89CAL

Interesting My old splitfires died recently (this was not a gap issue, they were breaking down nearly on idle. Must have had at least 1 no good coil) so i have a brand new set in now Might gap the plugs a bit lower next time to be safe. Although its only a street car and havent really had any dramas before on 0.8

I run 23psi with splitfires and 0.8mm gap. Good times They will do till they break

Racecar but stock ECU?......

I think it only drops the idle when the car shows speed of 0. Mine never used to have the input to the ECU from the speedo and i didnt even notice till i was looking at some of the ECU wiring one day and saw it had been cut

I think its time to pull the cam out. If the other half of the cam tunnel looks like that then it will only cause problems. Pull the cam out now You cant just go buy a new cam cap anyway. They are matched to the head so the cam caps off my engine wont work on yours. Best case scenario is that you will need to pull the head off to get the new cam cap tunnel bored to the head (if you want to do it properly)

Wut? Are you sure your cold start is tuned 100%? Depending on the ECU, may need some fuel corrections changed or even timing I doubt the fuel reg is causing issues when cold but not when hot.

That pin through the shaft is sold as. I tried knocking one out of my old noisey CAS and it wouldn't budge at all

Seriously how often do you expect to drive your car with a tablet displaying real time data? I think its a cool feature, but it doesnt beat the power FC hand controller for pure convinience. Having the data displayed on your phone would be handy but i know what would happen if it was me - 3/4 of the time i would be too lazy to connect my phone up If it was a feature in the Link ECU, it'd be great, but on an ECU that is not popular in AUS, its not a feature that sells it to me As for a tuning perspective, as has been said, how hard is it to plug in a cable really?

I'm not stressed To me the best place to put a fuel pressure sensor would be Immediatly before the reg or on the reg. That way you know without a shadow of a doubt what your end of line fuel pressure is. Maybe its 2psi more at the rail inlet, maybe its 0.00000001psi more But like I said, I'm not going to stress about it, doesn't appear as though OP is to stressed either

That graph isn't really too conclusive If you don't know the application it was tested on. What is at the end of the line? You can imagine that there is a vast difference in pressure drop if you block off the end, or if you have the end open. Its not useless information, but its also not too relevant if there is no information on the test. In theory if the line was dead headed (Blocked) there should be equal pressure along the line (There will be a slight difference from the start to the end) So for example. if I used a -6AN 14' line, with a 12psi set fuel regulator at 200gph and use that chart, I will get a 12psi pressure drop. How does that work?

Pressure = Resistance to flow Drop in pressure MAY indicate a drop in flow Pressure should be equal, shouldnt matter too much as long as you dont put it in the return line as stated above. I'm going to use the gauge port in my turbosmart reg, that is what its there for after all OP Hasn't really stated the reason for wanting a fuel pressure gauge. Generally they are there to set the FPR, then almost forgotten about unless there is an issue or you happen to be looking under the bonnet while the car is running and glance at the gauge. If OP Is using a standard rail, and wants to put that adapter in, then use the stock reg, thats probably the nicest way to do it on the reg side. Otherwise, as above, easiest option is probably to just tee off the feed line. A barb fitting tee piece, some fuel line and a few hose clamps will cost next to nothing, do the connection down out of sight and run the hose up to a gauge where you want it. Mount the gauge through a bracket to a fitting with another barb and job done?

It is an oil filter bypass valve. In a way it is a check valve, but it doesnt perform the function your every day check valve Look at the way it is designed in the photo above. Oil comes from the pump in the outer ring through a hole, it then passes through the filter through the inner hole to the lubrication system. The plug is installed in the outer ring so that if the filter is blocked, oil comes in from the oil pump and straight back out through a spring loaded check valve (oil filter bypass valve) So its primary purpose is to allow a passage of oil at 'x' pressure normal check valve is to stop a oil from flowing the wrong way bypass valve is to allow oil to flow at a certain pressure. And thats my boring and slightly pointless talk about some basic hydraulics

If it were me, I would drill and tap the plug, get a slide hammer screwed into the hole and try and slide hammer it out. The fact that you are going to drill it means that swarf is going to be created, so you would want to give the oil ports a good clean out. It would be best done with the engine out of the car and the block stripped FYI, I run a thermostatic oil cooler plate and still have the plug installed with no issues at all. I think you can buy an oil filter that has an internal bypass to get around the problem of not having a physical bypass in the block but I havent looked into that fully yet

Oh damn. Lewis' music career is happening apparently http://www.cbsnews.com/news/60-minutes-ot-hear-lewis-hamiltons-first-songs/

Get a steel pipe that will fit neatly inside the hose and clamp it on. Get a p-clamp that fits around the pipe then and bolt it somewhere that will bring it out of the way Thats a basic idea but you can bend the pipe etc to make it fit properly

Is this with standard ECU? It will not like 12psi at all

Ive already told you the most likely problem

Standard ECU doesnt like the extra airflow. Need to upgrade ECU

My comment about it all being rumors was directed hearsay about the Renault KERS System being the weak link or not the weak link. Not to do with the TAG-Renault deal

Who knows. There was a bit of info going around that the Renault ICE was pretty solid, just something to do with the KERS deployment wasnt quite as good as others But then ive also read stories that state the KERS was great. There was a really good article about how RBR wanted to use the engine with their own energy systems and brand it as an infiniti engine Its all really just rumours until someone who absoloutly knows comes forward anyway Hoping it will be a good thing buy will see. Interested to see if anyone brings out any crazy new ideas on their car next year. When designers go outside the box its always very interesting

Been watching some of the season reviews on fox sports. Reminds me why i dont like Lewis........ Its almost sad remembering how strong Mclaren used to be though

Yes but if you have xpurt injectors dont they run different plugs?

Not sure how i missed that..... lol I have a spare spoiler blade here because i bought a carbon fibre one. But thats probably not much help

I would assume that if the display isnt working properly then the screen has an issue. Wether that be a connection issue or the screen itself is had it. If it were me, I'd get another climate control unit, however i dont know how common R32's are as wrecks to steal parts off over there (or people who pull the A/C out of there car) It still may be better to just replace it unless you feel confident pulling the unit apart and having a look

Silly question but did you change the plugs while you were at?