89CAL

Just got mine now looks pretty good is someone doing instructions for these?they dont look to hard but always helps to know wat your doing the only problem i can see with mine is that my afm seems to be mounted a bit to far towards the engine so that may have to be moved or the box adapted but other then that looks fine

there is water gallerys that run through the plenum into the side of the block..... i guess just pull the plenum off and coolant is gonna come out. If u want to put new coolant in just drain it from the bottom radiator hose and that should get most of the coolant out. depends how much u want to refill, but if ur going to need to bleed the cooling system when ur done either way

Id say with the horn thing if ur pressing the horn button on your steering wheel and thats making it go away then its probably a problem up around the steering wheel area as i said before. Dunno how u go about pulling the steering wheel off to check it seen as it has an air bag maybe pull the colum surround off and try to look up and see if u can see any thing loose or broken Thats my guess anyway....

I'm just interested to see some setups. I may do it in the future but for now im happy. Dont think the stock fan sucks to much power out of it

Been a while but update: My A/C noise was from the washer/dust seal (or whatever u want to call it) on the outside of the A/C idler being to tight and it was rubbing metal off the actual idler so thats fixed now and all good The timing cover is still not being co-operative. I drove around with it for a while with the bottom bolts only just done up enough so they wouldnt fall off and decided to check everything and give it another go yesturday and same thing.... as soon as i tightened the bottom bolts on the upper cover up it would make the noise. Can do the top two up tight and dont have any noises. It appears to be the bottom right bolt in particular that is making the noise. Howeve it does not seem to be damaging the belt or anything cause the belt still looks perfect...... So still after help if anyone else has had this problem atm ive just got left the bottom bolts a little looser Cheers Callan

still waiting on mine also wont stress to much till friday or so, im probably a bit further away then most people lol

Opps just relised the front bar is for series 2 but i still think the lip is for series 1.... its not the normal nismo front lip that I've seen on Series 2's noone have any more info on it?

Hi all recently been having a bit of a surf on the just jap website and found that they are selling a nismo front bar and a nismo front lip for series 1 R33's. I have emailed just jap for some info but was just wondering if anyone has one on their car or has seen one I've never seen a series 1 with a nismo lip that i know of Here is a link to what im talking about Just Jap Linky Cheers

generally with intercoolers on a S1 R33 u dont have to trim to much if u plan it and measure etc the front bar and reo bar should stay fairly intact its all about alignment and how good you mount the cooler

howd u go? as above, about halfway on the gauge is around 80 degrees or so. In regards to the horn on my old VL I had a similar problem where it would go off randomly, one time i was driving down my driveway just about to pull onto the road and it just went off and wouldnt stop. This happened just as a cop car was driving past lol lucky they didnt seem to care. Anyways, it was an aftermarket steering wheel and if i tightened it up to tight that would cause it to go off when i indicated or turned or something like that, it was also blowing a fuse which would make the relay for the horn click on and have it go off. It was due to a bad earth or something so just check the wiring, if youve got a standard steering wheel that uve never touched then it probably wont be that but just an idea for you

Oil, Oil Filter and spark plugs is what i would do. check your gearbox and diff fluids but they should be fine as long as they are at the correct level. Changing them out however would give you piece of mind as you would at least know what you have in them then.

well usually you tell the clutch is going cause it will slip lots for example put your car in 4th when ur doing a low speed so that ur engine is doing pretty low revs and then hold ur foot down, if it accelerates slowly but normally then its probably ok but if ur car revs and you dont really speed up then ur clutch is probbly gone I dont understand the noise ur describing however like a ratched as in lots of successive clicks? how quickly do they follow each other? could be a problem elsewhere or a gearbox or throwout bearing problem

lol there is alot of myth about the series 2 being steel wheel or steel this or steel that I'm pretty sure the only difference is the bearing/s in them other then that they are exactally the same

yeh sound like you've missed the afm. Otherwise i guess he would have said something about an adapter for AFM to Pod that thing connected to your airbox, the clyinder type thing with the squareish box on top with wires coming out of it measures the airflow into your engine. Without this your car thinks it is getting no air and will not run

ahh yes karina phone or email niswreck and get a price on one off them, dont think it will be cheap but its not something you see floating around here that often but u might be lucky no u cant steal mine good luck with it. Let me know how u go

What about a GT2871R? They do a Skyline version of it now at horsepower in a box Thats what im considering for my turbo upgrade atm. Pretty sure there garretts answer to the HKS GT-RS which i was originally considering

If we can get a volenteer from the R32, R33 and R34 (maybe even V35) to put up what lightbulbs are in each (hi and low beam) and edit the first post so that everyone knows what they got would be a handy little bit of info. Just an idea Im low on funds atm but if your doing another group buy in the future i would be interested

yeah it shouldnt blow hoses just cause its hot my gauge sits at about halfway constantly when its warm just for reference, where abouts was yours sitting? Bleeding the cooling system is easy it just involves filling the radiator up with coolant and undoing the bleed screw on the plenum (has never open when hot written on a little sticker next to it i believe, at the front of the plenum up top) and then just running the car till u get some coolant coming out fairly constantly and the radiatornot taking any more coolant i dare say the system wasnt flushed after changing coolant one time or something and youve got a blockage because of it

lol yehh i think its just to tight on the A/C compressor,i think i did them all a bit tight out of frustration and being in a hurry cause id spent 12 hours on the damn thing and just wanted to go home lol fixing it all up today, even sourced a bolt from a friend who decided to ditch the timing cover when his did the same thing as mine lol Hopefully will be all good this arvo

EDIT: Fixed my problem lol Program is good but i wish it had illistrations for manual gearbox

likewise lol u didnt see if/when u sent the box

dryer vac? or something i cant remember atm what there called but its something like that the switch i think tells the AC Compressor when it has built up enough pressure so that it stops running. I think if this switch is faulty the air con just doesnt run? Thats the best i can do, may be right, may be partly right, may be completly wrong lol sorry

Just found out that most of my noise is actually coming from my A/C compressor when clutch is engaged (A/C on, car running) the noise isnt present but as soon as i turn A/C off (clutch disengaged, car running) then i get a loud whirring type noise still gonna take the timing cover off for a looksy but a bit concerned about the A/C compressor could it be a tight belt cause i think i did it a bit tight? was no problems before the service, only thing is i may have spilt collant or water on it but i didnt think that would have to much affect if everything is still working (AC is still cold)

Ok so for example your driving along in 4th gear (manual im assuming?) at lets say 60km/h and u remove your foot from the accelerator and the revs rise a little before going down? try driving it hard say for exmple full throttle up to 4-5k rpm then take ur foot off and see if it does it if it doesnt then i suspect its your aac valve perhaps otherwise...... hmmm stock ecu? if so try reseting that, its a weird problem your having and im just suggesting that as a general thing, It may be as easy as that but yeh your problem seems rather weird

also did u bleed the cooling system when u replaced the coolant? probably wouldnt cause ur problem but will make the car overheat if it isnt done properly. It probably will be to do with that pipe but as ActionDan said thermostat alone wont do it. Possibly the cap if its stuck closed for some reason but that ones a bit sketchy