flow (e.g an oil cooler with 100 degree oil running through it is going to heat the air before it hits the radiator) When you say driving, is that just street driving or hard driving?

Kudos are great to deal with. You can just buy off their website though. They are on here as well i believe

It won't be the O2 sensor

Dude...... just send it back and buy the right one. Better off buying off Just Jap etc and buying the right one. Otherwise you will just end up spending too much time and effort altering something that doesnt need changing

Ill get to it one day[emoji14] Putting turbo on is more important now lol

The turbo only needs coolant and oil feeds and returns as well as a boost feed. If you have all that plumbed up I wouldnt stress. My KAI i think i didnt use most stuff. 90% sure i saw that odd fitting on the left lying around The turbo bolts to the stock dump and is supplied with an intake pipe. Most of the fittings are just in case

I sometimes have issues with the igniton barrel. Sometimes the car runs but the radio and air con arent working, give the key a wiggle and it comes good. Its pretty rare it happens and once i play with the key it doesn't happen again for quite a while so I've never bothered to chase it up If you wanted to be real good, you could set all your accessories up to run off battery power through a relay that is signalled by acc or ign power so that its a bit more reliable

What boost is it running? I get the impression its stockish now but had some parts on it that have since been removed. If its running any more than 7 psi then you may run into issues with R&R Keep in mind the stock gauge is in mmHg not PSI May not be relevant but there was no mention of a boost figure so thought i would throw that in there. The other suggestions so far are probably on the money if boost is indeed stock

You are not altering Ignition timing by installing new coilpacks. There is a chance that the poor coilpacks have had an increased dwell time. But the car would not have been tuned on crap coilpacks so putting new ones in should just make it as good as it was when it was tuned If its on stock ECU, nothing at all to worry about. Change the coilpacks, do an ECU reset and all should be well

All leads are getting spark?

Everyone has probably already seen it, but anyway RBR 2016 Livery, (2015 car) I think it looks really good

For those of you playing at home, measurements were as follows: Manifold holes: 24.94mm OD of injector adapters: 25.4mm Must be made for a 25.5mm hole or so. I got the adapters machined down to 24.8mm and they worked a treat. Just had to try a different o-ring. Photo attatched:

Hi At the moment when I click on a link in a post, a new tab opens with the link (that part is perfectly fine) but it also follows the link on the current tab which is in SAU. So I end up having two tabs with the link open and no more SAU Not sure if I need to do something or if it is a site problem? Thanks

The machine that crimps the fittings is not cheap, If you really wanted to go down that route, you could go to pirtek or enzed etc and say you want to cut the old fittings off and put new ones on. But personally I think just buy the speedflow hose and fittings and do it yourself. I did mine with no real dramas. All you really need is a grinder/cut off wheel to cut the hose and a bit of patience. Instructions for the fittings should be easy to find. They are pretty straight forward anyway.

Have updated my previous post to show the crimp fitting. It is only do-able if you use the same crimp type fittings. Just buy some speedflow hose with your fittings. You may find you lose some length and the hose doesnt quite work if you cut the hose and re-crimp it

The hose you have on at the moment has a crimp fitting on it, the speedflow ones are push/twist/screw on (you get the idea) So you have crimp -10 fittings, that fit on -10 adapters, makes sense yeah? The hose is to suit the fitting, the AN -10 refers to the style of fitting (they are JIC, tapered flange seal) I'm fairly sure the hose you have fitted (with the crimp fitting) is designed for higher pressure, which may be why it is thicker. Being a crimp fitting, obviously the fitting starts out large, a barb is pushed into the ID of the hose and a machine is used to crimp the outside of the fitting onto the hose so it 'grabs' the hose and also presses the hose into the internal barb to seal This is the crimp style: Hope that explains it If your buying the speedflow fittings, just buy some new speedflow hose. Cheaper to do it once and do it right. Oil is not something you want to be leaking out

Might want to try the classifieds. There is a 'wanted to buy' section in there.