89CAL

I swapped my s1 mat over to my s2 bonnet so they do fit. But may as well get the right part numbers (unless one is cheaper perhaps)

If it was any time other than this weekend I would do it, But I'm not going to be in Mackay Helpful I know haha Are you a member of the Mackay Imports pages on facebook? Might be worth a try if you want an import to do it.

Yeah but you dont usually see a rise in temp that rapid. My clutch fan was had it and when parked near a wall etc on a hot day it would on rise at say 1 degree per 10 seconds (when already at operating temp) I would get either an IR temp gun or a temp probe and verify the sensor is working properly, then make sure coolant is flowing accross the radiator and try and bleed again. Is there a special trick with bleeding RB26's? I havent played with one for a while

I was going to say something about the fan. Not sure if its running the stock clutch fan or an aftermarket electric fan setup but would be good to know what its up to. I dont believe it can be causing the issue, it sounds like to much of a rapid change in temp, but it may be largely contributing to it You didnt install an N1 water pump to the car? Trying to think outside the box because it sounds like youve tried doing everything right here

Got a clean today, Quick snap with my phone

Solid state relay I think just means it has no moving parts. It still works the same as a normal relay (in that it uses a smaller circuit to switch on a larger circuit) so it will work the same as a standard relay You need some sort of voltage amplifier, but I feel like it would be more effort than its worth. If you are worried about the fuel getting too hot by pumping it constantly, then just install a fuel cooler

It's one thing for water to fill up places, but its another thing to get an accurate reading. What you really need for accurate readings from water temp sensors (in fact any temp sensor) is flow past it. In the factory locating, the sensors get this. The problem with your idea that I can see is that the coolant will flow past the fitting and not really into it. Therefore it will get heat soaked and show false readings. Have a think about what I'm saying and it will make more sense.

Im looking at getting a Nismo gear knob and Nismo clear side indicators for my R33. Will get part numbers when i know if this group buy is going ahead

Has this group buy gone dead?

Eh, we will never know what was going through everyone's heads. I enjoyed seeing Dan send it down the inside. Didnt enjoy what followed however

Are you really going to tell us that the problem you were having was actually the self check the car does on startup?

Wow.......

Dan said he was racing for Jules. Not passing up any chance. Its a strange weekend for the drivers. Personally, I find it good that Dan wanted to put it all on the line, and after all, Red Bull have nothing to lose by taking risks and going for race wins. Homo back to being a sook when he's not winning the race. I found the race very entertaining, good to see some different people on the podium

Its way harder to steal jet's from the military base now. They have updated the AI for the planes that attack you when you steal one and get in the air. I used to be able to take off, do a back flip and they would give up. Now I have to take masses of evasive action and it generally doesn't work lol Havent tried stealing a tank

Put me down for 2 r33 gtst series 2 mats please

I would assume that because of the way the mat is, they would have to be shipped as they sit, which means it is taking up alot of space, so if you had bulk mats together then only the depth would change, and it wouldnt change much so the price wouldnt go up I had someone chasing one a while ago so ill ask them if they are still interested

This thread makes my head hurt

I doubt Nissan would ship them with something harmful left in them. Its really up to you though.

Where have you moved the temp sensor from and too Rob? The fact that youve played with the oil cooler and temp sensor makes me think either something is not right, or the temp sensor has moved from post cooler to pre-cooler

Oil filter moval kit? Removal? Relocation kit sounds like what you mean They come with instructions and its hardly rocket science. Did you try google or even the Greddy website?

That is pretty much it ^ I wouldnt think about it with new ones. Just a bit weird that they are so tight

As above You can easily test the IACV by putting 12V accross the coil. You should feel the solenoid click. If that happens, then likely it is O.K. Mechanically they can be disassembled, cleaned (they clog up with carbon) and put back together. Your only issue might be if a seal gets wrecked/is wrecked, but even then a replacement O-ring wont cost the world

To me, their are fairly decent jumps in the ignition cells as it jumps up from N01 to N02 and then N03. From memory my N01 and N02 cells were set at a number down to about L04 or L05, 20 degrees I think is what I had there. The Power FC does its own thing with timing at idle (has its own idle map that you cannot access), but I think I found that playing with these cells made my idle a little bit nicer It wouldnt hurt to try at this stage, just take photos of what you are changing (assuming that you dont have FC-edit and a Datalogit or FC-Hako) that way you can set it back to normal if it makes it worse I'm no tuner, so I'm not giving you a 'this is definitely the problem' answer, hopefully it is a helpful suggestion anyway. Fueling, its hard to say without a wideband, and I don't feel comfortable telling you to change your fueling without knowing what its at and where it is going. Shouldn't really make much of a difference at idle, but none the less

I havent had any issues with mine. There is oil pressure to keep them from compressing when the engine is running, and the idea of hydraulic lifters is to negate the need for valve adjustment/shimming by letting the lifter set the valve clearance. If they are tight, it is still unlikely to cause a problem, but for me I would much prefer them to compress and also to be able to create pressure within the lifter when covering the oil ports. Both of which I was able to do

Are they definitely brand new? Seems odd that new ones wont compress I soaked mine in fuel for a few days then compressed them using a vice (and some bits of wood to prevent damage) to get the old oil out then put them in a tub of new oil for a week or so then pumped them in the oil to get some new oil through them.