89CAL

Best part about building engine, is when everything is painted and pretty before it goes in the car and gets dirty etc

The exact ones I have are the ones on the far left on the top photo on this page the ones you have linked may be right but I cant confirm.

I've always wondered if mine has perished due to extra turbo/manifold heat, or just old age. I guess I'm about to find out lol

Forged internals are pretty But not necessary in most cases I wanted to do a rebuild and make mine able to handle anything i threw at it if I decided to change things later on so thast why I went forged. I'd focus more on ARP studs etc to be honest. It really depends on your intended use, your budget and your power goal

Hmmmm I thought they made them for the bottom of the injector as well. But I may be wrong. They definently look shorter then my 1000cc's I had a page with the pics of all the adapters etc attatched but cant find it. I may be talking complete rubbish though, Scott would know better then me

What is wrong with it? What is it doing?

A/C belt only drives the A/C so will cause no harm at all. The fan belt drives the altenator as well as the water pump so it shouldnt really be removed for testing as you will have no water flow through the engine Power steering and A/C Belts only drive the one thing so can be removed for testing

They need spacers. These are pretty readily available. Those look like they are just the injector on its own. Pretty sure they need the smallest of the spacers, but top feed injectors in stock manifolds arent my forte Scotty on here should be able to help you out. He will probably show up in this thread sooner or later This is from a quick google search, bottom of the page. Click here

I would to see if the knock stays the same etc. While turning it on and off should elimiate the major rotating parts, it may have a faulty clutch or noisey bearing etc. I would pull the belt off just to see

Did you turn the AC compressor off or even pull the belt off to eliminate it as the problem?

My Tomei pump is about 6 years old now. Still as quiet as the day i got it

I like your optimism that it might be cheaper because its smaller lol

This makes me want to finally get my car done and put the EV14's in and fix the exhaust up. I have everything to do it just need to find the time and money for a tune. Plus we have just got E85 on pump in town so looking at flex fuel now. It never ends Very promising results on the SS2, mine is a little down at the moment we think due to the exhaust, and I think I may bump a few more PSI into it when it is tuned next. If I can match your results I will be happy as

Why did you test it with the balancer off? If the timing marks all line up there shouldn't be an issue, and if you are really worried then turn it over by hand, that way you avoid this kind of disaster Tips for next time

Yeah thats similar to how I did the rear diff bushes. I had a quick go the other day at pressing the bushes out but I really haven't had time to have a proper go. They seem to be in there awful tight lol. Will cut the rubber bits out and just cut them out I think. Seems the easiest way

I'm more concerned about getting mine out then putting the new ones in.......

Well...... If the GTRS did it, and the Pro S wont, then maybe its a problem with the Pro S?

When you say no actuator or boost connected, did you mean that the boost line is pulled off the actuator so it is not controlling boost? If so you have a wastegate problem. There is no exhaust restriction if the exhaust is straight through so that wont be the issue. Was it a brand new pro s turbo or did you buy it second hand?

Not really....... Pressure in the rail and hose before reg (if applicable) No pressure (or minimal pressure) after the reg back to tank

This is what im thinking EFI cars dont run without some sort of pressure

FYI Tomei pumps are the same as NISMO but a little bit cheaper. I have one, has been a great fuel pump. Quiet and straight drop in

All good. If you had a rough idea then great, if not it shouldnt cost the world (i hope)

Have you plugged into the VIPEC at all to see if there is anything obvious wrong? Im not suggesting you play with any settings if you dont know what your doing but there are quite a few things you can log to get an idea of whats happening

Go and buy a starting tap and run that down them carefully if your concerned

I'm fairly certain you can get to all the bolts with either a swivel or a wobble extension. I'm not 100% because it was quite a few years ago the last time I torqued up a stock manifold, but fairly certain I was able to get all of them with a torque wrench