89CAL

Im interested in an R33 GTS-t S2 bonnet mat. Im pretty sure there is no difference between S1 and S2 because im pretty sure i used my old bonnet mat on my new S2 bonnet A bit of semi useful information

Im after the silver titanium gear knob PN: C2865-1EA02US

Need before race wars?

Can we get any NISMO gear knobs or just the ones pictured?

I was going to say fan hub but your comment that it cools down when idling normal has got me a bit confused But what exactly is the gauge (temp) doing when all this happens?

What ECU does it have? If the temperature drops when it returns to idle then it does sound like its going to an odd map in the tune for some reason.

I was always under the impression the top way was better. Mine is setup like this and works fine, especially seen as my external gate is small. Builds and holds boost fine

Ah sorry. For some reason i thought you said it was a drift car. Yeah if its a daily and you have a replacement lying around then for sure replace it. Ideally you want to replace the larger gear as well but it will probably be alright short time till you get the 25 box in. The back end of the gear looks pretty nasty, and if you can remove the shift fork and slide it off easy enough it would be good to change it as well especially if you have one of them spare also. Its been a while since ive played with a manual box. After rebuilding my 25 box, i wasnt really interested in playing with another one lol. Everythings a bit tight in them

Thats some pretty nasty damage. Is the box yours or have you bought it off someone? The idler gear is exactly what it sounds like, it is just a gear that simply spins on a shaft so instead of one gear driving another (which reverses direction of drive), it runs through an idler to reverse the direction a second time (so it runs forward essentially) If you can get the other gear stopping the idler from coming off without too much issue, id replace it. The wear pattern on the other gear is not ideal but if its only a short term thing it should be OK. Being that it is reverse and you wont use it too often, you would probably get away with it how it is, but if it were me I'd replace it either with new or good quality second hand. It looks pretty crap and i wouldnt normally suggest to run it, but if its only for a short time and running on a drift car, the worst that can happen is it blows anyway

If your fuel pump was the issue then you should see it on the wideband Can you plug into the Haltech and look at what its doing? Log a run when it plays up and look back over it

Where is the relocation kit? Being that it is not a standard setup its a bit hard to give advice without seeing what can used to assist I would have thought holding one of the fittings with one hand and turning the filter with the other might have worked, or getting a large shifter (or multigrips if you want to be a bit rougher) and grip the filter housing with that and turn the filter. If the filter is to tight you may need a filter strap or worst case scenario a large screwdriver can be punched through it and used to turn it. Post a photo of the filter relocation kit

The manual tells you to remove the starter and install a tool to hold the flywheel while removing the bolt, same for installation. Removal is easy, Installation isn't even so bad on RB25's. Torque is small compared to 26's (142-152Nm)

Pull it out and have a look what he has done. You may need to remove the speedo corrector, see if it works then. You may find he fried something inside when he wired up the speedo corrector. May have had the wrong speedo sensor in the box?

Too easy

Is your BOV return going anywhere? Im looking on my phone so the pictures dont come up great, but looks like it is either blanked or not going to the hardpipe Im happy to be wrong. Just looks a bit like that

This is great info for this thread (and for me)

I said i needed to force it in to get it in not that i actually forced it in I worked out it wasnt 1/8NPT then made a plan to get around this. So now i have the right fitting in the block to a braided line to an oil manifold for my sensors

It's never a bad idea as far as im concerned I know the thread in my block was BSP (as i had an NPT sensor that needed some force to screw it in). I'm not sure about the filter/oil cooler housing

Definetly ask these questions in the forced incuction section to. Theres not a site maintenance section at the bottom of the forum or anything

Looks an awful lot like a pro s to me

Up top there is an icon, looks like a book i think. Hover over it and it should say p/no search Press that

Referring to the car it appeared in? Lol I was gonna say KE24 but looks like that was a no go. Did they do rb30 skylines there?

The difference is in the thread length i think (BCP-BK) Ive used both. I get plugs from Nissan now as per recommendation from my tuner. Still NGK just a different number but cant remember what it is

Sard fuel regs are adjustable i think where the van line goes on. Its a weird setup but if im thinking of the same reg it is adjustable Your battery will drag down a little bit initially so should be fine once the pump gets up and going

You will probably just need to stick some gauges in. Its hard to say what restriction the -6 lines will create, but you have a graph there which tells you what L/hr at 'x' psi so you should be able to use the fuel reg to set that and check the flow of the pump (s) Sounds like you are on the right track anyway, the intank pump is easy for me if it has no real restriction, as long as it can keep up to demand it doesnt really matter, so test it as it would work in the car (I assume this is done easy enough by just making it run till it completely fills the surge tank, then work it out on size of fuel tank and time taken) As for the 2 external pumps, if they are run constantly and the return fuel measured over time it should give you combined flow of the pumps, im not 100% sure but deviding this number by 2 might give you individual pump flow (avg) As an experiment it would be good to do this then test both pumps indivudually and see if the numbers match up. Testing them individually is probably a better idea anyway so you can pinpoint the weak pump (if one of them is). Assuming that you have a decent enough fuel setup i assume you have an adjustable reg, so just set the pressure at whatever value you want to test as per graph. The only thing that might be an issue is keeping a constant 12v to the pump for accurate testing. Maybe might be easier to test it will connected to another running car and doing the test at 13.5v