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Any idea on this? I have to work out payment for the 2nd under bonnet mat (if it is still wanted) so i can confirm im ordering either 2 or just the 1 for me

You can log the signal from the CAS with an oscilliscope (i believe) and check for any roughness in the signal if you want to be absoloutly sure thats the issue Personally Id just find someone with a known working (100%) CAS and swap to check if that solves the issue Im interested (as above) to know what makes you think it is pinging, as most good tuning shops use proper knock monitors

How to google: [what you want to search for] site:www.sau.com.au without the brackets of course......

I run Ryco, i use the premium ryco ones but still cant be much different. Forged engine and so on. No dramas at all

Only question I have now is how much is postage going to be interstate etc? I will have to confirm the second bonnet mat I'm in for once I get a rough Idea of what they will cost landed here.

Cant you go to an import dealer in Brisbane? Look at some skylines fresh from Japan. Im the first Aus owner of my R33, bought it stock as a rock and it was clean as bar some damage to the dash (think the previous owner had something mounted there) It cost me a little more then going for a private sale but i did end up with Warranty and probably a much better looked after car

Someone probably thought it sounded cool? Generally the most common reason this is done

Didn't even touch a barrier. Fairly lucky with a blowout at that speed

Is that $255 delivered for the bonnet mats?

Is there power to the ignition relay? Injector power comes from there I'm fairly certain. Or the ECCS realay. one of the two blue relays in the passanger footwell on an R33GTR. Doesn't really help to much as you are talking about in a patrol, but might help you locate the relay on the harness

If you've changed the plenum and havent pluged in the AAC then why dont you fix that and see how it goes? Have you tried pulling out a coilpack and sitting a spark plug in it and seeing if it actually sparks when you turn the CAS? If it will spark then you will assume there is enough spark there to at least start and idle the car. EDIT: For some reason I thought this was about no spark. I'll leave my post here anyway as it might help

Is there power at the light sockets? Is the light switch faulty?

Does the oil level drop now that youve fixed it? Im wondering if its just burning off oil that was in the wrong spot because it wasnt breathing properly. May be turbo but its good to rule out cheaper/easier things first

PCV looks okay, looks fairly new You can test if you want, its just a check valve so you should be able to blow through it in one direction and not the other Catch cans arent really necessary on stock or near stock cars, im not sure what is done to yours

What about the PCV?

I know tial have quite a few different coloured springs. Thats why i thought of it

Are the breather hoses etc hooked up correctly? PCV (off the drivers side cam cover) hooked up to the intake manifold (and PCV working)? Both cam covers hosed to the intake pipe? Catch can setup?

Was it definitely a turbosmart spring? I have Tial and i think i have a blue spring with it. He didnt mix up springs or something?

I'm on PS4, think online works the same with both? not sure

Wow thread has been dead for a while Anyone keen on doing some races Saturday to unlock some car goodies (either race normally or let each other win to get some wins up)? I want to unlock turbos and shit

Did you even try to figure it out? If you go to google and spend 5 seconds like i did having a search you will probably find what you need

NPC can probably answer that question for you. Honestly, they are not just trying to sell as many clutches as they can, they will help you choose the right one for your application. It should be fine. Go the Billet flywheel as well as it directs a bit of air through the clutch as it spins. The main killer of these clutches is excessive heat, so as long as you arent riding the shit out of it, you shouldnt have an issue. Mine is street driven and taken to the drags once in a while, my clutch was fine last time it was out of the car, no signs of any problems at all. I got it rebuilt as a preventative thing, but I dont think it was necessary at all. Had an NPC clutch for probably 6 years now.

I always Prime bare metal after roughing the surface up. Haven't had a problem

Is the cam timing right?

Is it fuse 8 (10A)? If so it powers and signals the ECCS relay then feeds power directly to the ECU as well as the AFM and CAS by the looks of it. Try unplugging the ECCS relay for a start (because a power feed for the ECU tees off between the relay and the fuse) then unplug AFM and CAS and see what happens. Then plug them in one at a time and see if one blows the fuse. Other then that it will be a wire shorted to ground or faulty ECU (which you have already tried to eliminate anyway)