89CAL

I'm hoping about the same. Will certainly get it sorted either way anyway Will post in here with some photos etc, might help someone one day

Not a problem mate, I appreciate your time anyway. As long as Dad had a small enough bit to cut the o-ring grove a bit deeper, I'm not expecting any issues at all. Its the first issue I've ever had with this manifold, I got it as part payment for some wheels I sold so at least I didn't pay for it[emoji14] Have had one or two people say it is one of the better copies they have seen so can't be too bad Ill let you know what size the holes are when I'm home on Friday/Saturday if your interested Scott? I was away so they just got a rough measurement by someone else the other day who didn't have verniers They standard seals don't have to be forced in so I'm guessing there won't be much in it

I think the 26 bolts are different, pretty sure they are a higher torque setting Someone else will wander through soon and give you a positive answer

Bit of a thread dig, but interested to see what people have found, or let people know of a potential issue...... So the manifold adpaters did fit fine in the standard manifold. However, my Greddy copy Manifold was a different story. the adapters are too large and won't fit inside the holes. My plan is to machine them down and use them, just interested to see if anyone else has found the same problem and how they got around it BPP who supplied my fuel rail said its a known issue with the copy manifolds because they are never made exactly the same. So hopefully a bit of handy info for someone that will be in the same position

I think that the cat overheat light is used to flash fault codes in R32's? Search for fault codes for R32

Got mine Yesterday. Fitted. Looks a bit nicer Havent pulled the second one out for a look yet. But should be fine

First of all: Rocket covers...... no. Just no. They are ROCKER covers when the car has a rocker setup. RB25's run OHC with no rocker setup, so they are actually just cam covers What spark plugs did you use? Have you tried having a look at the cold start valve? Is it plugged in and getting power? Are the lines to it OK etc? If it runs 100% when warm then it has to be something that is only operating on cold start (like the cold start valve, i think the AAC will also be more active at cold start)

Has the head unit lost its memory and needs to be set to output a signal to an amp? Play around with the head unit settings. Long shot but worth a look. Also check the signal wire hasn't been damaged If there is power there and a signal from the head unit then its probably something internal. Have you got a fuse inline on the cable to the battery?

I like it, but I think I read somewhere that it is indeed just a pre-season livery. Will miss the black and gold Lotus colours thats for sure

All his money did them good but

Your talking about the blower fan that blows the air around inside the car? There is an issue there, it sounds like wiring to me. By changing the unit I'd happily rule it out as the problem so its after that. Im not sure how it controls fan speed, looks like it does it through a fan control amp in the R33, I dont have an R32 wiring diagram on me. In terms of R33 the fan is powered direct from a fuse (ACC), tees to the amp and then must be grounded through the HVAC unit, so because everything else works (door actuators etc) and im assuming the problem is either that your blower fan has incorrect wiring (earthed straight after the fan by someone or by a wire rub through etc) or the Amp might be wrecked (if it has one like the 33 does) Best bet is to trace some wires around the fan

65846-40F00 $2.57ea, I ordered 36 of them for 2 bonnet mats, but think I ordered extra. FAST says 16 per vehicle.

I ordered a bunch through Amayama when this all got going I was prepared

Do you know what the issue with the Power FC boost control kit was? Mine worked pretty flawlessly when I ran it

No problem, good luck with it

off topic but are you interested in selling the nismo one?

AFAIK no difference between any of the RB25 water pumps. The Nismo one is different of course The RB30 pump is different (has the stud/bolt in the different spot) and im not sure about the RB26 pump. This is from what i remember

I see. Got a multimeter? If not borrow or buy one and check voltage with the car running. 13.5v - 14v is about what you want to see at idle Start there anyway. Report back

I would say an internal leak in the brake booster, if it was the hose it would leak all the time I would listen around the brake booster for a leak anyway. Sounds like the most likely cause.

VCT does not stop working when you bump the boost up. If you have a stock ECU and increase the boost then have problems with power/engine cutting out/engine feeling doughy, then the most likely cause is R&R, built into the ECU to prevent an accidental overboost from destroying your engine. It's not a case of it being 'sensitive' to boost, the car was designed to run 7psi max, so the ECU takes a better safe then sorry approach when it calculates airflow exceeding that. Unplug your VCT, see if it feels worse, if it does then its definently not your VCT. It will be the ECU

The most likely cause is the ECU spazing out at the increased boost and doing some R&R to save the engine I'd be very surprised if its a VCT issue especially seen as it wont be working at the RPM you have mentioned anyway My thoughts are unhappy stock ECU or coilpacks breaking down

I've had this But now I have Series 2 with Lip, I like it way more. I think the Series 1 front looks too dated Edit-3137 by 89CAL, on Flickr

As above. I found my mates RB20 powered R32 to be pretty fun because of the way it delivered the power. It had a different turbo, I don't think he ever found out what it was or I don't remember what it was, but wasn't much more powerful then stock. Build a 25 or 26 etc on the side with everything you want on it, drive the RB20 in the meantime. Pull it off the road, swap engine, and away you go again. Less time off the road, and less time mucking around with the RB20 by trying to throw RB26 parts on it lol

If it were me, I'd isolate the faulty coil and try to sort out a warranty claim. At least you will get something for free. In the meantime I would plan to get some splitfire coilpacks. Drive it around normally on the yellowjackets, put the splitfires in then get it tuned. I can't remember if it was a daily driver, but mine is so I would do that to keep it mobile so I can at least get places Sometimes you can test the coils by unplugging them one at a time with the car idling, listen for a noticable change in the engine note/revs, that generally means you've unplugged a good coil (as removing it from the system has made the performance worse) However, if it only plays up under higher loads then this probably wont work. I did this test with mine and noticed change in engine note on 2 cylinders from memory, but mine played up at idle. Because I was never going to get warranty, and didn't want to risk more failing, I just replaced them all with new splitfires

7 years. Ive always run a valley cover and my engine bay gets quite hot now so i think they failed a little early because of that