89CAL

RB25's are shit Thats why I have one...............

As above unless you are planning moderate to heavy mods (and if you are you should be doing more then replacing just the bearings anyway), the OEM bearings will be fine. Unless you suspect a problem, and even then I'd only be pulling a few caps to check if i was really concerned

Im sure he would be doing better then racing Manor's though lol HAAS is an interesting one. They are predicting they arent going to start out crap because of Ferrari engine, gearbox etc (and chassis too i think) but im still not 100% sold that they will get the aero spot on first go. Will it be Ferrari's 2015 engine anyway?

You have to wonder if Mclaren think they are fooling anyone. Alonso on the radio slamming the car then the next day statements come out about how he is commited to the team and wants to be there for the length of his contract and the usual stuff about how they just need to keep working on the car Alonso must be dreading leaving Ferrari by now.

have you tried unplugging the washer motor while it is happening? Sounds almost like it is staying on slightly after activating one or the other. I would have a bit of play while it is happening. Unplug the motors on the washer bottle. After they are electrically disconnected, if they still leak, squeeze the line to stop flow and then after a few seconds release it again and see if the water flows again then report back

Do you know the part number from Holden? I've often wondered if they would stock them but wasnt real sure of the part number and havent found time to go and ask about it. Or is it the same as the part number mentioned in the first post?

Is the compressor clutch engaged though?

Indeed

Without the covers on, I'm thinking maybe something got in there and got caught between the belt and pulley or something along those lines breifly It looks like it has rubbed on something anyway

I looked on FAST and it looks like it may be a printed circuit board. Not at my computer right now so cant put the parts breakdown up but you may find that it runs a printed circuit board with LED's built into it then a lense plate over the top Good news however is that the printed circuit board part is only $66 (US) from Amayama so if you are really keen to fix it then it shouldn't cost too much assuming it comes out of the dash easy enough

If this helps, not sure if it will. If you have a multimeter, you may be able to check for a circuit from the selector to the dash, but I'm not real sure thats how it works.

Having a bit of a look into the wiring diagrams I have, and on FAST, it does look like a bit of an odd setup. I'd pull it out and have a look. It must send some sort of signal to the dash from the A/T controller so I'd say its either a bulb (if they run 1 bulb per gear displayed) or an open circuit/broken wire to the dash Again, its a strange setup so I may be wrong, but thats where I'd start

All good, Your point is a fair one. And I have absoloutly no problem with those that have been around and are done with the Skyline scene posting here and contributing to the forum etc. Just OP has joined the forum to specifically ask a question about a WRX. It's got me more confused then anything

I was more getting at a subaru forum being more helpful (as more likely to come accross someone who has had the same issue) But it was a bit of a blunt comment in hindsight

Dont they have subaru forums?

Well your certainly not going to fix it with the cluster in. Just pull it out and have a look. I dare say it will have an individual globe. To me the trans ECU would get a signal from the gear selector then output a signal to the corresponding globe on the dash

Are we able to get other NISMO items as above?

Mines street driven so prefer not to introduce noise if i can help it lol

Ill try and remember to send payment through in the morning. On Night shift and have limited phone reception

Did you notice much noise once you put the GKTech brass bush in? I have one sitting at home but dont know if i want to use it have the uprated springs and it makes the box feel a bit nicer Yours may be a track car so the noise might not be an issue lol

What turbo? If stock then I took the outlet elbow off mine (I assume R32's have the same thing, can't remember) and drilled and tapped a fitting in there. Meant I didn't have to remove the compressor cover and mess with it, and could still get a boost feed from the turbo outlet. On other turbo's there is sometimes a cast flat section on the comp cover that you can do the same with that Taking a cooler pipe out and getting a nipple welded into it is the next easiest thing to do. There are such things as weld free nipples that you have to drill a hole in the pipe for, then the nipple feeds from the inside and has a seal that sits against the pipe and then a nut and a seal on the outside. I would just get one welded in though This is the best photo I have of mine. I got female adapters welded into the pipework so that I could screw in fittings. And seen as I'm already on photobucket........Nipple into the comp housing: And nipple off the elbow on stock turbo

It should go between your wastegate actuator and where it picks up its boost feed What turbo is it? If it is setup using the above boost source to the actuator then you may be able to drill and tap a fitting into the compressor housing. Or just pull the cooler pipe immediately after the turbo outlet off and take it to an exhaust shop and they should be able to weld a nipple into it The point where it is going on the throttle body is a pressure only port but i wouldnt use it

My 6boost is low mount but it does rise before it goes down to the turbo. I have developed quite a bit of damage in the mat around the manifold area so not sure if its the age + the heat or just the heat. Will find out the hard way I guess lol

Do you see sparks coming out everywhere when you flick switches? Wires are fine as long as the insulation between them is fine. I believe there may be types of wire that are suitable to use in fuel but i have never looked into it so not sure what sort Remember that for a fire to start it needs an ignition point. Electricity does not provide an ignition point unless it suddenly becomes able to create a circuit between a gap. Think of how ignitors (think bbq lighters) and even spark plugs work. This probably isnt a very good explaination

Yeah they are a nice manifold